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Old 12-17-2015, 06:10 PM   #1
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04 Alpine 40MDS winterize tips

Any tips to winterizing this coach? My old coach I would drain everything and blow air through system and dump Rv antifreeze in tanks...... But this coach is more sophisticated so any info would be appreciated

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Old 12-17-2015, 08:01 PM   #2
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Same basic procedure no matter the age of the coach. I prefer to blow air and then do the pink antifreeze also. I know this is redundant, but it can get to -40 here and I like feeling secure that I won't have any "surprises" in the spring. Besides, antifreeze it cheap compared to any repairs that may be needed because of a lack of it.
Just make sure you blow out or run antifreeze through ALL your water lines without forgetting any, like the washing machine, outside shower, or ice maker.


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Old 12-17-2015, 08:15 PM   #3
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Sorry, we live in south Texas so no first-hand experience. However, winterizing Class A coaches is pretty much the same across brands. Couple of key points: 1] use the low point drains in the wet bay to start the draining process; 2] use the by-pass valve on the water heater to isolate it, then drain separately; 3] disconnect or by-pass the filter under the kitchen sink; 4]same thing if you have whole coach filter or RO water system; 5] need to follow manufacturer recommendations on washer [if you have one]; 6]blow out lines with air or use pink stuff [including the pump--some folks disconnect fresh water tank feed line and/or add a line so pump can circ the pink stuff][open all faucets and flush the toilet]; 7] pour pink stuff down all drains to displace water in p-traps [dont forget shower and washer drains [if you have one]]; 8] drain holding and fresh water tanks; 9] make sure water line to ice maker/water spout in refridge [includes chiller tank in fridge] are clear. That should about do it......
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Old 12-17-2015, 09:49 PM   #4
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When I winterize I put about 14 gallons of antifreeze in the water tank, I know some people will tell you they can do it for a lot less, but with my 2005 Alpine I like be sure that I have enough in the tank to use the on board tank and pump to winterize. I have a small submersible pump that it place in a Home Depot "Homer" bucket, connect it to the water line and pump the antifreeze into the coach. That gets antifreeze into all the lines, I then turn on the pump and run ALL fixtures until I get pink out of each one. That way I know the water is purged and the p trap has antifreeze in it. Be sure to run enough antifreeze through everything including the water heater, washing machine and the refrigerator, including the on door water and ice dispenser (if you have them), that is critical, the door will hold the water and the many of the parts are not very pliable so they will freeze easily and are hard to find, but leak like a sieve once they break. Also be sure you get the toilet and hand sprayer. And if you have an Aquahot, be sure you get plenty of antifreeze through there.

Once winterized I drain the holding tank into the Homer bucket (I have 2 so I can store up to 10 gallons), to reuse it next year, that way I am only "using" about 4 - 5 gallons each year.

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Old 12-18-2015, 07:02 AM   #5
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We lived in Colorado for several years while owning the coach and stored it outside during the winter. I used the "blow it out with air" routine while dumping antifreeze down the drains. I believe the procedure has been outlined in the previous posts but here are a few additional steps / issues:

I removed the input and output lines from the water pump. The water does stand in those lines & the pump and cannot drain without removing the lines.

If your coach is equipped with a washing machine be sure to pour some antifreeze in the tub followed by running the rinse cycle.

If your coach is equipped with a residential fridge be sure to blow out the internal water reservoir tank & line. I had to take the tank loose and turn it upside down to get all or most of the water to blow out. I also used a garden house under the dispenser to direct the water outside the coach (still pretty messy!).

I believe everything else has been discussed above.

I visited the coach about every 3 - 4 weeks at a time in the afternoon when the temps were above freezing. I ran the generator with the heat pumps turned on (if temps were warm enough) to load the generator thus increasing RPM. I turned it off once the batteries reached float level for about 5 - minutes.

I also ran the engine about every 2 - months until it reached approximately 150 degrees operating temperature.

I never had any problems with the plumbing related to freezing. The flexible drain pipe split open earlier this year but no doubt due to age and use, not freezing.
Bob Bowers (Surprise, AZ)
2003 Alpine Coach 40' FDTS
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Old 12-18-2015, 03:13 PM   #6
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I also suggest that while you are draining the system that you open the 2 supply valves to the washer. I do not have a washer in my coach and last year I did not open those valves. This spring when I pressurized the coach I found 1 of the washer shut off valves had broke. I believe, because I didn't open the valves the water did not drain.
2001 36 MDDS 350 ISC
Upstate of SC
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Old 12-18-2015, 07:15 PM   #7
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I think the best advice is to KNOW YOUR COACH, some of us have washers, some residential refrigerators, some dishwashers, each has it's own requirements. Some live in Maine, some in Georgia, read the comments above and if you have specific questions, ask. Each of us have our ideas of the right way to winterize and they may or may not be right for you and where you live, the is no universally correct way, do it the way that protects your coach for your environment.

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