Who has had winterization damage?

[wildcatter]

Several years ago I decided to only blow out the lines, did this for two years, the first year no problems, the second year went to go fill up the FW tank and turned on the pump, I had water running out from under the outside wall onto the ground, the connection at the kitchen faucet broke. I went back to blowing out the lines and the running RV anti-freeze thru them. Never again will I go back to just air.

[Forkyfork]

Had a friend that blew off winterizing in Utah. We spend the entire spring playing what doesn't leak. Destroyed the water pump and the water heater.
Had some minor damage myself from just draining and not running the pink stuff or blowing out. That was on my old class C.

So about that awesome PEX. The weak point? the fittings and anything else that isn't pex like the connections on the back of the WH and the water pump.

I had a look at the fittings in my 2004 winnebago and they will not survive freezing. They are not the right kind of plastic although Im not entirely sure its PEX either which makes it even more important that it get winterized properly.

[Sweetbriar]

Hate to break the PEX bubble but there's still PVC, other hard plastics and metal fittings thru out the potable water system. Elbows, tees, transitions, valves and such that will crack and usually they are well buried in the coach between the walls, under the shower pan, behind a tank the coach was built around.

If there's a concern drain, the system. If it's keeping you up at night, drain and refill with antifreeze. If you need incentive ask you local repair shop what their hourly labor rates are.

[NealC]

I have a feeling with the temps we're all seeing this year more of us are going to be finding a few leaks as a result. Keep your eyes open and inspect post winter storage for leaks.

[NealC]

You have to wonder how those external TV's handle the extreme cold. There could be condensation from being within that cabinet, who knows, then extreme cold can't be good for these TV's. I don't believe they are marketed/sold as outdoor TV's.

["007"]

As you can see there is always something you might have forgot, after thinking you all set.
Its been covered many times in this thread with even adds this year, new coach's added problems, just trying to keep on top of things.

[dix39]

One fall I forgot to run pink through the toilet flush valve. That spring I was replacing it.

Our first camper had copper tubing. Not knowing any better, we took it on our first short trip without checking things out. We were surprised when, after arriving at our destination, we turned the water on and found it running all over the place. It was a "dry camp" for the rest of the trip. Apparently, the previous owner didn't believe in winterization. I replaced several water lines in impossible to get to places before all was well again.

Steve

Steve

[mrt_1111]

I used air only one year and broke cpvc pipes and water pump. Now I blow it out with air, add the pink stuff and then blow it out again.

[harleyjt]

Originally Posted by NealC

You have to wonder how those external TV's handle the extreme cold. There could be condensation from being within that cabinet, who knows, then extreme cold can't be good for these TV's. I don't believe they are marketed/sold as outdoor TV's.

In freezing weather in a winterized RV, I don't think its makes any difference whether its inside or outside. Its cold regardless and the temps will be virtually the same.
jt

[Jim.B1]

Sorry, but unfortunately I do not have any bad winterizing experiences to share.
I have been Winterizing my RV's water system for the past 7 years, and Winterized my boat's water and motors for 25 years, and have ALWAYS drained the lines and added Plumbing Anti-freeze.
The RV takes only 4 jugs @ $3.99 total $16.00.
The Boat took 23 jugs @ $3.99 total $92.00
When I walked away at the end of the season I never had to worry about any freeze up, split lines, cracked blocks etc.
In the Spring, simply flush the lines with fresh water and you are good to go.
We are leaving Sunday to head south, and because of the extreme low temps, we will leave the RV Winterized until we hit warmer temps, even though the basement is heated.
To me, this is a very inexpensive insurance policy for the peace of mind that I will not have an issue when I do go to use it.
Winter comes at the same time every year and this one is especially harsh.
The cost of tracing a leak, or replacing water lines, pumps and tanks must be expensive!
I have also made notes for myself to reference the following year so I don't miss anything.

[Coral]

I hopefully will have none, the only areas of concern are; I did not open/drain the valve on Oasis distribution panel but I did blow lines out with compressed air and then ran gallons of antifreeze through it.

The other area of concern is; did I run enough antifreeze through the Whirlpool washer to protect the P - trap.

Currently the coach is sitting at 10 degree F.

[Soppy]

I just drain all the lines and tanks. Blow them out with air and then pump the pink stuff through . I make sure all the traps are full of antifreeze also. All the valves are left in the open position. Black & Grey tank valves are closed. My first coach was purchased with split water lines. Don't ever want to replace them again. Coach is sitting in -30 weather rite now. Typical northern winter.

[harleyjt]

The other area of concern is; did I run enough antifreeze through the Whirlpool washer to protect the P - trap.

I actually stuck a funnel in the drain line and poured pink stuff into it to be sure and get it into the drain line after I did a spin cycle in the washer. I guess the thing I'm most concerned about now is the water pump. Time will tell.
jt

[Vacay Wheels]

I learned a $45 lesson last spring! The water pressure regulator can't be left on the rig all winter long, or it doesn't work right in the spring... :P