Wet bay panel removal

[Canuck53]

Originally Posted by NealC

The tanks are supposedly slanted towards the wet bay which makes sense as in my pics you can see the drains. Also Garnet says in the manual to make sure the sensor wires are pulled to the side and not be near the top of the sensor strips. I don’t think mine were an issue but this time I taped them off to the side to ensure separation. Finally just verifying the ground wire at the console shares the ground connection with the sensors as it was before. The shorter wire run by 8 feet will also help as apparently SeeLevel is sensitive to wire resistance.

What gauge wire did you use?

Taping sounds like a good idea to make sure they stay. Thanks

[FlaRider]

With all the write-up and the wet bay, I decided to take mine apart to hook up a water softener and make it easier to get to the water pump and controller if needed. And to do something about the Sanicon setup, since Newmar is not going to correct it properly. I think I am going to do a direct connection to the discharge as a few have done, for now, I just removed it.

What a mess the wet bay is behind the panel with wire wrapped around hoses.

A couple question for those that tackled this project.

When I took the hoses off the "A" & "B" winterizing valves I forgot to label them. Can anyone confirm that the "A" valve goes to the water pump?

Where is the water pump controller? I thought I would see it next to the water pump, but I can't find it. I have a 2018 4327 DSDP.

Tom when you made the brackets for the low point drain valves why did you make 3 separate brackets vs one longer one with 3 openings?

[ftharrisiii]

Originally Posted by FlaRider

With all the write-up and the wet bay, I decided to take mine apart to hook up a water softener and make it easier to get to the water pump and controller if needed. And to do something about the Sanicon setup, since Newmar is not going to correct it properly. I think I am going to do a direct connection to the discharge as a few have done, for now, I just removed it.

What a mess the wet bay is behind the panel with wire wrapped around hoses.

A couple question for those that tackled this project.

When I took the hoses off the "A" & "B" winterizing valves I forgot to label them. Can anyone confirm that the "A" valve goes to the water pump?

Where is the water pump controller? I thought I would see it next to the water pump, but I can't find it. I have a 2018 4327 DSDP.

Tom when you made the brackets for the low point drain valves why did you make 3 separate brackets vs one longer one with 3 openings?

FlaRider, my thinking at the time was to maintain as much access into the space as possible rather than block off the area. I wanted as much open space for fingers, tools, etc. to access the pump, controller and gray and black tank valves.

Tom

[NealC]

Originally Posted by Canuck53

What gauge wire did you use?

Taping sounds like a good idea to make sure they stay. Thanks

I believe they use 18 gauge, I may have installed 14.

You have to make sure the wires coming off of the sensor are not near the top of the sensor per their docs.

[Canuck53]

Originally Posted by NealC

I believe they use 18 gauge, I may have installed 14.

You have to make sure the wires coming off of the sensor are not near the top of the sensor per their docs.

Thanks I have made notes and have pictures. Newmar indicated it would not take long to do, but I will have a discussion and see if they hit all the key points. I also get a chance to see behind the pegboard. Wires.....overflow setup etc...

[NealC]

Originally Posted by FlaRider

When I took the hoses off the "A" & "B" winterizing valves I forgot to label them. Can anyone confirm that the "A" valve goes to the water pump?

Where is the water pump controller? I thought I would see it next to the water pump, but I can't find it. I have a 2018 4327 DSDP.

1) If someone doesn't beat me to answering you I'll check mine when I get to my coach later today.

2) You don't get one as you have KIB I learned that last night when helping someone else with their pump.

[FlaRider]

Originally Posted by NealC

1) If someone doesn't beat me to answering you I'll check mine when I get to my coach later today.

2) You don't get one as you have KIB I learned that last night when helping someone else with their pump.

Neal Thanks on checking on it for me. Now I am thinking the "B" valve goes to the water pump.

And mystery solved on the missing water pump controller.

Thanks again.

Marc

[NealC]

Yes, I think A is coming direct from the bottom of fresh but I want to verify for you.

[NealC]

Originally Posted by FlaRider

Neal Thanks on checking on it for me. Now I am thinking the "B" valve goes to the water pump.

And mystery solved on the missing water pump controller.

Thanks again.

Marc

I'm sorry, I completely forgot. If you don't have an answer by the time I get back to the coach later in the week I'll definitely look at that time.

[FlaRider]

Originally Posted by NealC

I'm sorry, I completely forgot. If you don't have an answer by the time I get back to the coach later in the week I'll definitely look at that time.

No worries, Thank for all the info. Reading on winterizing it just makes sense that the "A" valve goes to the bottom of the tank and "B" valve goes to the water pump. Boy does it feel good to know what is behind the panel and to get it organized.

[rlwhite]

Originally Posted by ftharrisiii

DrPhil, I'll try to respond to your questions below. I also included a few more photos.

1. The PDFs I uploaded are a little out of date. I use to add the salt through the top of the unit the way the documentation says to. But, based on an earlier water softener thread, I now add the salt to a filter canister and run it through the alternate water source input. See photo.
2. I have two options for the waste. I can either dump into the gray tank (I added a 1/2" Pex waste line from the WS to the gray tank) or I can connect to a hose and run to the sewer the way the diagram shows.
3. In my coach, the only option I had was to locate the water softener in the bay adjacent to the battery compartment. The other bays either have slideout trays or the basement freezer. The valves are next to the water softener. See photo.
4. The black waste fill port hose is only connected when I am actually flushing the black tank. The connectors are quick release. Otherwise, the hose is stored below in the wet bay.
5. Both sides are supported the same and attach to and are supported by the aluminum angle on the top, bottom and on the side walls. I removed the original aluminum angle off the panel face (top and bottom) and replaced it with new longer aluminum angle that I permanently mounted to the wet bay side walls. I didn't put any support screws into the roof of the wet bay. Not sure what's up there. I also added a kicker from the black/gray tank 2x4 support to the front panel back brace (near the filter) to stiffen it. This is where additional photos will better explain it.

I'll open up the wet bay again after I wrap up my current projects and take a few more photos along with a better write up and post in a new thread.

Tom

Tom, first off let me say thank you for such detailed PDF's on how you installed your water softener. I finally had some time and was going to install mine but you have saved me so much time in coming up with a workable solution.
I do have a couple of questions using the external salt container:
1) on your Regen diagram, are you disconnecting supply at valve #2 and connecting to the input side of your separate salt container, then output of salt container to the Alt water input, and closing valve #5?
2) Since you have to run the salt/water mixture slowly back through the water softener for 30 minutes, how are you gauging the flow of water? Do you push a lot of water at first to get all the salt into the system?
Thanks again for your pictures and diagrams, great write up.

[rlwhite]

Tom,
Forgot to ask, what size valves and PEX did you use to make up your panel? Looks like 3/4" but can't tell. I have 1/2" throughout.
If you did use 3/4", did you re-pipe from 1/2" to 3/4" from your hose reel input to the filter, to your panel then reduced back to 1/2"?

[redbaron73]

I have not seen any 3/4" pex on my rv. Everything has been 1/2" pex.

I would like to upgrade the input side to 3/4" to allow for a faster fill.

[NealC]

Originally Posted by redbaron73

I have not seen any 3/4" pex on my rv. Everything has been 1/2" pex.

I would like to upgrade the input side to 3/4" to allow for a faster fill.

Your limitation is probably your filter though, not the water line.