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Old 07-11-2011, 10:35 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by powerboatr View Post
1500 miles is a long trip to go back for repairs....
sort of puts you in a bad place.....
but all in all norcold should would make it right.

dont know your delivery schedule but i would have never accepted the unit at the dealer until it was right. if that meant a return later or a few nights in a hostel so be it.
i would imagine the dealer would comp you for your travel

good luck
I'm not going back to the selling dealer for repairs - rather one 90 miles away (I live in the sticks).

My wife was leaning towards not accepting the unit. But it was the day before flying out to pick it up, and I had already squeezed a few days off from work. Rescheduling would have been highly impractical.

We searched long & hard for this 3962. There were others out there, but they weren't optioned to our liking. Plus we got a good deal.
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:06 PM   #16
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But wait - there's more....

Followup.

Thank you all for your suggestions. Reading Waynes' message about the wiring of the recall/box being wrong and following 007's links led me to the wiring diagram. The wiring is correct on mine. But looking at the diagram it was easy to see how to temporarily bypass the box with a jumper wire.

Bingo! - fridge works great. Makes me wonder why the techs at the dealership didn't do this and just get a new control box.


I'd really rather not have them tear out the fridge just for a dinky, easily swapped control box.
As I understand it, the recall box is designed to detect excessive operating temperatures and then shut the system down to prevent a possible fire. It is designed NOT to be reset. The logic is that excessive temps indicate a fault in the cooling unit, and resetting/jumping/replacing the box would be something like the old trick of putting a penny in a house fusebox when the fuse keeps blowing - It attacks the symptom, not the real problem.

Norcold doesn't want the liability of replacing the box once it has tripped. If you continue to run the refer with a jumper you are assuming the liability for any damage.

Most likely you have either a defective box or a defective cooling unit in the refer.

IF you could get a new box to test with, and IF you could monitor the actual temperature, and IF you knew the proper operating temperature, Then it might me reasonable to do so instead of changing out the whole refer. Probably too many IF's.
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:59 AM   #17
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As I understand it, the recall box is designed to detect excessive operating temperatures and then shut the system down to prevent a possible fire. It is designed NOT to be reset. The logic is that excessive temps indicate a fault in the cooling unit, and resetting/jumping/replacing the box would be something like the old trick of putting a penny in a house fusebox when the fuse keeps blowing - It attacks the symptom, not the real problem.

Norcold doesn't want the liability of replacing the box once it has tripped. If you continue to run the refer with a jumper you are assuming the liability for any damage.

Most likely you have either a defective box or a defective cooling unit in the refer.

IF you could get a new box to test with, and IF you could monitor the actual temperature, and IF you knew the proper operating temperature, Then it might me reasonable to do so instead of changing out the whole refer. Probably too many IF's.

Of course you're correct. I am fairly certain that the problem is with the control box rather than the cooling unit since the failure occurred instantly when the unit was powered on for the first time, before it had the chance to get hot. Would it be reasonable to replace the control box and then monitor the operation? If indeed the cooling unit is defective then the second control box should fail, otherwise not.
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Old 07-12-2011, 06:22 PM   #18
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Replacing the black box is an easy task if you can find another one. I was recently testing the ice maker solenoid and must have done something to short the black box because when I restarted the fridge there was no power and the red light on the box was on. A mobile repair guy had a spare black box and swapping it out fixed the problem. Replacing the box first would be my first choice.
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Old 07-13-2011, 02:12 AM   #19
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While it's true that there were a run of failsafe boxes that were returning false positives, I don't think anyone on this thread is qualified to make a positive determination that it's the detector and not the cooling unit, that's a factory call for a variety of reasons. Having said that it makes no sense that they would wholesale swap the entire fridge rather than sending a cooling unit and paying the local shop to swap it out.
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Old 07-13-2011, 02:39 AM   #20
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Not to say dealer would not do a excellent transfer with no damage to your new coach I would just request the transfer of control, bypass block, unit that needs replacement.
Who knows there maybe a replacement for that one in future also.
For MFG's replacing the whole fridge is much, for a new one out of box, sort to speak.
My new coach had a 1200 and dealer was going to replace it cause they couldn't get it to work. I told them I was going camping that weekend and we'll see if its necessary, the ride did fridge good its been working great for pass 8 years.
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Old 07-13-2011, 05:44 AM   #21
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The OP said Newmar made the decision to ship a new fridge not Norcold.
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Old 07-13-2011, 06:14 AM   #22
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I hate to throw a monkey wrench into this but doesn't Newmar offer a residential type fridge as an option? If you don't boondock much it will save a lot of fooling around with a Norcold.
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Old 07-13-2011, 06:23 AM   #23
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I hate to throw a monkey wrench into this but doesn't Newmar offer a residential type fridge as an option? If you don't boondock much it will save a lot of fooling around with a Norcold.
Funny you mention that. A residential fridge would work great for me. One of the first options I mentioned to Chad from Newmar was to do just that. He nixed that idea saying that would require adding 2 batteries and changing the inverter. It was technically, logistically and financially much cleaner just to agree to a 1 for 1 swap. Maybe I should've pushed harder.
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Old 07-13-2011, 12:14 PM   #24
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If Newmar factory is going to change it out, I wouldn't worry. They are the best .
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Old 07-13-2011, 12:57 PM   #25
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If Newmar factory is going to change it out, I wouldn't worry. They are the best .
No, it is a local (90 miles away) dealer. I wouldn't worry about the factory either.
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:42 AM   #26
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The OP said Newmar made the decision to ship a new fridge not Norcold.
Doesn't matter who made the decision. Why replace a $4000 fridge when you can get the exact same results with a $1000 part?
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Old 07-21-2011, 06:43 PM   #27
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A little closure here for this topic.

Had fridge swap done today on my new 2011 Ventana 3962 at a dealer 90 miles away.

Invoice to Newmar from dealer > $4K (wow)

Recall black box is now up to revision E (old one was revision D)

Dealer swapped it through the window.

Took around 4 hours.

Give the dealer a B+. They left the inside of the coach a bit dirty/dusty, and smeared the silicone caulking on the upper boarder of the window instead of the nice, neat bead done at the factory. I will do my own leak test and probably re-do the silicone caulking due to OCD.

Fridge seems to work great - will know for sure tomorrow.
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Old 07-21-2011, 06:54 PM   #28
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Newmar doesn't use silicone for the primary seal, it's there to protect the putty around the window from the elements and collecting dirt. I say putty but it's not the old style putty either.
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