Water Regulator Install

[Dutch Star Don]

I like having an adjustable water regulator so that I can set it to get maximum pressure when available (set at 65 psi). I looked all over the place on my Dutch Star, but did not see a regulator. I know some say it doesn't need one, but I prefer to have one. There is a 6" long brass inline unit near the hose reel that I finally identified today as a "SharkBite" brand backflow valve.

I bought a Watts Adjustable 263A-LF Regulator, 0-160 gauge, 4-4.5 gpm, and installed it where the backflow valve was located. I retained the backflow valve because I'm guessing it's code on new motor homes.

The other reason for the install was I wanted to gain another water spigot that I could use to flush the black tank without connecting another hose while I was already connected with the power hose real. I had removed the plastic faucet and shower hose and replaced it with just a hot and cold spigot like others have done. My initial plan was to use that cold side spigot to connect to the flush tank. The problem was.....the water coming out of that spigot was running through the water filter, at least on the Dutch Stars.

I know some have created a bypass of the water filter, but I was fine with everything else running through it, just not flush water.

Here is what the bay looked like before, with the backflow valve centered in the image:




Here is a photo of the Watts regulator installed. I used a "T" to add the second line which is a 5/8" hose that runs over to the new spigot. I was going to use PVC, but the connections worked better with just the flexible hose.



Here is a photo of the new spigot. The extra pvc pieces stubbed off the pvc pipe was used to create an area to hold the spigot down/secure.



The short hose has a quick connect along with a quick connect on the flush valve. It's connected in the photo, but is not left connected when not in use. This spigot also gives you a water line that can be used with a garden hose and the water is not going through the water filter.

["007"]

Well you know where this is going, will be added.

[slabman]

Well, another job well don, Don. You're probably correct on assuming the anti-siphon is required on new RV's. What's next? :-)
I assume you got the regulator from the Water Filter Store? Did that mounting bracket come with it?

[Tom-NC]

Hi,
Your installation looks great however there is one big problem and that is the regulator should be at the campground bib and not in the motorhome.

Say the campground pressure was very high, lie a 100 lbs and you set regulator for 50 lbs(which is normal) that your hose from bib to regulator has to do something with the other 50 lbs like maybe break. I would install your regulator in a plastic box of some type and use a short piece of hose between it and bib and then connect your regular hose to it and the coach.

As far as using a "T" type of configuration between waterfill and flush connection, I wouldn't do that either in case check valve were to go bad then sewage in fresh water. Or say you forgot to turn valve off and tank overfilled leaving raw sewage in your tank. I use a separate hose connected to a "y" at the bib to flush the tank and it is no big deal.

Now these are just my suggestions and what I do.

Good Luck!

[jlfbatonrg]

Don,

Good job. I did something similar to your set up, but use valving ahead of the Watts regulator to provide for flushing of the black and gray water tanks, or second garden hose. BTW, in four years of travel with this arrangement in all kinds of RV Parks, some with reported high (115 psi) water pressure. we have never had a burst hose or suffered any problems.

[Freestyle21]

Very nice work Don.

[spinn]

Very nicely done Don.

[jimmyjnr]

Nice job , I also fitted a watts regulator from the filter store in our coach wet bay , also bought a new water hose that can take 100+ psi ,

[JFXG]

Nicely done, Don! A neat job.

I too keep my regulator in the wet bay, but do a quick max pressure check at each hookup. I occasionally find 75-80lbs, but that won't bother a good hose, and to date I haven't had any problems. I set the coach at 50-55lbs.

I use a dual cartridge filter with a bypass, and I tap my short flush hose (and utility hose) from a wye at the entry point, just before the regulator. The quick connects on all my hoses are arranged such that it is impossible to connect the utility or flush hose to the potable water connections, and vice versa.

Your install is a great deal neater than mine!

[Dutch Star Don]

Tom-NC.....I appreciate your points, but the purpose of anything I do is to simplify life, making the RV experience easier. Mounting the regulator at the hose bib is a hassle and becomes a theft issue. Not having to connect another hose was also the point of this modification. It becomes another item you have to roll up and put away. I like my TV and have been known on occasion to move the coach several times to get the satellite a clear shot. Making connections easier are important. I also use a SaniCon so there is no 3" hose to deal with.

With the Glendinning water hose reel, the hose on the reel is rated at 150 psi (printed right on the hose and in their literature). About once a year we'll visit a campground that they tell us the pressure is over 100 psi. On those rare occasions, I throw a cheap screw on regulator onto the hose bib, just in case.

In regards to the flush out, I purposely stated that I ONLY connect the hose when I'm flushing the tank. It was attached in the picture for purposes of seeing where I use it. I use a quick connect to make it easy to disconnect from the flush unit. My Monaco actually had a backflow valve on the flush unit, but every time you removed the hose it soaked you, spitting back water. I believe I can manage this connection without a backflow valve.

Actually, in the case of the motor home, I wonder why they require a backflow device. When installed on your house, it's to protect the house water from contaminants coming back through the hose while using things like garden sprayers. Are they concerned that a motor home will backflow into the shore connection?

[Tomtall]

Would not the back flow valve help prevent your in house plumbing from draining back out your feed when disconnected? Just a thought why they put it in the system. Nice install by the way.

[bruceisla]

Originally Posted by Tomtall

Would not the back flow valve help prevent your in house plumbing from draining back out your feed when disconnected? Just a thought why they put it in the system. Nice install by the way.

Yeah ... mine (check valve) is inside my 3-way valve assembly.

[parda03]

This is a great thread! I have water pressure issues when i hook up at the Campground. I saw a few other threads that said to remove the factory installed regulator and install one like you have here. Where is the factory installed regulator generally? I have a 2004 Winnebago Vectra diesel Pusher and it has the same hose reel shown here. Do I need to take the hose reel out to find it?

[Woodchopper]

Originally Posted by Tom-NC

Say the campground pressure was very high, lie a 100 lbs and you set regulator for 50 lbs(which is normal) that your hose from bib to regulator has to do something with the other 50 lbs like maybe break.
I would install your regulator in a plastic box of some type and use a short piece of hose between it and bib and then connect your regular hose to it and the coach.

Tom-NC
Doesn't that leave the "short piece of hose", (between the bib and the regulator), unprotected from high campground water pressure?