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Old 11-17-2010, 09:40 AM   #15
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Stan I measured grease zerk to zerk on the drag link and then increased the bend and set the length back to the original measurement. From there I test drove the coach and had to make just one small adjustment to get the steering wheel centered. You are also correct that it does not change the alignment.
Thanks Mike
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Old 11-17-2010, 10:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKelley View Post
Stan I measured grease zerk to zerk on the drag link and then increased the bend and set the length back to the original measurement. From there I test drove the coach and had to make just one small adjustment to get the steering wheel centered. You are also correct that it does not change the alignment.
Thanks Mike

Good idea...zerk to zerk.

How much did you bend it...just a moderate increase I assume. How did you bend it...?

Stan..
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:35 AM   #17
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Stan,
Yes I would call the bend I put in it a moderate increase. My purpose was to increase the turning radius and it does not take much of a bend in the rod to do that. If you look under your motorhome you have 4 hydraulic press's just pick the one you like the most and a couple of blocks of wood and press away.
Thanks Mike
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:44 AM   #18
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You might want to be carefull bending the drag links. Most are heat treated and when they bend they end up cracking.
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:53 AM   #19
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a k
Thanks for the disclaimer on this procedure.
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Old 11-17-2010, 01:19 PM   #20
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Stan,
Yes I would call the bend I put in it a moderate increase. My purpose was to increase the turning radius and it does not take much of a bend in the rod to do that. If you look under your motorhome you have 4 hydraulic press's just pick the one you like the most and a couple of blocks of wood and press away.
Thanks Mike

Ok Mike...thanks for the info.

Heh heh...I guess we do have some prety good portable presses don't we? Ha ha...good idea!

Did that help the turning radius considerably?

I don't guess it's easy to take a pic of yours is it? That would give me a visual of the angle increase.

...regarding the disclaimer...how long a go did you do this ? ..no cracks yet I assume?

Best regards..Stan M.
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Old 11-17-2010, 01:54 PM   #21
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Now wait a second--the more you bend the rod the shorter it gets and thus the throw gets shorter. You might get a shorter turn to the left but you cant have it both ways, unless you are suggesting an increased bend to the inside will give more tire clearance for a right turn???? Dont think I'd be bending a key steer component just to see if it works.
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Old 11-17-2010, 02:25 PM   #22
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Now wait a second--the more you bend the rod the shorter it gets and thus the throw gets shorter. You might get a shorter turn to the left but you cant have it both ways, unless you are suggesting an increased bend to the inside will give more tire clearance for a right turn???? Dont think I'd be bending a key steer component just to see if it works.


No, the length remains the same after you readjust the threaded ends. Just measure zerk to zerk before you bend it...then adjust the ends to the same measurement/length you started with (as per post by Mkelly)...and yes, you increase the bend to the inside to give it more tire clearance for a right turn.

Mkelly has done it and it did work for him...

Also 2003 models and later already have a more significant bend than the early models mentioned in the beginning post....mine is a 2001. Evidently 2003 is the first year of the increased bend.

Alpine is the one that determined that they needed to be bent more.....I believe someone said that's when they started started advertising the 50 degree turning radius. (..after the drag link bend increase)

Stan..
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:15 PM   #23
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I bent it 2 years ago and I matched the bend of a 04 that was visiting at the time. And yes it really helped the turning radius.
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:31 PM   #24
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I bent it 2 years ago and I matched the bend of a 04 that was visiting at the time. And yes it really helped the turning radius.

That's good information Mike...thanks very much. I'm going to go that route...I really "need" a better turning radius..

I checked with Visone RV salvage today to see if their salvage 2003 Alpine had a drag link...no luck. Sure wish I had a pattern...I'm afraid I might bend the one I have too much..

Stan..
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:17 PM   #25
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Mine is bent and rubbed when I had the front end aligned because the bend was positioned out when the mech was finished. Didn't notice it until I had to make a hard right turn and the tire rubbed. Since it adjusts the steering wheel position, I turned it 180 degrees to put the bend inward...a half turn didn't affect steering wheel position hardly at all and it is fine now.
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Old 11-18-2010, 01:01 AM   #26
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The early drag links were made w/a 5 bend.
Later models came w/ 14 bends. So later model owners get an additional 9 WOO HOO!!! Its all about the degrees, right? This was done as stated earlier to allow an additional 5 or so of wheel turn w/out tire rubbing on the drag link.

And yes, the angle in the link should point toward the frame, not toward the street.

The added kink in the link, and the heavier tube used on later models makes the off-center-of-gravity caused by the large bend make the tube sag and put pressure on the grease boots of the ball joints (earlier model links are less prone to this sag). Many later model links suffer blown grease boots which will then allow grit into the ball joint and wear it out. Some may experience a clanging noise on chattery pavement which can be traced to the link flopping up & down w/the road chatter and telegraphing the metallic clang to the frame. This can be alleviated by tying the link upward to the bolts at the top of the bulkhead forward of the FL tire; use a trucker's bungee and wrap it around the link, hooked back to the bungee on the lower end and up to the bolt at the upper end. This elastic is enough to provide the needed counter-balance to the kink-in-the-link to keep pressure off the grease boots and to keep a sloppy link from clanging up & down.

I doubt WRV had the tube hardened, as I can't see an advantage to hardening. Some links are made of cast material which would likely be less malleable to begin with, but these are made of tube. Likely the link mfgr used a mandrel or bend collar to prevent kinking the tube, and that would be a good precaution if bending yours.
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:21 AM   #27
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Mine is bent and rubbed when I had the front end aligned because the bend was positioned out when the mech was finished. Didn't notice it until I had to make a hard right turn and the tire rubbed. Since it adjusts the steering wheel position, I turned it 180 degrees to put the bend inward...a half turn didn't affect steering wheel position hardly at all and it is fine now.
Thanks Steve..

Thats what I was planning on doing, for now ...but I was concerned how much it would alter the steering wheel position.

I'm relieved to hear that it didn't change it much. I HATE a crooked steering wheel.

best regards...Stan
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:28 AM   #28
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Emike, Thanks for the clanking cure suggestion simple enough.
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