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Old 02-12-2007, 02:58 AM   #1
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I've noticed that my water volume is MUCH greater when on the pump vs campsite...about 33-50%...even at 60 psi from the site. I presume this is because of my yet unchanged house filter...coach has 5K miles on it.
I was going to test by removing the filter and use the empty housing, but not sure how to take off...I have the wrench but housing seems tight and didnt want to force it...does it unscrew counterclockwise? What is the risk of NOT using a house filter if it kills the flow so badly?
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Old 02-12-2007, 02:58 AM   #2
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I've noticed that my water volume is MUCH greater when on the pump vs campsite...about 33-50%...even at 60 psi from the site. I presume this is because of my yet unchanged house filter...coach has 5K miles on it.
I was going to test by removing the filter and use the empty housing, but not sure how to take off...I have the wrench but housing seems tight and didnt want to force it...does it unscrew counterclockwise? What is the risk of NOT using a house filter if it kills the flow so badly?
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Old 02-12-2007, 03:25 AM   #3
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A house filter that is 5 micron can reduce water pressure by 5 - 10 lbs. I have exactly the same issue.

I put a controllable pressure valve on the hose so I always have 55 - 60 lbs going to coach. i.e. I can set it to the pressure I want.

I haven't done it yet but, what I'm going to do is mount that valve on the other side of the filter. That will allow me to get maximum pressure to coach w/o the risk of too much.

However, the pump may still be stronger. Many on this forum have reported it. I even asked Newmar and their only explanation is the filter. However, While at Newmar this past week, I didn't have a filter in the housing and pressure was OK but, still better w/the pump.

It makes me wonder if there isn't a spot where the source water goes through 1/2" or 3/8" line and that causes a bottle neck.
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Old 02-12-2007, 03:27 AM   #4
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I've noticed the same on my coach. I believe there may be a pressure reducing valve before the tank. Therefore taking removing the filter may not provide a substantial increase in pressure, I always use the pump and don't worry about it...much better flow and pressure with the pump.

The filter housing unscrews counter clockwise. Use the filter wrench provided with the coach. I removed my filter when I winterized...Had 12k miles on the Unit and filter still looks good. I plan to re-install the same filter if I have any difficulty in obtaining a new one.

Good Luck!

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Old 02-12-2007, 03:45 AM   #5
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Hi Larry,

With all the folks that travel with us we use a lot of water and the water filter needed to be changed 3 times in 2006. I guage how often to change the filter by when I get complaints about water pressure. With a new filter the water pressure is the same as with the pump.

Make sure you have all the pressure from the coach and shore water system removed completely. If there is any water pressure, in your coach, the filter is impossible to get off. Turn the HWH off and open hot and cold water valves to remove the pressure. The wrench supplied with the coach should be able to remove the filter. The first time can bruse your nuckles. It is a right handed thread so make sure you are turning it the correct way. If the filter casing is mounted under its receptical, circle the wrench around the back on the right side. Looking from the top, the filter casing needs to be turned clockwise. Looking from the bottom the casing needs to be turned counter clockwise. When tightening, I hand tighten only.

My coach takes a #6 (MAXVOC-975RV) Flo Pur filter. From the dealer or Newmar the filters are expensive, about $35/each. Go to Flo Pur water filters and they are considerably less expensive.

Last month, I made a by pass that allows me to put water in the tank or directly into the coach bypassing the filter. When I am filling the tank or using water from a known safe water source, I bypass the filter.

My unscientific view of why the filter clogs so quickly is that is takes out many of the things I would like to keep in the water. Just about all the additives used by city water systems are removed by the filter. Running a large amount of gallons of water through the coach and the filter quickly becomes clogged.
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Old 02-12-2007, 03:46 AM   #6
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Thanks SX, forgot to mention how to remove the filter housing.

Regarding timing of changing the filter. I used to install softeners in houses during my college days. I learned a lot about water treatment.

If you use a carbon filter and leave it in too long it can actually help create bacteria. So even if you only use it sparingly volume wise, you should change every 3 months at the minimum.

Carbon filters (taste, smell & sediment) are generally black and are 5 - 10 micron. This is vs. a sediment filter which is usually white and go from 5 - 20 micron.
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Old 02-12-2007, 04:11 AM   #7
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I have a 1 hose hook up. I use a Omini Whole House filter, a Watts house water regulator after the the filter and a Watts 5 stage RO system under the sink. I also remove the check valve from the city water tap. But, this requires me to plug the inlet hose so I can use the pump when I am not attached to city water. My black water flush is also hooked in to the system with a house anti back flow preventer. I have shut off and quick disconnects so I can do maintenance easily. I don't generally have a water pressure problem.



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Old 02-12-2007, 04:24 AM   #8
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Gary, with your water fill bypass do you still have to turn off the house water when filling the tank? Does it fill faster than when going thru the filter? Thanks, Dave
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Old 02-12-2007, 04:24 AM   #9
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I have complained to Newmar about my low preasure since I have owned my fiver. They looked at it las Feb at the factory and said it was ok. Just this trip last month I was checking out the hookup and saw a small screen at the point of hookup. I removed the screen and my preasure and volume jumped up big time. I am pleased now considering the filter is dropping it some for sure.

JMHO

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Old 02-12-2007, 05:22 AM   #10
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Dav5942:
Gary, with your water fill bypass do you still have to turn off the house water when filling the tank? Does it fill faster than when going thru the filter? Thanks, Dave </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hi Dave,
When filling the tank I continue to use the factory installed lever (tank fill or coach). This means there is no water pressure in the coach when filling the tank. The tank fills much faster. My guess is twice as fast when not going through the filter.
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Old 02-12-2007, 06:17 AM   #11
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We had the same issue with our 04 Essex. On our PDI the tech told us we had an "extra filter cartridge". After a couple of months I opened the filter housing and to my suprise no filter. So I installed the filter and then notice the water pressure/water flow descreased. I addressed the issue with my dealer and they said it was "normal and we could run without a filter if we wanted". My family wasn't too pleased with their answer. So I looked around and found a less restrictive filter. We had an extra filter for drinking water and the icemaker. I was mainly concerned with sand and sediment. That seemed ok and my bandaid for the problem. Some filter is better than no filter at all.
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Old 02-12-2007, 06:43 AM   #12
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Just took out the filter(new)-much better pressure-but still not as much as the 5.7 GPH pump.
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Old 02-12-2007, 07:12 AM   #13
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Hmmmm 5.7 GPH...are you distilling that water?
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Old 02-12-2007, 07:14 AM   #14
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Guys, I looked at Newmars filter setup when I ordered my coach in 04. For what they wanted I did the DIY thing, saved money and have great water pressure. My 5 micron filters cost about $9 for a package of 2. I change my filter every 3 months or when the filter looks dirty.

Do to the fact that the Watts regulator is AFTER the filter I get full city pressure to the filter. I have my outside regulator set to 80 psi and the coach regulator to 55 psi.
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