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Old 05-10-2011, 11:03 PM   #15
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Today, sun was shining and it got to 65, wow summer is here.
So brought MH home, crawled inside the big bay, and looked up. Broke each connection, put some anti-corrosive conductive grease in each one, and put them back together. Same result when testing slide, it would not go out. So, I called Engineer Mike and HWH. Mike called me back first, and he said to back out the adjustment needle valve about 3 turns and it should bleed off, which it did, then tightened them back up and the slide cycled out, then in, and then it would not move. So I have a 2 year old solenoid valve which is bad. I am going to try to work a deal with HWH since they provided them as a warranty repair less than two years ago. I will also order a couple extra "O"-ring kits, and maybe one spare solenoid since it appears this one slide has a gremlin attached to it. Originally, it crept in, after being put out, so both units were changed, now it won't go out, so new SV's again.

Thank you EM, you are the man!!!!
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Old 05-11-2011, 06:30 PM   #16
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Before sending the valve in, try putting 12V to it separately to see if it cycles. Could be there is low voltage to the valve. I have an intermittent on my main slide extend solenoid valve, and before I send it in for rebuild, I intend to do a volt check on it. These valves are high amp solenoids (like 10 or 11 A iirc) and need near full voltage to run. There hasta be a relay in the line to power off the switch (unquestionably in the case of Silverleaf, maybe not for SE's and Ltd's), so bad contacts might be causing random voltage drop. Since yours is intermittent like mine, could be an issue like that and would get same result w/a "new" solenoid. Could also try measuring resistance of nearby solenoids and this one to see if its coil is OK.

Might also check w/the Casino, and see if they were using their remote jamming device that day, to keep customers in the parking lot longer.
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Old 05-11-2011, 07:38 PM   #17
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Hmmm, well the HWH Rear Control panel for the back (2 rear smartbeds & bedroom/vanity slides run off this panel) of the coach is right next to the manifold, so I could pop off the cover and pull the relay, since I now know which one lights up. I would agree with you about S/L, if I had been using that switch panel, or the TV; but I was using the main HWH switch panel in the control cabinet (where the pump is), so it may be the relay in the rear HWH panel might be the culprit. If the relay has a loose connection or whatever, then that might explain why it just quit Johnny on the spot. We lived without this slide for over a year, because it was the one which always crept in after being out for about 20 minutes, they used rebuilt valves for the warranty repair. HWH has not called me back as of yet either. I do realize they had some hard times last couple of years, so may have let folks go, and not rehired them yet. I left message yesterday, and received a call back about an hour later, that young lady could not solve the issue, and she then passed on my trouble ticket to another person, who most likely was busy.
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Old 05-12-2011, 05:41 PM   #18
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All - HWH and I hooked up via phone today and they are going to send me one solenoid valve (free) as it was replaced 18 months ago. The tech and I discussed all the things I did and he agreed the valve is bad. I also ordered an "O-Ring" kit, so I can have spare ones of those. He also is seeing if their Hydraulic/slide/levelers online couse can be copied to CD and if so he is going to send that along as well.

I am going to assume I can use a strap wrench to take out and replace the old valve because nothing else will go into that tight space. Will advise when it's replaced and working.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:02 PM   #19
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I made my own small-solenoid wrench (HWH sold one at one time, and perhaps still do). It consists of a piece of steel bar stock, drilled for two roll-pins set to coincide w/the two holes in end of solenoid valve. I can insert this gizmo, then put a real wrench on the bar stock to turn the valve. This is important if it isn't the closest valve to the near end, as all the others are way too buried to use any standard wrench on. I was going to weld a hex nub on the wrench-end but haven't done that yet; I made it usable as is, so the cute stuff can come after I retire again in July.

If the offending valve is on the end, there is a Facom adjustable pliers sold at Sears that has thin jaws that will grip that end solenoid and turn it a teeny bit (many repetitions takes the valve out or puts the new one in). Other pliers may work also.

Remember to wrap a rag around the manifold end of the solenoid prior to loosening, as there is usually some residual pressure in the manifold that will aerosol-ate enough oil to make a serious nuisance, and have a plug on hand to stop the flow of oil. On mine the extend solenoids on front manifold don't leak very fast, but the retract ones pour oil out so fast its disturbing.
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:12 PM   #20
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Thank you Mike!! I am going to assume then a strap wrench won't work. I will maybe have to call them back and order the wrench then, since it would be a good thing to have since this seems to be an ongoing problem with alpines, and other ones with Hyd systems. I specifically asked if they were busy, and doing good, as the rumor mill was saying they were having trouble, and he said they hear that rumor 50 times a week. That did not answer the question, but we were playing phone tag for two days before we hooked up. So they are busy, and I think there were only to people helping over the phone.
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Old 05-15-2011, 02:26 PM   #21
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All - So I took EM's suggestion and researched HWH tools, and they have a bunch of them. Two of them I am going to purchase. Here is the link to the tool listing, and there a lot of them.

HWH Parts Index

Look under "T" for the tools.
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Old 05-17-2011, 12:47 PM   #22
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All - Called HWH, they have redesigned the solenoid valve and so are also redesigning the tool needed to take them out, so they no longer sell it now. It's supposed to be coming soon. I found the contact extraction tool at an auto parts store as part of a kit. You don't need them often, but once in a while, it was cheap enough so I got it. Call me the tool junkie.
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:18 PM   #23
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OK - I went to change the Solenoid valve that HWH was kind enough to send me. Since it's an apex, I have the main HWH controls, pumps, etc up front behind the PS front wheel, and a secondary manifold amidships behind the large smart bed between the frame rails. The valves point outside toward the PS & DS sides of the coach. They are so close together you cannot get a strap wrench between them to take out one of the two inside valves. This would be true for both banks of valves. EM suggested a pin wrench, but it would have to be the correct one because you don't have a lot of room in that area to turn anything very long. I have something in mind, but have no way to make it up. I might go to an automotive machine shop and see if they could make up what I have in mind, and then I would have something. Regardless, HWH has redesigned the valves, and eliminated the "T" handle and the 1/4" nut and put in a lever. See the pictures attached. I cannot get the old one out, and so I cannot install the new one. I am going to call HWH on to see about an extension on the time I have before I need to return the old valve, and see if they have a new tool for installing these valves. The pictures have been resized, the valve is approximately 1.5" in diameter.

FWIW - the valve as shown is in its default working condition, if the lever is engaged so it's laying down across the valve, this is the manual mode, so the errent slide or bed, could be manually closed or opened if you are strong enough.
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Old 05-21-2011, 10:12 PM   #24
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It looks like plastic [space-age] but nevertheless, plastic, and the release pin looks like it could bend or break with minimal pressure/effort. Didnt/dont like the t-handles or 1/4 inch release nuts but at least they were metal. This new, plastic solution looks like a problem waiting to happen....
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Old 05-21-2011, 10:28 PM   #25
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OS - Yes, it looks like it could be a problem down the road. If they had used 30% glass fibers w/nylon plastic, it would be bullet proof. I won't cycle it until I have it in, then might try it once. It also looks easy to break off the handle to me.
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Old 05-22-2011, 08:43 AM   #26
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Upon further observation, the pivot point for the handle and release pin appears to be next to the end of the solenoid so the pin is probably not that susceptible to damage but the handle is still in question.
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:58 PM   #27
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IIWMI'd try cycling the handle before installing. if it breaks, I'd rather not have invested the calories installing it.
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Old 10-01-2011, 03:45 AM   #28
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All - Because it's an APEX, it has Silverleaf and the regular control panel in the HWH bay to operate the slides & Smartbeds. Today, leveled the coach, used the HWH panel switches to test the slide before I went under it, and low and behold it moved out/in just like it should. Tried it like 8 times, always worked. Went inside, using the silverleaf panel and the motor starts, you can hear pressure build, but no slide operation. Talked to EM, he said there must be a relay other than the ones in the HWH box in the roof of the coach/middle. Looked all over, no relay, so I called silverleaf, they said there wiring is a two wire system, which uses the HWH relays in the basement panel. The solenoid was not bad at all, it's a bad relay. Next week, once it quits raining here, I will go up and try to figure out which one is bad, then swap it with one of the others to make sure that is correct. When opening the slide using the HWH switches, those switches bypass the control board in the basement, and operate the slides directly. So using the switches it works, using the silverleaf it does not. At least I now have a spare solenoid valve. If anyone has changed any of those relays, are the standard bosh ones or are they special? If they are special, how much did you pay for them? Going to get two, one to fix the slide and one as spare.

Item #2, the bottom of the slide does not go in all the way, is the scissors mechanism in the bedroom adjustable so I can get it to come in tighter? If so any pointers on what to do, or if not, what options do I have. Alpine’s will know this one because we have the HWH type of rooms.
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