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Old 06-30-2010, 01:37 PM   #15
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Is there anyone here, besides me, who levels as the coach manuals say? I don't get this floor and door business...it's the fridge that has to be level to operate properly. This is right from my owner's manual. Not trying to be a smart a.., but when it comes to something like tires or batteries there is only one way, according to most! The fridge and leveling seems to be done in all kinds of ways other than the manual instructions. Joe
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Old 06-30-2010, 02:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonnaB View Post
We occasionally us a golf bal...
That's funny, I was wracking my brain the other day trying to think of where I could find a marble, or a ball bearing, or something "roll-y" to check level. Guess what my favorite pastime is... and what I have jars and jars of, and what keep rolling out of the garage cupboads when I open the doors... Yer right, GOLF BALLS! I guess I over looked them because they were too big... bigger than a marble. The used AAA battery didnt work 'cause it only rolled one way at a time, and kept stopping on the label seam.
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Old 06-30-2010, 02:16 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by azloafer View Post
Is there anyone here, besides me, who levels as the coach manuals say?
Yes, me... but, as I mentioned, I found other indications that method didnt mean anything else was level so I decided that the fridge wasnt level. I actually always check level inside the fridge to make sure it is close, even if I adjust to another surface.

But, if the fridge is level and the doors keep closing or opening, do you just live with it to save your fridge? That's my dilemma FRIDGE OR COMFORT?

In actuality, they probably arent that far apart.
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Old 06-30-2010, 02:18 PM   #18
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The current recommendation is, if you're comfortable, then you're level and if doors don't swing open or closed then you're level.
That's the method I have been using lately... actually if the DW says it's level, then it's level... she uses the doors. However, that isnt good enough for an "engineer type" to install his front-back, side-to-side level guages, and I wanted to calibrate the HWH sensor if necessary.

My cockpit area is carpeted so havent wanted to use a level in that area when leveling with the jacks. I began to suspect any of the flat surfaces being level after doing work on various things in and around the coach. I'm finding screws driven at odd angles, factory installed shelves not level, and other things that indicate that the work was done "fast-to-get-it-done" rather than the best way. So didnt think I would rely on counters and the floor being level.

It looks like we all use similiar methods, and I am beginning to think that "close to level" is good enough.

Thanks for all the good suggestions....
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:17 PM   #19
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The one LEVEL thing around that a motorhome can use is a scale. A scale HAS to be absolutely level to work. Drive on and while you are getting weighted - drop the air ride - use a bubble level and any spot that you find in the coach that reads level will be just that - level. Don't pick a spot that is level that can move or flex later - like a table top, etc. (I found a spot that reads level on the tile floor in front of the refrigerator).
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Old 06-30-2010, 06:48 PM   #20
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The only thing that really has to be level is the refrigerator and once the leveling system says its level I usually put a bulls eye level on the bottom of the freezer compartment which usually ends up pretty close. Then I tilt it slightly toward the drivers side so the tanks will dump easier.
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Old 06-30-2010, 07:19 PM   #21
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The one LEVEL thing around that a motorhome can use is a scale. A scale HAS to be absolutely level to work.
That's a good idea. However, it mignt not be easy to find a scale where one can take enough time for the process.
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Old 07-01-2010, 08:58 PM   #22
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If you are trying to make your refer "perfectly level" because you think it has to be "perfectly level", you are wasting your time. See the technical why below...
Instead, KISS and just make the RV level for your own comfort and/or to keep the doors still or keep the DW happy. The refer will take care of itself.

See this post by RVRoamer.

To repeat Gary's info with all the details and calculations (letting Google do the calculations)...

Norcold/Dometic allow 3 degrees out of level for the refer side-to-side tolerance, this is RV front-to-back. From Gary's post (3degrees = 0.6in tilt per ft of RV length) we have for a 30ft RV a bumper-to-bumper tilt of 18inches! The calculation is 30ft * 0.6in/ft = 18in. For a 45ft rig that is greater than 2 whopping feet bumper-to-bumper tilt to stay within refer spec!!! You ain't going to walk like that for long.

For the refer front-to-back, that is the RV-side-to-side Norcold/Dometic allow 6 degrees. For our 9ft wide RVs, that is almost a foot of RV side-to-side tilt. Pretty uncomfortable to walk in I'd say.

So here's the math and how to have Google search do all the calculation and conversions for you.

For the refer side-to-side of 3 degrees and a 30ft RV:
30ft * Tan 3 degrees = tilt in feet = 1.57ft = 18.8 inches. Let Google do this for you. To get the tilt in inches for your 30ft RV feet type this into the Google search box "30ft * tan 3 degrees in inches" or in feet type this "30ft * tan 3 degrees in feet". Of course just plug in your RV length in place of the 30ft.

For the refer front-to-back of 6 degrees and a 9ft wide RV we have typing onto Google search either "9ft * tan 6 degrees in in" or in feet type "9ft * tan 6 degrees in ft".

Or you could get the answer in smoots (or any other unit you choose) by typing in "30ft * tan 3 degrees in smoots". Yes, Google even recognizes the infamous Smoot unit of measure.

Yes, Google search will convert whatever to whatever by asking it. For example, "10 miles in km" yields 16km.

Enjoy!
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:23 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by RVDude View Post
If you are trying to make your refer "perfectly level" because you think it has to be "perfectly level", you are wasting your time...!
That's pretty much what I thought, and havent worried too much about "perfect" where the fridge was concerned.

I have been concerned a bit more when I park along the curb in front of the house when preparing for a trip and cooling down the fridge for seveal hours. My steet is sloped right into my yard and drains the whole block. So it takes a lot of jack to get near level.

It helps to see the result of the calculation. It should put a lot of our fears to rest.

It will be interesting to see if AzLoafer feels a little less concerned about fridge leveling now.

As I mentioned, my main objective is to set level so I can mount my level gauges.
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Old 07-02-2010, 04:16 AM   #24
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I go according to my owner's manual. The "how to level" instructions pertaining to the fridge appears to be in the manual for a reason. Happy travels, Joe
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Old 07-02-2010, 04:26 AM   #25
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I'm usually off at least a bubble, but my MH is level.

Smoot?
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Old 07-02-2010, 05:01 AM   #26
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I see that I am not the only nite owl. Time to hit the sack. Good night, Joe
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Old 07-02-2010, 08:13 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Route 66 View Post
I'm usually off at least a bubble, but my MH is level.

Smoot?
Most days I am off by many multiple bubbles....


The real beauty of the Smoot is that the measure was immortalized long before the dude became the Chairman of ANSI and President of ISO!!! Who would have thunk from frat prank to 'da Grand Poobah of all measurement?
I walked all 364.4 +- ear Smoots twice a day for a long while.
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Old 07-02-2010, 09:23 AM   #28
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I use DW as the final say. When she says "it's level" ...........it is! Nuff said.
My wife always has the final say and we used to argue about it until a fellow camper suggested the perfect way to find level for a dissatisfied wife.

Just have her lay on the floor and which ever way she rolls is low.
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