Community Forums

vettenuts · 05-31-2018, 09:06 AM

Found my vacuum break valve under the vanity has been leaking a bit. Found the below brass vacuum break valve. Wondering if anyone has used this as a replacement. It is also rebuildable.

https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Technol...ZCJ05ESXB7KA93

Stuart W · 05-31-2018, 09:09 AM

Following

ghaynes754 · 05-31-2018, 09:19 AM

Personal opinion as I just went down this rabbit hole. While the Watts is a great unit if you check your installed back flow you will find that it has a spring loaded seal on the out flow side that stays closed unless there is flow pressure against it from incoming water flow. This spring valve seals it so that you don't get the smell from the black tank in the coach.

The Watts will seal with a back flow condition but the valve just sits there not sealing against black gas.

There have been at least two type of backflips. One is a round, clear one from Camco. The other a black somewhat square unit from J&R or similar. When I got my new J&R to check it I simply blew into the outflow side. Old one leaked air, new one was solidly blocked. Blow into the inflow side and the valve opens.

Bob_C · 05-31-2018, 09:50 AM

When mine started leak'n, I went to the man store and bought a brass double flap whole house type, cut the hose just inside the wall, installed new one, and did away with all that hose going into the vanity.....been work'n good now for 5 years and it does get used..

vettenuts · 05-31-2018, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghaynes754

Personal opinion as I just went down this rabbit hole. While the Watts is a great unit if you check your installed back flow you will find that it has a spring loaded seal on the out flow side that stays closed unless there is flow pressure against it from incoming water flow. This spring valve seals it so that you don't get the smell from the black tank in the coach.

The Watts will seal with a back flow condition but the valve just sits there not sealing against black gas.

There have been at least two type of backflips. One is a round, clear one from Camco. The other a black somewhat square unit from J&R or similar. When I got my new J&R to check it I simply blew into the outflow side. Old one leaked air, new one was solidly blocked. Blow into the inflow side and the valve opens.

Thanks for the response, but not sure I completely follow. I think you are saying the Watts will stop back-flow of water but is not designed like the currently installed valve and will allow gas from the Black tank into the coach?

vettenuts · 05-31-2018, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bob caldwell

When mine started leak'n, I went to the man store and bought a brass double flap whole house type, cut the hose just inside the wall, installed new one, and did away with all that hose going into the vanity.....been work'n good now for 5 years and it does get used..

Do you have more information on this valve?

Bob_C · 05-31-2018, 04:17 PM

Not any more....got it from Home Depot.....

Bob_C · 05-31-2018, 04:18 PM

Also had to buy 2 screw in hose nipples....

Bob_C · 05-31-2018, 04:27 PM

Found it where they keep house style water filters

vettenuts · 05-31-2018, 04:27 PM

OK, after further research and looking at the clear plastic model from Valtera, you can see a check valve on the water outlet side to prevent gas coming back. I found this on an Outback forum, where the poster used the Watts 288 vacuum breaker with a check valve on the water outlet to prevent gas coming into the RV.

I used a 1/2" WATTS 288A Brass Vacuum Break Valve with a 1/2" CAMCO 23303 Brass Check Valve to replace the Plastic Vacuum Break valve that is used with the Black Tank Flush System. Good Luck.

http://www.outbackers.com/forums/upl..._1850_3421.jpg

ghaynes754 · 05-31-2018, 08:22 PM

Vettenuts, correct regular Watts won’t stop the gas. Replacement J&R can be found for about $15.

vettenuts · 06-01-2018, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghaynes754

Vettenuts, correct regular Watts won’t stop the gas. Replacement J&R can be found for about $15.

Thanks for pointing out the gas issue. I suspected that might be the case but couldn’t find enough information to sort it out.

I think the setup I posted in the photo above, with the additional check valve on the outlet, should resolve the gas issue. When I get home from this trip I am going to roll the dice and buy the Watts and check valve to bench test it. If it works, it should be better than the plastic ones.

Interestingly, even the Watts has a warning about installation in a location that won’t cause damage should leakage occur similar to the plastic RV specific units.

vettenuts · 06-19-2018, 04:34 PM

Wanted to follow up for future reference. I did get the Watts LF288A vacuum breaker along with a 1/2 MPT coupler and a 1/2 Valtera check valve for the outer side (looks similar to the photo in post #10 when assembled). No black gas smell because the Valtera check valve stops it. Now just have to check for water leaks.

FatChance · 06-19-2018, 05:26 PM

If something really goes wrong and your black tank pressurizes (it happens), you will have a flutter valve in the vacuum break between the backflow preventer and the black tank. It probably would be OK, but why not put the backflow preventer between the vacuum break and the black tank (i.e. screw the backflow preventer into the vacuum break input instead of output)?