Water Heater Electric Switch

[griff2k3]

I apologize in advance if this is one of the newbie questions I warned you about



On the right of the image there are two water heater switches, the lower, I assume is for lpg operation which works fine. However, the top switch (looks like a regular wall outlet, with one side being a switch, the other a light) is broken on my rig. I assume the upper one is for electrical operation as opposed to lpg.
I have looked for a specific replacement with no avail, However I notice lowes sells the switch (15a). I will try and link below.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-15-...witch/50171575

My question is, can I just replace my broken switch with the 15a from lowes? or is this a different amperage, and should I replace with a specific version? if so, can anyone tell me where to find the correct part as I have had no luck whatsoever.

I very seldom use lpg, and if I am going to be hooked up at a camp site, I would prefer to just use their free energy as opposed to my propane
Again, may be a very basic and "silly" question, but just trying to learn.

Thanks!

[CoachC]

This applies to my coach and may be different for yours.
The switch with the light is for the LPG segment of water heater. When switch is turned on light will illuminate while water heater is trying to light. Once when the light turns off I know the burner has lit.
The switch without the light activates the electric element in the water heater. Water heater uses very little LPG and I think is more efficient or at least faster heating the water. Occasionally when water use is high(shower), the red light indicating water heater ignition may illuminate briefly. That can happen also if you have both LPG and electric element switches in the "on" position.

Let us know when and how you get your switch operational.

Good luck!

Cheers

[griff2k3]

Originally Posted by CoachC

This applies to my coach and may be different for yours.
The switch with the light is for the LPG segment of water heater. When switch is turned on light will illuminate while water heater is trying to light. Once when the light turns off I know the burner has lit.
The switch without the light activates the electric element in the water heater. Water heater uses very little LPG and I think is more efficient or at least faster heating the water. Occasionally when water use is high(shower), the red light indicating water heater ignition may illuminate briefly. That can happen also if you have both LPG and electric element switches in the "on" position.

Let us know when and how you get your switch operational.

Good luck!

Cheers

Thanks for the input.

On mine, both switches have a light. I would assume the light on the electrical operation would simply tell me it is on. -- however, the problem is the actual switch is broken so I cannot change it from the off position.
I did turn the lpg on and use the other switch on my last (and first) trip. It appeared to function very well -- but for that, I have to be using propane.

I assume it is just a 15a switch, in which case, unless I hear differently, I will replace this weekend.. I will definitely let you know how it went

[cruzbill]

Yes, 15a switch, replace w/ Lowes you are good to go. Make sure the water heater is always full of water when you use the electric (120v) heating element. If empty, the element will burn out in short order.

[griff2k3]

Thanks Bill,

I'll change it out this weekend in time for my next trip scheduled for Thanksgiving, I had assumed that is all it was, but I've gotten into some precarious situations through assumptions before

[cruzbill]

Gobble, Gobble!!

["007"]

You do not change the switch there is nothing wrong with it, so hold on.

I see I have already given some links so down to business.

Your electric element is protected in water tank if there is no water in tank, there is a small black switch on the face of the water heater so the electric element will operate when you turn on the one in your over head display.

If that doesn't happen than someone turned on the 15 amp switch you want to change and burnt out the electric element with no water in HW tank.
So now you know how it works you just need to find out what the trouble is.

You need your Owners Guide for operations of items in your coach.

I know your excited with your Newmar but you need to slow down and allow people to answer your questions from Newmar owners also.

[palehorse89]

Originally Posted by griff2k3

I apologize in advance if this is one of the newbie questions I warned you about



On the right of the image there are two water heater switches, the lower, I assume is for lpg operation which works fine. However, the top switch (looks like a regular wall outlet, with one side being a switch, the other a light) is broken on my rig. I assume the upper one is for electrical operation as opposed to lpg.
I have looked for a specific replacement with no avail, However I notice lowes sells the switch (15a). I will try and link below.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-15-...witch/50171575

My question is, can I just replace my broken switch with the 15a from lowes? or is this a different amperage, and should I replace with a specific version? if so, can anyone tell me where to find the correct part as I have had no luck whatsoever.

I very seldom use lpg, and if I am going to be hooked up at a camp site, I would prefer to just use their free energy as opposed to my propane
Again, may be a very basic and "silly" question, but just trying to learn.

Thanks!

Just a quick search, Home Depot has one that will work https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-0WS/202035018
Lowes or most electrical stores will also have them.

[dennis45]

Are you certain the switch at the water heater is turned on?
Your assumption of the two switches at the panel are correct but, there is another switch located on the face of the heater. It is on the lower left.

[griff2k3]

Originally Posted by 007";3900798]You do not change the switch there is nothing wrong with it, so hold on.
But first welcome to the Newmar forum and irv2.
I see I have already given some links so down to business.
Your electric element is protected in water tank if there is no water in tank, there is a small black switch on the face of the water heater so the electric element will operate when you turn on the one in your over head display.
If that doesn't happen than someone turned on the 15 amp switch you want to change and burnt out the electric element with no water in HW tank.
So now you know how it works you just need to find out what the trouble is.

You need your [B][URL="https://comnet2.newmarcorp.com/instance1Env99NEWMAR/html/images/2002MACAOG.pdf

Owners Guide[/URL][/B] for operations of items in your coach.

I know your excited with your Newmar but you need to slow down and allow people to answer your questions from Newmar owners also.

My apologies, there may be a misunderstanding. My switch in my overhead display is definitely broken. And by broken, I mean its missing. There's s hole where the switch is supposed to be. So yes it definitely needs replacing.
Also, I apologise if I seem to be rushing but I had received an answer earlier and as I stated I plan on making the repair in almost a weeks time.
Sorry for the confusion

[dennis45]

Here is a photo of the location of the switch that isolates the electric heating element on the Suburban heater. It is there to protect the element from accidentally powering the element without having water in the heater.

If your heater is not working on 110V power, and this switch and the one on the panel inside are turned on, it is very possible the heating element is burned out. The usual cause is turning on the heater without the heater filled with water.
The Suburban Manual will explain how to remove the element for replacement if required. The element is a common part available at most stores like Home Depot etc.

Hope this helps.

[griff2k3]

Thank you Dennis,
This will be most helpful. Once I replace the switch inside and get it operable, this wpuod be the next thing to look at should it not begin working

Thanks again!

[dennis45]

Originally Posted by griff2k3

Thank you Dennis,
This will be most helpful. Once I replace the switch inside and get it operable, this wpuod be the next thing to look at should it not begin working

Thanks again!

Good luck. After messing with mine a couple years ago, I ended up replacing the original 10 gal with a new 12 gal from Amazon. The OD of these heaters are all the same. The only difference is the depth gets longer. The 12 gal fit like a glove.
Let me know if you have any questions.

["007"]

This is a good exercise good information here.
Griff if your going to be taking showers in coach you may want both options working, LP & electric for a good hot shower, quick recovery.