Wet Bay Door Won't Open

[redbaron73]

Originally Posted by CaptainGizmo

Tdenator, ask RB about the fix for that loose pivot. I think that’s what you’re referring to.

As for the heads, NO..those are not square. Those are basically a TORX head. DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN A TORX DRIVER...you will pay the price!! Those for very common in the auto industry for just these types of applications; locks, pins, hinges, etc.

Here is the thread CaptainGizmo was referencing:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/bay-...ir-451644.html

[CaptainGizmo]

Originally Posted by tnedator

Thanks. I didn't find a Torx that fit right, but maybe I was just missing the correct one.

Well, I kinda made a mistake, now that I’m home and see the photos bigger. TORX are 6-points, whereas these have 8, so that’s why you couldn’t find the right bit.

Looks like yet another special tool for us to have...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/FastenMa...-2PK/202268260

[tnedator]

Originally Posted by CaptainGizmo

Well, I kinda made a mistake, now that I’m home and see the photos bigger. TORX are 6-points, whereas these have 8, so that’s why you couldn’t find the right bit.

Looks like yet another special tool for us to have...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/FastenMa...-2PK/202268260

Thanks. I'll pick that up. I hadn't seen these HeadLok screws before, so I was at a loss for what it was.

[tnedator]

Any consensus on what extra cable stay to mount to make sure the cable doesn't come loose?

I've see people using screw types, other crimp types.

[tnedator]

Originally Posted by redbaron73

Here is the thread CaptainGizmo was referencing:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/bay-...ir-451644.html

Thanks, that helps a lot.

I'm hoping Newmar gives me a new latch, since I think this was caused by a repair of a misaligned door, plus I'm only about 10 days out of warranty. If not, I'll do you bolt fix.

Sounds like I need to adjust the U striker pin on that door, and there are a couple others almost as hard to close, so I'll work my way around and adjust them all.

[CaptainGizmo]

Originally Posted by tnedator

Any consensus on what extra cable stay to mount to make sure the cable doesn't come loose?

I've see people using screw types, other crimp types.

“Consenus”? Here? SURELY, you jest! LOL

But, if you want the BEST way, I’ll tell you what I did. Double-LOL!! Then, everyone else can jump in and tell you their best way.

Seriously, let me give you my logic, and perhaps if you agree, then you’ll do what I did.

I’m using a M1 (1mm) SINGLE BARREL CRIMP SLEEVE. I got the best price/qty on eBay (see below). These are EXACTLY the “just right” size with an 1.2mm I.D. and look like they should have been there all along. I use these, rather than bicycle cable ends or electrical crimps because they are MUCH thinner and will NOT hold onto the cable nearly as secure.

Now, if the end is frayed or smashed, you’re gonna have a hard-if not impossible-time getting the sleeve onto the cable.

I use a standard electrical crimped and it does a perfect job.

You could get a 1.2mm sleeve and be in safer shape, if you want. But, with the sleeve, IF you were to ever need to remove the cable, then the cable would need to be cut. If this is something you’d worry about, then just have a spare cable.

The screw-down cable locks, like Neal showed, are bulkier and subject to the same possibility of loosening due to the cable smashing down over time; as Stuart referenced.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F312530440159

[CaptainGizmo]

Done!

Access hole drilled.
Clamps tightened.
1mm single barrel crimps added.




Now what can go wrong? [emoji51]

[redbaron73]

Originally Posted by CaptainGizmo

Done!

Now what can go wrong? [emoji51]

The electric bay up front below driver seat, the wetbay, the pegboard bay, or the electric spool bay.

Besides that...you should be ok

[CaptainGizmo]

Originally Posted by redbaron73

The electric bay up front below driver seat, the wetbay, the pegboard bay, or the electric spool bay.

Besides that...you should be ok

"HEY, GARMIN...NAVIGATE ME TO THE NEAREST CLIFF"

[Akdare]

Does anyone know if this design has been changed in the 2020’s? Or do I this fix to look forward to when I get my coach?

[Dutch Star Don]

"tnedator"....I apologize that I led you astray on the baggage latch screws. I hadn't gone that deep into tightening those. We've been gone for three weeks and I just revisited this post.


"Akdare"....In regards to the latch itself, there is nothing wrong with the design. A few people out of hundred thousand latches had one come loose. If you just tighten them, I'm sure you will NEVER have an issue. Some of us more anal types added a clamp.

[Akdare]

Well, I fall into the anal camp...ooh, that just sounded wrong.

I will be tightening and clamping when I get mine... that sounded wrong, too...

[CaptainGizmo]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

A few people out of hundred thousand latches had one come loose. If you just tighten them, I'm sure you will NEVER have an issue. Some of us more anal types added a clamp.

And, take it from one of the “few”...

TIGHTEN THE CRAP OUTTA THEM SCREWS!!

Despite two of us, we didn’t get it tight enough the first time!

[Captain Slow]

Originally Posted by CaptainGizmo

Well, I kinda made a mistake, now that I’m home and see the photos bigger. TORX are 6-points, whereas these have 8, so that’s why you couldn’t find the right bit.

Looks like yet another special tool for us to have...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/FastenMa...-2PK/202268260

I finally found the right bit to remove the eight point screws that look like a six point Torx. I did buy a Headlock driver bit at Home Depot but that was not the correct bit.

The correct bit is a "Double Square Bit". A standard #2 square bit will work but you could strip out the slots because you are only placing pressure on 1/2 of the points and those points are smaller that a six point bit.

The correct bit can be found on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D8SXQZ4...v_ov_lig_dp_it

I found one of my latch screws was obviously installed with a square bit because it had been stretched so only a square bit would fit the screw not a "Double Square Bit" that it was designed to be installed by.