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PalmerAlaska · 09-10-2015, 12:33 PM

I've been searching this and other forums for instructions on how to winterize my 04 Mt Aire gasser. A couple of questions, first off, exactly where is the on board water pump, and is there an inlet valve/hose to suck anti freeze out of a container and into the system, if so where is it? Also, I need instructions specific to my RV regarding winterizing the washer (Splendide 2000S) and ice maker. (Refer is a Dometic RV type, not residential) The only info I could come up with is pretty general and non-specific. I removed the outside access panel for the refrigerator looking for ice maker water connections and found nothing that looked even close to water connections. The whole process can't be all that complicated as the RV dealer's service department only wants $185.00 to winterize it in the fall and that includes de-winterizing it in the spring. That may sound like a lot to some folks but it isn't really all that bad for Alaska. In any event, I believe it's something that I am well capable of accomplishing, with a little bit of dual instruction and/or advice. Thanks!!

GaryKD · 09-10-2015, 03:48 PM

Hi PalmerAlaska,
The water pump should be located in the utility bay. When looking at the bay, it will be on the left (toward the front) wall, very low to the floor and back behind the main panel that has all the knobs and levers. One will need to get on hands and knees to see it. There should be a winterization plastic tube on the left side of the utility bay. There should also be a couple of levers to turn. The levers are so RV antifreeze will be sucked into the plumbing lines by-passing the water heater. A sign should be on the left wall outlining the procedure.

"007" · 09-10-2015, 08:30 PM

Yes the snow maybe creeping across the mountain tops near Anchorage, by this time of year.
A link to winterizing.

PalmerAlaska · 09-12-2015, 12:08 PM

GaryKD, thanks for the reply and info, you are spot on! Sorry for the delay in responding, been busy with other projects, plus it's been raining like crazy and I couldn't get real enthused about climbing around on the wet gravel where the RV is parked. I was looking in the wrong bay, sure enough as soon as I looked where you said to look I found the water pump, the winterization tube and valves. Haven't seen the instructions just yet but as I said, it's pouring rain and I just took a quick look. I also found the solenoid for the ice maker, so I think I'm going to give it a shot. I'm a little nervous about doing it myself as this will be the first time, but the overall task doesn't seem too complicated. I'll probably overkill as I plan to use air to blow out the lines first and then use the pink stuff but I'd rather take a little more time and be sure then to sit here all winter and worry that I didn't do enough. Again, thanks a bunch for your help. 007, you're right about the snow creeping over the mountains in Anchorage, I live about 45 miles northeast of Anchorage but lived there for 48 years before moving out to the Valley 12 or so years ago. It's coming.

"007" · 09-12-2015, 03:46 PM

One added note if you have a whole house filter remove filter naturally but between that and your water fill hose connection you will have about 1' of pipe that needs to be blown out so water is removed from that piece of pipe.
You have to push in the tab with end of pencil eraser after removing the screen washer and just gently push in tab so water flashes back or anti freeze when pumping into water system.
If water left in there pipe could split during freeze.
The ice maker I would blow out water in line feeding ice maker after disconnect from valve behind fridge and leave disconnected. Use paper towels or sponge to remove any water in ice maker tray.
Remember to close water line valve into fresh water tank.

PalmerAlaska · 09-13-2015, 08:05 PM

007,thanks, I hadn't even thought of that. I had originally intended to suck the anti freeze through the city water connection which would have automatically flushed out any water and replaced it with the pink stuff. Now that i have located the winterization tube to suck the anti freeze into the system I won't be using the city water connection, so indeed it will need to be winterized. I do have another question for you or GaryKD, I just came in from looking over the bays and system pretty thoroughly and couldn't find the winterization instructions that GaryKD referred to. What I did find is the water pump and two valves, one is to suck the anti freeze in through the plastic tube and the other is obviously to suck water from the

Old Scout · 09-13-2015, 08:08 PM

IF I were you I would "re-locate" the water pump to Tx, Fl or Az for the winter [smile].

PalmerAlaska · 09-13-2015, 08:15 PM

Old Scout, I'm beginning to think you have the right idea....!

PalmerAlaska · 09-13-2015, 08:19 PM

007, don't know what happened to the rest of my post, but what I was trying to say is that the other valve is obviously to isolate the fresh water tank from the anti freeze as I suck it into the system. What about the fresh water line that runs from the water pump to the fresh water tank and also the black water flush inlet that's located on the panel with the city water/fresh water fill connection?

"007" · 09-14-2015, 03:29 PM

When I drained the fresh water tank all water in its line from pump drained out, than I close valve to fresh water tank for filling it.
The black tank flush for cleaning drains back to the hose input on panel I had two black water tanks for bath & 1/2 coach.
I had split fresh water tanks and any water left in bottom of tanks did not cause a problem.
Use your bypass valves for water heater, they turn in opposite direction from summer use and drain the HW tank leave anon rod out of tank.
Do not forget to turn 110 switch on face of WH so electric element will not be energized from switch inside on your display panel causing you a burnt out element with no water in tank.