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Old 11-18-2010, 08:31 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by EngineerMike View Post
The early drag links were made w/a 5 bend.
Later models came w/ 14 bends. So later model owners get an additional 9 WOO HOO!!! Its all about the degrees, right? This was done as stated earlier to allow an additional 5 or so of wheel turn w/out tire rubbing on the drag link.

And yes, the angle in the link should point toward the frame, not toward the street.

The added kink in the link, and the heavier tube used on later models makes the off-center-of-gravity caused by the large bend make the tube sag and put pressure on the grease boots of the ball joints (earlier model links are less prone to this sag). Many later model links suffer blown grease boots which will then allow grit into the ball joint and wear it out. Some may experience a clanging noise on chattery pavement which can be traced to the link flopping up & down w/the road chatter and telegraphing the metallic clang to the frame. This can be alleviated by tying the link upward to the bolts at the top of the bulkhead forward of the FL tire; use a trucker's bungee and wrap it around the link, hooked back to the bungee on the lower end and up to the bolt at the upper end. This elastic is enough to provide the needed counter-balance to the kink-in-the-link to keep pressure off the grease boots and to keep a sloppy link from clanging up & down.

I doubt WRV had the tube hardened, as I can't see an advantage to hardening. Some links are made of cast material which would likely be less malleable to begin with, but these are made of tube. Likely the link mfgr used a mandrel or bend collar to prevent kinking the tube, and that would be a good precaution if bending yours.
EM:
Allrightey then! Something tangible to work with...14 degrees..
I have a friend that has a good hydraulic bender. Does roll cages and the like. I'm pretty sure that it has degree incliments on the machine. Piece of cake to alter this piece if it does, and the applied pressure would be evenly placed and easier to control.

Do you know how much bigger diameter the later model drag links are compared to my 2001 model?

Thanks..Stan...
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Old 11-19-2010, 07:34 PM   #30
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Stan- The late model links are 46mm or 1.81" o.d. Don't know the earlier o.d., maybe you can post it?
I believe both old & new take 1.125" threaded tie rod ends (don't know if that's the major, or minor thread diameter, or the unthreaded rod o.d., so the following is an approximation) giving ~0.34" wall thickness on the later link tube. Earlier link tube is visibly thinner.
The later link is noted as having a 7,600# buckling limit (don't know if that's working or ultimate strength). W/the tube o.d. I could calculate it.
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Old 11-20-2010, 10:10 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by EngineerMike View Post
Stan- The late model links are 46mm or 1.81" o.d. Don't know the earlier o.d., maybe you can post it?
I believe both old & new take 1.125" threaded tie rod ends (don't know if that's the major, or minor thread diameter, or the unthreaded rod o.d., so the following is an approximation) giving ~0.34" wall thickness on the later link tube. Earlier link tube is visibly thinner.
The later link is noted as having a 7,600# buckling limit (don't know if that's working or ultimate strength). W/the tube o.d. I could calculate it.

Thanks Mike..

I don't have the link off so I can't provide the tube wall thickness...but the tube diameter mics at 1.511 "...probably an even 1.50" if it was unpainted bare clean metal..

Stan...
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Old 11-20-2010, 01:29 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by StansCustoms View Post
In that case..wouldn't the bend be toward the frame ..or "in" Wally?

Stan..
Heres a picture of my link about 5 degree bend, angled out. My tires are 275 80R 22.5. not sure what final angle my stops are set at but my tires don't rub when when turned to the right all the way to the stops. Before bending your link you may want to check your stops. Hopefully a picture will make up for any deficits in my communication skills.

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Old 11-20-2010, 06:40 PM   #33
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Heres a picture of my link about 5 degree bend, angled out. My tires are 275 80R 22.5. not sure what final angle my stops are set at but my tires don't rub when when turned to the right all the way to the stops. Before bending your link you may want to check your stops. Hopefully a picture will make up for any deficits in my communication skills.

IMG_0030.jpg (208.0 KB)
A thousand words indeed..

Thanks Wally...

Yep mine is bent about that much. Only problem is that my drag link is rotated 180 degrees, and the tire rubs it when you turn hard right. I'm sure the stops are correct when it is turned correctly...right now the tire hits the drag link before it has a chance to hit the stops.

Even with it turned correctly...it could use some more turning radius...I am thinking about trying to improve it as well as just returning it to its correct position.

Your pic verifies what we have been discussing...the bend needs to be next to/toward the frame.

Best regards..Stan
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Old 11-20-2010, 07:22 PM   #34
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EMike suggested the bungee fix to me when he installed the steering box stiffener kit to my coach. The rubber bungee has been in place for about a year and a half now and is functioning as advertised. Simple smart idea.
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