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Old 11-01-2010, 12:58 PM   #1
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2001 Alpine, Generator slide adjustment

The trouble light/buzzer indicating the generator slide is extended, stays on. The issue is that the generator slide is "in" all the way on the passenger side...but likes 3/4" on the drivers side. There is a button on the drivers side that the slide depresses when it closes all the way. I need to adjust the slide where it closes a little more on that side to contact the button.

Can anyone tell me how this is done? It appears that the left slide has a adjustable nut on the ram (inside the slide bar). I expect that is where it is done but would like to be sure..

Anyone?

Thanks ..Stan
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Old 11-01-2010, 07:01 PM   #2
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Don't touch anything until you have read the HWH documentation. Check out document ML16463 at HWH Room Extension Cylinder Replacement
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Old 11-01-2010, 07:21 PM   #3
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Don't touch anything until you have read the HWH documentation. Check out document ML39247 at HWH Room Extension Cylinder Replacement

Thanks John..

I don't see any reference to making one side pull in a little farther. Looks like room cylinders are self centering.

I don't know if the gen slide works the same way or not. If it does it I don't see how to pull it in more evenly.... Of course there may be a way to do it with stops on one side or another ...but I don't see any that could be used in an adjustment manner, only as a stop..

I'm sure I can figure out what has to be done...but it is not readily evident. I was hoping that this had been dealt with before. I suspect it is simple to do....of course a small spacer could be added quite easily, then the buzzer and light would go off.

Thanks..Stan
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:26 PM   #4
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Stan, the gen slide works the same way. I assume that the problem has not been there from day one so all the mechanical adjustments should not have changed. Has a cylinder or hose been replaced recently? In which case they need to be re-balanced as per the HWH documentation. Is the driver's side 3/4" farther out when the slide is fully extended? Go to HWH Parts Index
Select "Room Extension Systems", go down the list and click on "western recreational vehicles" (2 0f 2). Now select MR41.2003 and this will show you how the cylinders are connected to the generator slides. Check the other documents if this doesn't match your setup as each Alpine seems to be different. If all this fails to help you can call HWH and ask them.
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Old 11-02-2010, 08:30 PM   #5
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Stan,
I have had to have my gen extention adjusted two times. First time was at the Newport Rally in 2007, at that time WRV was still in operation and a WRV person adjusted it. The second time was a few months ago at Uhlmann's RV. They were an Alpine dealer. You can call them and I'm sure they would be willing to talk you through the adjustment. Clayton was the tech that did the adjustment. Their # is: 1-800-245-5378. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:34 PM   #6
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Stan, the gen slide works the same way. I assume that the problem has not been there from day one so all the mechanical adjustments should not have changed. Has a cylinder or hose been replaced recently? In which case they need to be re-balanced as per the HWH documentation. Is the driver's side 3/4" farther out when the slide is fully extended? Go to HWH Parts Index
Select "Room Extension Systems", go down the list and click on "western recreational vehicles" (2 0f 2). Now select MR41.2003 and this will show you how the cylinders are connected to the generator slides. Check the other documents if this doesn't match your setup as each Alpine seems to be different. If all this fails to help you can call HWH and ask them.

Algome..

No ...no hoses replaced that I can tell. Looks untouched. But...I've only had the coach a week or so. I guess it was this way all along. I'm just now getting all the maintenance and check out done. The buzzer was a low air warning I thought, since I've only driven it a few miles. It would shut off after a bit...go figure?

Fortunately ..I was able to contact the previous owner and get his service records. (even though I boufght it from a dealer).

Real nice folks...loved the coach but got their heads ripped off on every little repair, and decided to buy a Airstream towable. They seemed really glad that someone got it that was really proud of it, (me), and gladly told me all the knew about it.

They were quoted $3,000 to get a fuel lift pump replaced. I bought one today for $275. (the old one was seeping a little). I can put it on in an hour or so. They had someone flush the brake lines and install fresh brake fluid...$600. Same guys pulled the wheels and cleaned the brake
sensors...another $600. Lubrication filters, and a new radiator hose..cost them $2400.

So far I haven't found much that it needs...it will soon need nothing.

Thanks ..Stan
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Old 11-02-2010, 09:36 PM   #7
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Stan,
I have had to have my gen extention adjusted two times. First time was at the Newport Rally in 2007, at that time WRV was still in operation and a WRV person adjusted it. The second time was a few months ago at Uhlmann's RV. They were an Alpine dealer. You can call them and I'm sure they would be willing to talk you through the adjustment. Clayton was the tech that did the adjustment. Their # is: 1-800-245-5378. Hope this helps.
Thats a "great big" help Jeff...I bet the tech can tell me in two minutes what I need to know! I'll call them tomorrow.

Thanks a bunch

Stan..
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:17 PM   #8
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Mine is electric, but here is my guess based on my fuzzy recollection that the rams tie to the front cap via rectangular steel tubes that have a round cutout on either outside face.
Inside the round cutout you can see the threaded end of the hydraulic ram rod, captured to the tube w/two nuts (one to each side of a vertical plate that is welded to the upper & lower sides of the tube). You could apply some adjustment to the cap via this connection by threading the nuts the 3/4" toward the hydraulic ram (extend more thread) if there is enough thread left. However, like Algoma suggests, I'm guessing this was within adjustment at one time and some form of malfunction moved it out. My first guess is air in the system that will need to be bled.
Another guess is that the gen slide takes an equalizer cylinder plus two ram cylinders; the equalizing cylinder acts to send same amount of fluid to each side ram cylinder. You'll need the correct bleed procedure for that system if its air introduced to the hydraulics.
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:24 PM   #9
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Mine is electric, but here is my guess based on my fuzzy recollection that the rams tie to the front cap via rectangular steel tubes that have a round cutout on either outside face.
Inside the round cutout you can see the threaded end of the hydraulic ram rod, captured to the tube w/two nuts (one to each side of a vertical plate that is welded to the upper & lower sides of the tube). You could apply some adjustment to the cap via this connection by threading the nuts the 3/4" toward the hydraulic ram (extend more thread) if there is enough thread left.

(Mike, That is the way it looks ...your memory is dead on. SM)

However, like Algoma suggests, I'm guessing this was within adjustment at one time and some form of malfunction moved it out. My first guess is air in the system that will need to be bled.

(I'm hoping that is not the case...but sure don't know..SM)


Another guess is that the gen slide takes an equalizer cylinder plus two ram cylinders; the equalizing cylinder acts to send same amount of fluid to each side ram cylinder. You'll need the correct bleed procedure for that system if its air introduced to the hydraulics.
(...now that sounds like some fun, I could do without..heh !)

Thanks..Stan..
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:50 PM   #10
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Stan:

That "low air" buzzer is telling you there isn't enough air in the front or rear airbags and warning you not to drive it until it is filled, usually about 30-45 seconds, unless there is a leak. (Your system may take longer to fill than mine. I've heard of 3 minutes.) Leaking systems will usually fill up eventually and the compressor will continue to work to keep up. You might test this out, and give your compressor a rest.
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:17 AM   #11
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Stan:

That "low air" buzzer is telling you there isn't enough air in the front or rear airbags and warning you not to drive it until it is filled, usually about 30-45 seconds, unless there is a leak. (Your system may take longer to fill than mine. I've heard of 3 minutes.) Leaking systems will usually fill up eventually and the compressor will continue to work to keep up. You might test this out, and give your compressor a rest.

Thanks
...that's what I "thought" it was too...

Turns out it is a slide buzzer activated or shut off when the button I mentioned is engaged/disengaged, hence the need for the slide to close a little more on the left...(needs to depress the button).

Best regards..Stan
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Old 11-03-2010, 09:55 PM   #12
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That would be the front slide buzzer. Does your coach not have an idiot light that accompanies the buzzers? Mine are labeled clearly: Front Air Low, Rear Air Low, Front Slide Open, Jacks Down, and probably a few more that I haven't set off, yet.
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Old 11-03-2010, 10:16 PM   #13
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That would be the front slide buzzer. Does your coach not have an idiot light that accompanies the buzzers? Mine are labeled clearly: Front Air Low, Rear Air Low, Front Slide Open, Jacks Down, and probably a few more that I haven't set off, yet.

Yes it does..
...but I wasn't familar with them all initially...and this one goes off after a few minutes. It took me a little while to get used to everything...that's when I noticed the slide extension warning.

After a couple of days fooling with everything..I've got it all mastered now. I haven't diven it but about 50/60 miles...a 20 mile test drive...about a 25 mile ride home..and a short excursion to fuel it up and put a couple of tires on it.

I'm waiting on a new slide topper now..then we are going a short breakin trip..200-300 miles or so.

In the mean time I'm installing a new fuel lift pump and a new crank shaft front seal...both of which I noticed spotting my driveway a little.

I power washed the engine this afternoon...and it should be powder dry on the bottom tomorrow. I'll see if anything else shows up then.

I'm just being nitpicky...I could have gotten by I guess..the leaks were pretty minute. I was mostly concerned that the pump leak might get worse...somewhere where it might be a buch harder to remedy. I'm not leaving till the slide topper gets here..so it gives me something to do in the mean time. Ya' right...like I haven't got plenty to do, ha hah!

Stan..
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Old 11-03-2010, 10:54 PM   #14
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.....After a couple of days fooling with everything..I've got it all mastered now.....

Stan..
I want to caravan with you!!! LOL!
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