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Old 01-02-2019, 01:10 AM   #1
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Wiring or fuse issue - I need assistance

First a little background. I was/am trying to move some of the components in my media cabinet to create more room for my WeBoost and to place the Winegard Entertainment Switch box and my stereo receiver/DVD player to a lower position (Where I can actually reach it).

I was dissembling and labeling the various coax's, speakers and control wires when I hear the alarm from my battery disconnect switch on the opposite side of the overhead cabinets above the dash. I didn't think much of it at the time but soon discovered that I now don't have AM/FM radio and the compass on my useless overhead mounted rear view mirror is out. I removed all the wiring very methodically, one at a time labeling as I went. I didn't simply rip them out fearing that I would create connection problems later which seems all for naught now.

None of the fuses in my fuse block below the dash are burned out nor do any of them feed power to the devices that are out. Additionally all fuses in our 12 volt panel near our breaker box are fine and none are labeled as dash radio or power supply for the media cabinet.

In the process of eliminating bad connections (in the media cabinet) I discovered that I also have a circuit that consists of two red wires wired nutted together and two white wires that are wire nutted together. According to the wiring diagram that @007 helped me find those wires should be 110 volts from the white (ground) and the red (positive) and I have nothing. So, now I have two inactive circuits one 12 volts and one 110 volts. These wires are where the power supply from our WeBoost was wired to. That power supply is 120 volts AC to six volts DC and is a hard wired unit. The we boost is of course not functional either.

I know I have a fuse panel above the generator up front. These are fusible links. Do I just test potential across the poles of these links? If not, how do find out if they are good or not. Or, perhaps I am missing a fuse panel somewhere? Any advice is good advice. I hope all this made sense.

Thanks for the help in advance.
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Old 01-02-2019, 02:07 AM   #2
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Update - I also just found that my C02/LP sensor is out as well. Looking at the schematics again the sensor and the radio fuses are supposed to be in the rear electrical compartment near the coach battery disconnect (BIRD?). This is a cabinet I have never explored. Click the photos to enlarge.



Are these inline fuses noted in the sizes needed?

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Old 01-02-2019, 10:54 AM   #3
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Not sure this will be a ton of help but will offer what I can.
In your second schematic the -<4>- & -<1>- indicate the pin number of the connector those wires are running through.

Regarding the fuse locations in your first schematic. (Here is where the info may be of little help since my coach is a 2015 Ventana) Given the way the schematic has the dashed line around the coach battery disconnect I'm thinking you will find those fuses in close proxmity to the coach battery disconnect solenoid. In my coach that is located on the wall in the back of the electrical bay. Hope this is of some help.
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Old 01-02-2019, 10:59 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Someday Came View Post
Not sure this will be a ton of help but will offer what I can.
In your second schematic the -<4>- & -<1>- indicate the pin number of the connector those wires are running through.

Regarding the fuse locations in your first schematic. (Here is where the info may be of little help since my coach is a 2015 Ventana) Given the way the schematic has the dashed line around the coach battery disconnect I'm thinking you will find those fuses in close proxmity to the coach battery disconnect solenoid. In my coach that is located on the wall in the back of the electrical bay. Hope this is of some help.
According the coaches schematic, I agree that the fuses will be in the proximity of the batteries as the panel in question is located inside my electrical bay. I will be checking this later today as it is very cold here this morning.

As for the pin numbers, thanks for that. I assumed those were the values of the fuses. I don't think I have ever seen a one amp fuse.

Thanks for the ideas. This is as frustrating as it can get. I have perhaps 25 various wires, speaker connections, and coaxes hanging out of this cabinet right now. What a mess.
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Old 01-02-2019, 11:12 AM   #5
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Charlie you say your working in your entertainment cabinet I will say your BIRD System and the battery information diagrams should not have any link to the entertainment cabinet.
What may supply powers to the enter-cabinet maybe a small 12v converter that supplies the power for cabinet when your only working off your batteries so you could run tv's and other entertainment items.

Within this link for everything from the IMPORTANT LINK FOR NEWMAR OWNERS is this link which has fusing for entertainment items and wiring.
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Old 01-02-2019, 11:24 AM   #6
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Hmmmm,

I'm not sure I follow?

The circuit that my step down converter for the Weboost is 120 volts. It's dead. Are you saying that It's on battery being converted through the Xantrex ?

If that's the case the C02/LP sensor is also In-op so it's logical to assume that one should be on 24/7/365 and would also be through the Xantrex.

Where do I check for fuses then? Is there an inline fuse behind the radio and the C02/LP sensor? Man, I am getting really confused here..
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Old 01-02-2019, 11:49 AM   #7
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In some coach's over the years there were two load centers, one for the 110 items and some outlets not off your inverter/converter for AC's, refrigerators , hairdryer and another load center for all outlets for 110 off your inverter.
The other load center maybe beside your main load center or in another cabinet like in your bedroom that i have seen in coach's.
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Old 01-02-2019, 03:53 PM   #8
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Ah, now I understand. Both are in our bathroom overhead cabinet. All fuses and breakers are good. In both.
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Old 01-02-2019, 07:23 PM   #9
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After an afternoon of chasing wires and fuses still coach 1, me 0.
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Old 01-02-2019, 07:43 PM   #10
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Are you sure the salesman switch wasn't accidentally turned off
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:06 PM   #11
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Salesman switch? Nope, it's on right now. All lighting works when on, and of course everything goes dark when its off. The radio, compass and c02/LP sensor are inoperative with the latter being very concerning to me.
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Old 01-03-2019, 01:00 PM   #12
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This morning I pulled the panel cover off of the battery isolator panel and found the 7.5 amp circuit that powers the radio and the mirror compass/outside temperature. I changed the fuse out as it was burnt out. Now those two components work.

The C02/Lp sensor still does not work. It has a 1 amp fuse that shows good when tested with my multi-meter (shows direct short pole to pole). The schematics show just the 1 amp fuse at the battery isolator fuse panel. Does anyone know if there is an inline fuse for this equipment somewhere?
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Old 01-03-2019, 01:46 PM   #13
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The labeled fuse it it. There is nothing else.
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Old 01-03-2019, 02:15 PM   #14
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Gary is correct, have you tried running a 12v -,+ wire temp to prove detector works not defective may have a blinking green light when working.
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