Whirlpool Freezer Settlement (lawsuit)

[woodosgood]

I got an email today that claims to be a Legal Notice in the case of Corzine v Whirlpool. The email address and associated web links all have freezersettlement.com in them. I have not clicked on any of them.

I found a link to the case using a Google search and found this story - https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-...on-settlement/

The basics are that Whirlpool units with the freezer on the bottom may have a drain tube blockage which can lead to ice build up on the freezer floor and/or leaks. I know some of you have experienced this problem.

My question to this forum - is this link to freezersettlement.com legit?

[Old-Biscuit]

Why NOT contact Whirlpool directly and inquire?
US: 1-866-698-2538
Canada: 1-800-807-6777
Hour of Operation:
Monday-Friday: 8:00 AM to 8:00 PM EST
Saturday: 8:00 AM to 4:30 PM EST

[woodosgood]

I called Whirlpool Trade Care Team at this number provided by Newmar (800-874-4698) and received confirmation that this lawsuit is legitimate. Below is a brief summary from the website that explains what is covered. There is also a link on the site that lists all the model numbers and serial numbers that are covered by this settlement.

If you have not experienced this problem, it looks like your warranty for this particular issue has been extended to 5 years from purchase date.

https://www.freezersettlement.com/ or call 833-456-8243

If you purchased a Whirlpool-manufactured refrigerator with a bottom freezer manufactured between 2009 and 2018, and you experienced or experience ice build-up on the floor of your Class Refrigerator that may have resulted in leaking from the bottom freezer (“Freezing Event”) and you incurred documented, out-of-pocket expenses to repair your Class Refrigerator’s freezer drain tube within five years (5) of purchase as a result, you may be eligible for reimbursement up to $150 as follows:

100% of parts and labor costs for Qualifying Repairs you paid for in years one (1) through three (3) after purchase;
100% of parts and 65% of labor costs for Qualifying Repairs you paid for in year four (4) after purchase; and
100% of parts and 50% of labor costs for Qualifying Repairs you paid for in year five (5) after purchase.

[PandS]

Thanks for posting this information! We were planning on pulling our refrigerator and notching the duck bill valve like so many here have done. With your information I called Whirlpool yesterday and they told us we're covered for the repair. They have set up a service date for us. We have to have the fridge pulled out before they come, and then the duck bill will be replaced with a new and improved part.

The number to call to set up the service call for an RV is 866-233-8547. I was told to choose option 2, but it went right to a person when I called.

Susan

[RMD3819]

Whirlpool also confirmed to me that this is covered.

How difficult is it to get the fridge out?

[Dutch Star Don]

Thanks guys, good info and follow up.

[woodosgood]

On our 2016 Ventana 4369 with a residential fridge, you have to remove a piece of wooden trim along the top of the refrigerator and then unscrew 2 screws that hold the refrigerator to some wooden blocks. I found the ice maker/water line to be long enough to pull the fridge out without having to disconnect any plumbing. It's on wheels, so one person may be able to move it.

Newmar customer service provided me with written step-by-step guide to remove the fridge (attached).

[PandS]

Whirlpool sent out a tech last week and he removed the old parts and installed the new one, which has a p-trap. Took the tech about 10 minutes and cost us nothing.
Getting the fridge back in place and re-installing the fasteners took me about half an hour. No big deal. Reinstalled the wood trim using double sided tape.

Hopefully the fix is permanent. -Paul

[BrokeDown]

Originally Posted by PandS

removed the old parts and installed the new one, which has a p-trap.

Hopefully the fix is permanent.

I did mine myself about a year ago. So far, it is working perfectly.... the bottom of the freezer stays dry and no more puddles of water on the floor.

[PandS]

The old part was a straight plastic tube with the duck bill valve on the end. The repairman cut the straight pipe to make room for the new p trap and new duck bill valve.



There was not that much gunk in the old duck bill valve, but he said the tube had been filled with water. I asked if the new valve would eventually fill with gunk. He suggested routinely pulling the refrigerator out and cleaning it. Obviously, he never had to pull out an RV refrigerator.

Susan

[FLJOE]

Ours filled with ice last year. Newmar suspected the defective drain was the issue so while we were at the factory they pulled it. Turned out it wasn't the bad drain but a transport plug had been left down there and it fell just right and was blocking the drain. They claimed they went ahead and did the drain modification anyway while the frig was pulled. I hope so.

[pjgolpher]

Our Freezer froze shut a week and half before our visit to the Mother Ship. It's embarrassing to beg for Ice Cubes for a cocktail. Once at factory it took 10-15 min to fix and has been fine since. That was August of 2017.
Our coach is Ventana #3709.

[RMD3819]

A tech came out and fixed mine today.

Here are some tips to prepare as the Newmar sheet referenced above is not up to date.
Top:
1. Remove the front trim piece. Used a plastic spatula and pried it off. (Not pictured)
2. There is a second trim piece held on by two screws.
3. Two brackets attached by two screws each. These brackets are supposed to be glued onto the top of the fridge. MINE WERE NOT. The glue had dried and separated from the fridge on both sides.

Bottom:
1. Open the freezer door. Bottom plastic is consist of three C-shaped clamps that attach to posts on the fridge. Pull HARD to get this off. There are two slides on each side that open towards the fridge so they are useless unless you want to leave them off and have access to the floor screws at all times.
2. One screw on each side mounted down into the floor.

The most difficult part was pulling the unit out. Not enough clearance to get a grip from the sides. I uses a ratchet strap with S hooks and attached to the metal frame behind each wheel and, with the help of the tech, pulled it out.

The actual repair was simple. There are videos on YT so I won't repeat it here.

Pushed back into place securing the bottom screws first. Applied thick layer of Liquid Nail to the top brackets in the hopes it will stick as the brackets don't sit flush against the roof of the fridge. This is a bad design but if I'm in a situation where the fridge breaks loose that will be a small component of a larger disaster.