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Old 02-05-2019, 07:25 PM   #29
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This has been my tried and true for most all plumbing fittings.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RectorSe...1630/203490732
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Old 02-05-2019, 08:32 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrPhil View Post
Tom - Noticing your water softener controls on your panel. I think I may have seen a comment or two from you about the physical softener placement near the oasis/distribution module, but have you written up any details on your installation?
DrPhil, the water softener valves shown on the wet bay photos in my post above are 3 way valves that allow me to either utilize the water softener or bypass it going back to Newmar's original piping configuration. That's useful when I don't want or need to utilize the softener, when I'm sanitizing the system piping and tanks, or when I am filling the fresh water tank with soft water when I am at home.

I attached a couple of PDF files that show how my system is piped. Since we don't boondock I never installed solar, so I permanently installed the water softener in the driver's side storage bay next to the battery compartment. I ran (2) 3/4" Pex pipes from the wet bay to the water softener to interconnect. Let me know if you want any additional information and I will organize it and post it in a new thread.

Tom
Attached Files
File Type: pdf WS Normal Operation 6-2018.pdf (99.5 KB, 157 views)
File Type: pdf Piping Diagram - Backwash and Regen Modes.pdf (149.5 KB, 138 views)
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Old 02-05-2019, 09:27 PM   #31
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Both Neal and FTHarris-very remarkable work and endeavors. I have made some efforts toward a perm mounted water softner but am not there yet. I would love to see pics of your set up. Neal-your ballzy stab at the water bay is awesome. If you ever need a second pair of hands I will gladly drive the short distance from Yorktown to help and pick your brain.
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Old 02-06-2019, 03:10 AM   #32
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Wet bay panel removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by NealC View Post
...Also potential smart phone operations of your dumping....

Smart phone dumping...
Hmmm...
If Robin Williams we’re alive, this would make it into the ‘RV’ sequel!
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Old 02-06-2019, 04:19 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ftharrisiii View Post
DrPhil, the water softener valves shown on the wet bay photos in my post above are 3 way valves that allow me to either utilize the water softener or bypass it going back to Newmar's original piping configuration. That's useful when I don't want or need to utilize the softener, when I'm sanitizing the system piping and tanks, or when I am filling the fresh water tank with soft water when I am at home.

I attached a couple of PDF files that show how my system is piped. Since we don't boondock I never installed solar, so I permanently installed the water softener in the driver's side storage bay next to the battery compartment. I ran (2) 3/4" Pex pipes from the wet bay to the water softener to interconnect. Let me know if you want any additional information and I will organize it and post it in a new thread.

Tom
Tom thanks for the info, I have been looking to plumb my On-The-Go softener in and keep it in the bay next to the oasis. I was also looking at adding a double water filter in that bay also, did you add any additional water filters?
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Old 02-06-2019, 04:37 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ftharrisiii View Post
DrPhil, the water softener valves shown on the wet bay photos in my post above are 3 way valves that allow me to either utilize the water softener or bypass it going back to Newmar's original piping configuration. That's useful when I don't want or need to utilize the softener, when I'm sanitizing the system piping and tanks, or when I am filling the fresh water tank with soft water when I am at home.

I attached a couple of PDF files that show how my system is piped. Since we don't boondock I never installed solar, so I permanently installed the water softener in the driver's side storage bay next to the battery compartment. I ran (2) 3/4" Pex pipes from the wet bay to the water softener to interconnect. Let me know if you want any additional information and I will organize it and post it in a new thread.

Tom
Tom - The PDF's are great - first I've seen of anything this detailed! I did have a few additional questions if you don't mind. 1) Where do you put the salt for softener regeneration - the water filter canister? 2) How did you plumb the softener waste water into the waste stream (gray, black, neither?). 3) I presume the other valves shown in the softener diagrams along with the compressed air/alternate inlet and pressure valve are located somewhere else besides the wet bay, yes? 4) Are you worried about how you plumb the black waste fill port with a hose attached to the fresh water inlet bib on far right? 5)How did you support the right half of the white wet bay panel?

Thanks a bunch!
-phil
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Old 02-06-2019, 04:43 AM   #35
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Tom
Splitting the panel looks like a great idea and nicely done.
Have you sent Newmar engineering photos & description?
It would be nice if they would consider something similar even if it was a special order$.
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Old 02-06-2019, 05:40 PM   #36
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Quote:
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My panel is out. It actually wasn’t bad at all thanks for the help above. The black shutoff valves pop off with a flat head screwdriver twist. Awesome. PEX pinch clamps came off with heavy duty cutter pliers and twisting back and forth (thanks YouTube). I used a heat gun to heat the pex line connections and they slid off like butter.

I used color sharpees to mark lines and holes. I took pictures etc. This is something I needed to learn to better be able to service things on my coach.

I have 3 new SeeLevel detector strips coming so I can mount on the wet bay side for better readings due to the slants.

Also looking for a much better and quieter water pump setup.

Now for the project at hand which hopefully doesn’t send me back to Newmar :(

Attachment 234199
Neal,
This is a very simplistic fix for the water pump but it is very quiet and I can change it out in 10 minutes without any contortions. I first mounted the pump on a piece of sealed plywood and put rubber feet on the plywood and just left it on the floor of the wet bay. That worked but it was still noisy. It now sits on a piece of high density foam (mattress pad) protected from bay water by a plastic tray. Had it like this for several months now and it works great. And it stays in place just fine!
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Old 02-06-2019, 07:26 PM   #37
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No need to squat under a slide to dump, you can dump from inside the coach using the remote switches. If you have sanicon, no need to juggle around the hoses to get to the T-handle. It is in no way required, it's just something different. Also potential smart phone operations of your dumping. Yes, there is a master on/off switch to enable/disable the system in the wet bay so it would only be ON when you are connected to the CG.
Do you leave the manual wastegates in place? Would you do a fail-open or normal-open setup so if the electric gate failed you’d still have the manual gate and could dump tanks? Seems like you could keep manual gates closed at all times, hook up to sewer, close electric gates, open manual gates and have redundant gates if your electric ones failed. Just not sure if that’s a thing.
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Old 02-06-2019, 08:32 PM   #38
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Do you leave the manual wastegates in place? Would you do a fail-open or normal-open setup so if the electric gate failed you’d still have the manual gate and could dump tanks? Seems like you could keep manual gates closed at all times, hook up to sewer, close electric gates, open manual gates and have redundant gates if your electric ones failed. Just not sure if that’s a thing.


No. The gates are replaced with ones without T handles which is one reason I want them with Sanicon in the bay. There is an Allen wrench backup to manually open/close the gate.
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:09 PM   #39
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Tom - The PDF's are great - first I've seen of anything this detailed! I did have a few additional questions if you don't mind. 1) Where do you put the salt for softener regeneration - the water filter canister? 2) How did you plumb the softener waste water into the waste stream (gray, black, neither?). 3) I presume the other valves shown in the softener diagrams along with the compressed air/alternate inlet and pressure valve are located somewhere else besides the wet bay, yes? 4) Are you worried about how you plumb the black waste fill port with a hose attached to the fresh water inlet bib on far right? 5)How did you support the right half of the white wet bay panel?
DrPhil, I'll try to respond to your questions below. I also included a few more photos.

1. The PDFs I uploaded are a little out of date. I use to add the salt through the top of the unit the way the documentation says to. But, based on an earlier water softener thread, I now add the salt to a filter canister and run it through the alternate water source input. See photo.
2. I have two options for the waste. I can either dump into the gray tank (I added a 1/2" Pex waste line from the WS to the gray tank) or I can connect to a hose and run to the sewer the way the diagram shows.
3. In my coach, the only option I had was to locate the water softener in the bay adjacent to the battery compartment. The other bays either have slideout trays or the basement freezer. The valves are next to the water softener. See photo.
4. The black waste fill port hose is only connected when I am actually flushing the black tank. The connectors are quick release. Otherwise, the hose is stored below in the wet bay.
5. Both sides are supported the same and attach to and are supported by the aluminum angle on the top, bottom and on the side walls. I removed the original aluminum angle off the panel face (top and bottom) and replaced it with new longer aluminum angle that I permanently mounted to the wet bay side walls. I didn't put any support screws into the roof of the wet bay. Not sure what's up there. I also added a kicker from the black/gray tank 2x4 support to the front panel back brace (near the filter) to stiffen it. This is where additional photos will better explain it.

I'll open up the wet bay again after I wrap up my current projects and take a few more photos along with a better write up and post in a new thread.

Tom
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Old 02-06-2019, 09:26 PM   #40
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I finished up my water bay project today. I had already added the electric drain valve and put switches for the drain valve and SaniCon in the half bath. I haven't dumped from the wet bay since I bought the coach. It's all done from inside.

Today I added the final component, a new Flojet Variable speed 5.5 gpm water pump. I started to take out the old pump, which is a nightmare without removing the panel, so I left it. I cut the wires to the old pump, added spade connectors to it and the new pump. The hose fittings on the old pump quick connected to the new pump without any alterations.

I installed the new pump on the bay floor and now have a backup in place, should the new one have an issue. It takes about ten minutes to switch hoses and wires back to the old pump.

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Old 02-06-2019, 09:32 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spk64 View Post
This has been my tried and true for most all plumbing fittings.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RectorSe...1630/203490732
Looks like good stuff, but doesn't appear to be compatible with ABS. Only polyethylene is listed.
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Old 02-07-2019, 05:52 AM   #42
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FTHARRIS-looking at your WS, do you use the filter canister to load the salt? Do you keep the empty canister in-line while in normal operation. I have a similar setup up and that’s what I do. However not road tested as yet and have come bugs to work out. Also I had to put the WS on the passenger side as I have slide trays in the thru bays.
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