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Old 07-23-2013, 08:24 PM   #1
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'00 40 FDS brakes!

Hey all! I know I'm going to hear the typical use the forum search, but I haven't found what I'm looking for! I purchased a '00 40 FDS last weekend & on our way home from Vegas to Montrose CO we had a break issue develop to to no brake lights which in turn doesn't cancel the cruise control and then leads to catastrophic brake failure when coming down a steep grade! So this was so bad that it burned the oil seals up & had to get towed home from Green River, before you lecture me on how to drive, I own an equipment company, have my CDL, drive heavy equipment regularly & I wasn't actually drive, I had turned the controls over to my friend so I could have a break, bad idea! OK here's what I'm needing to know, where do I get parts for this thing? I need rotors, calipers, pads, possibly master cylinder & some abs sensor parts!
Thank you for any help!
Troy
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Old 07-23-2013, 09:22 PM   #2
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So all that really happened was that the brake light switch failed. Happened to me once although I had the sense to turn the cruise control off manually. The switch is Cole Hersee 90043-07. Your brakes are probably Bosch ZOHT and it should be easy for any brake shop to identify them from the casting number. Don't know why the master cylinder would need changing.
Here is the link that you were looking for How to replace hubs, calipers, rotors, bearings, & seals
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Old 07-23-2013, 09:28 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info!
Ya I had driven all day just turned the cruise off & exhaust brake on when going down grades, seemed simple to me!
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:49 PM   #4
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My other guess is that the brake fluid had not been power flushed in the last two years, and so there was quite a bit of water in it, which when it got hot, turned to steam, caused the brake failure you are talking about. There should be a exhaust brake which you might have tried to use. That might or might not drop the transmission into 4th gear, and don't go over around 50 MPH in that situation since you can and will overrun the engine, per a service manager at Cummins I talked too about this situation. He said they get two or three coaches a month with this issue since most MH drivers don't know how to drive a big rig. I think some form of CDL training should be mandatory for all owners who drive these things.

As stated above the part are very available, so any good repair shop should be able to find them and fix the coach.
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Old 07-25-2013, 02:38 PM   #5
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I had planned on replacing the fluid when I got home along with a full service of the coach! I did notice that if you pushed the brake pedal hard it would seem to cam over & you'd have to manually pull the pedal back up, part of the reason I was thinking master cylinder also! As for the over speeding of a diesel, I hear you, bad things happen!!! With the cruise off & the EB on everything seemed to function properly tranny would drop to 4th brake would engage & coach would slow! Just an unfortunate situation that happened!
Thanks again for all input & info!
Troy
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:26 AM   #6
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Any shop that does brakes should be able to get parts for you.

"turning over to a friend to drive" is probably not a good idea when in the mountains with a new-to-you coach on the first drive of the coach before you had done fluids, belts, hoses, etc.

Barb
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:19 PM   #7
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Thanks for the advice Barb! The friend I turned it over to has owned class A's for the last 5 yrs, it was just a bad situation! I'm performing the repairs myself, not taking it to a brake shop, is why I needed the info!

Thanks
Troy
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:34 PM   #8
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[QUOTE=TVH475;1655336]Hey all! I know I'm going to hear the typical use the forum search, but I haven't found what I'm looking for! I purchased a '00 40 FDS last weekend & on our way home from Vegas to Montrose CO we had a break issue develop to to no brake lights which in turn doesn't cancel the cruise control and then leads to catastrophic brake failure when coming down a steep grade! So this was so bad that it burned the oil seals up & had to get towed home from Green River, before you lecture me on how to drive, I own an equipment company, have my CDL, drive heavy equipment regularly & I wasn't actually drive, I had turned the controls over to my friend so I could have a break, bad idea! OK here's what I'm needing to know, where do I get parts for this thing? I need rotors, calipers, pads, possibly master cylinder & some abs sensor parts!
Thank you for any help!

Hi Troy, I recently sold my Alpine 36 SDS. I had all these brake problems also. You say you are doing this yourself. If you have a complete shop and a torch you may be ok. Peterbilt in Cincinnati Charged me $1700, labor wheel seals abs sensor and fluid. The rotors were welded on from excessive heat. You maybe in for a job unless you have a good shop and equipment.

Parts for the brakes are the same as found on many International school
buses.

Calipers with a casting #4150844; Bendix 55250 2 piston; Napa rebuild SE8551 $63.50 exchange. All 4 are alike

Rotors; Brand name Gunite;15' 10 hole 6' hub Napa #D6176M $150 each.

Brake pads; Bendix225 $76. per axel

ABS wheel sensor; part#0632-51-97 This is for the front, I am not sure if the sensor is the same for a rear, however all the calipers, rotors and pads are all alike.

My total parts only, just rotors, calipers and pads, were $1050. my total out the door cost was $3100.

All these prices were October 2012

I also carry a CDL. I am a retired cross country trucker. I could have replaced the brakes on my Peterbilt 3 times for that cost.

What seems to happen on the brakes, from my understanding. Dot 3 fluid is said to be hydroscopic. It will absorb moisture, then the fluid swells and gets hot under heavy breaking, then the pistons in the caliper do not retract and over heat causing your brake failure. I lost mine 3 times.. Everybody says change the fluid every 2 years. Now we are learning why. I bought mine used. It had been sitting 5 years. It does not seem to be miles, it is an age problem, even when not being used. If it were me a master cylinder would be on the very top of the list. I would not think a brake sensor would cause your problem.


Master cylinder; sorry I do not have a part #, but I got the number from the old cylinder and found one at Drive Line Inc. in Florida, phone 954-572-2821 for about $250. These folks cater to brake parts for older vehicles. I did not think my 99 coach was old. My master cylinder was replaced in Harlingen Tex, 6 months prior to the $3100. ticket .

Since I have sold my coach I do not monitor this sight much. If I can help further, call me at 812 346 4396 home, 314 610 2622 cell. any time. Don Robinson
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Old 08-03-2013, 01:44 PM   #9
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Redlands Truck & RV (Redlands, CA) is the lead on replacement master cylinders if this forum is accurate. Several owners have changed theirs to a little different model, which provides much better pedal travel and braking performance. I have not experienced it, but some owners who have had the change can chime in here and let you know what it was all about. They might ship you the new master cylinder if it would work on your coach, as I think this is for 05 and later units because they changed some stuff because of the movable pedals which was started in 05.

Not sure about this, and there is an associated issue because the boost for the MC comes from the hydraulic pump/reservoir located in the back of the coach, so I would do a search on this forum for the correct fluid to put in this unit after I did a service. There are two/three filters in this can if I remember.
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Old 08-04-2013, 09:12 AM   #10
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Thank you very much Don & Monty! I wasn't lucky enough to be able to get it into the shop so I'm in the gravel parking lot with nothing but hand tools! The coach has come apart very well with only one rotor being split in two causing me to have to beat it off with a hammer! I am very fortunate to have not had any of the parts welded together on the coach, it has come apart very well! The only power tool I've used is a 1/2" drive impact at the shop to swap the rotors on the hubs! the reason I haven't been able to get to the shop is we tore up the right front spindle so it is not moveable without the wrecker & the new spindle & ABS sensors will not be here till tomorrow, but other than that the job is complete! I did both rears yesterday & hooked up the right side caliper so I could start gravity bleeding, I got fluid to all calipers but the left rear bleeder, fluid is at the line but not pushing through the caliper, so I might try to blow threw the caliper with air today to see if there might be something causing a blockage! All in all it hasn't been a bad project just unfortunate that this is how I'm starting out my motorhome experience, I've always had toy haulers & never had any problems, other than the typical interior screws falling out, but my F-350 is still sitting in the driveway so if my luck don't change with the moho it's back to the toy hauler! As for price I'm going to end up right @ $3000 in this project! I got all my parts, other than the rotors, from Coltons Truck supply here in Montrose CO! Calipers= $120 each, pads= $70 per axle, abs sensors= $100 each, spindle= $650, rear seals= $55 each, not sure on the front seals or right front bearings! The rotors I got from anymaketruckparts.com for $662.74 to my door! I I'm also figuring @ $200 for consumables! I will get part #'s up when I get them gathered up if anyone would like! The link to Alpine Daves thread is very helpful for this project, all though I had the different calipers it got me headed in the right direction!
Monty thanks for the info on the M/C it will be replaced if I have any further issues!
Don thank you so much for your time, offering you knowledge & experience on a personal level is very much appreciated!
I will keep you all updated on how this project shakes out!
Thanks again
Troy
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:26 PM   #11
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Hello Troy and Welcome to IRV2 and the Alpine Coach Form.
WRV equipped the Alpine Coach through 2000 and a few 2001’s with Hydraulic Disc Brakes with Floating 2 Piston Calipers. The 2001 model year they changed to a fixed 4 piston Caliper. The Floating Calipers use Pin Sliders which should be lubed with a high quality lube like the PERMATEX® - Disc Brake Caliper Lube.This should be performed every year per WRV.

Looking at your Parts List I would look at the Spindles, It is very difficult to damage a spindle, even when the brakes have been over heated.
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:54 PM   #12
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Thanks Dave! That is the exact lube I used on the brakes & anything that moves or made metal to metal contact got a healthy does of it! I feel real good about that decision now! I'm replacing the right side front spindle because the outer bearing failed & made a mess out of everything, so new spindle inner/outer bearings, the hub looked good to me so I'm running it! I feel like I did a good job inspecting all the bearings, spindles, hubs & feel confident in the job I'm performing, after all I have to drive it! LOL the one positive out of this is I know a lot more about my coach now than I ever thought I would owe a lot of that knowledge to this forum!
Thank you all,
Troy
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:05 PM   #13
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Troy- you're in the drivers seat as to decision to Rep place the master cylinder. Search this forum for a thread called Meritor Braking Improvement and you'll find links that have matter cylinders. Yours is the same 2" bore but it won't swap for the later model MC assemblies. Your assembly comes with a plate on top instead of a tank (this adapts the MC to a remote reservoir which you've obviously found. You will find the MC w/remote talk plate at the same sources linked in that thread.
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:14 AM   #14
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Troy, you are a lot braver than I am. I don't have a place to work on one at this level, although I do have the correct jack stands, and a 12 Ton hydraulic Jack (I Carry this jack with me wherever I go, you never know when it would come in handy). Please make sure you get a hand on the brake fluid bleed, your better half or a friend can push on the pedal. Another thought would be to check the reservoir each time you push down on the pedal, especially with the back brakes, that is a lot of fluid going back that way until the system is filled. Good luck, sounds like you got it well in hand.
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