Water Inlet Connection Change?

[Romeo]

Well I have searched and cannot find an answer.

Has anyone changed the water inlet connections (fresh and tank flush) to a more substantial metal/brass connection?

The existing plastic connections cannot be tightened enough to avoid leaking. I'm tired of flooding the water works cabinet when filling or flushing.

[ddw1949]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Romeo Well I have searched and cannot find an answer. Has anyone changed the water inlet connections (fresh and tank flush) to a more substantial metal/brass connection? The existing plastic connections cannot be tightened enough to avoid leaking. I'm tired of flooding the water works cabinet when filling or flushing.

I know what you mean Romeo, I have the same problem. I did however screw in a 90 degree angle brass fitting then connected the hose and it seems to help. Be interested in hearing other responses.

ddw1949
2009 Newmar Canyon Star

["007"]

There is any number of fittings at Lowe's or Home Depot that could be made up both plastic and brass.
Would just have to get right combination to fit through existing hole and a pressure crimp connection for plastic pipe. Try to leave as much exposed pipe as possible when cutting out old fittings.

[mbisson]

You're right. My flush connection leaks very badly and has even popped off and soaked everything. I will be watching this thread. Post up your solution when you find one.

[clubmed98]

I had same issues but i did not replace fittings...i pipe doped in a 1-2 foot length of hose for each fitting..I then put a shut off on the ends so they will not drip into the bay when not in use..this also solves the water coming out from the original fitting when you remove a hose as the extensions are long enough to be out side the box and drip on the ground..

[Romeo]

I have had the hose pop out of the plastic threads also. If you overtighten to stop the leak, the metal threads pull out of the plastic threads.

I thought I had a solution by installing brass quick-connects last year when winterizing, but found out yesterday, while de-winterizing, that the quick disconnect installed on the coach connection still leaks... cant get it tight enough.

007... yes I know there are parts available, but am wondering why the mfg used plastic that would never work very well instead of metal. Would there be problems in mounting, anchoring or connecting to the existing tubing? Do I need to completely remove the "backboard" to do the switch over? It looks like would have to, and that looks like a major task... there is a lot of stuff attached to the backboard. Is there another methos short of going with metal fittings?

Omey should know the answer to all this.. but I dont see where he has done it.

["007"]

Every Newmar I have owned has had the plastic fittings, why cost I would say.
I had striped out one on my first and removed and placed a tuffed fitting seemed stronger than plastic from HD.
I now use the quick connect for hose in new coach,7 yrs, which you have tried but you can't over tighten.
Here is a link that may help you many fittings and fix's for RV's and all.
Give this link a try for parts.

[Norm4015]

When this latest Dutch Star was four months old I was at Newmar for warranty work. One of my complaints was one of those cheap plastic things was leaking. The technician said he didn't know why they installed those cheap connections over in the plant because everybody came back to warranty to get them replaced. When he returned my motorhome it had two new brass fittings and they have never leaked since then.

[Romeo]

I discovered something today that may be a part of the problem. I removed the quick disconnect on the fresh water connection and noticed that the rubber washer was set pretty deep in the connection. I looked at the quick disconnect male thread and noticed that it didnt have many male threads... not as many as a male hose end. With the quick disconnect, the male threads are less (shorter) because there is a "shoulder" at the end of the threads so that one will have a section to grasp and turn to screw in the quick disconnect.

It appears that with the shorter threads on the quick disconnect will not allow the quick disconnect to seat on the rubber washer. When I screw it in I dont feel it tightening against the washer.

The flush connection is different. I can definitely feel it bottem'ng out against the washer, and one can see that with it tight some threads are still exposed.

So... I am going to try a second washer on the fresh water connection and see if that stops most of the leakage. Since the rain stopped, I am going out to try it now. Maybe the quick disconnect will work as I intended it.

BTW... for those that havent done this, the reason I went to a quick disconnect was so that I could make a good tight connection and leave it so that I wouldnt be fighting to get a tight connection each time I hooked up to water.

(HI Norm, I see that your viewing the thread)

[Romeo]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Romeo So... I am going to try a second washer on the fresh water connection and see if that stops most of the leakage.

Installed a second washer and that pretty much stopped the leak. Just have a drip where the hose attaches to the quick dis-connect. That will be resolved with a new washer and a tight connection between hose and quick dis-connect.