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Old 01-06-2015, 09:13 PM   #1
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2005 Alpine 40 FDQS New to Us as of today

We have just purchased the Alpine today. It has 6 new tires (Triangle) and 10 new batteries that I have forgotten the brand but they are not Trojans, but they are all new!! We are still at the dealership and have a few issues that they going to take care of, they just changed fuel filters, and new belts, oil & filters both engine & onan. They are going to out source the brake fluid change and it scheduled to be done Thursday am. So I am still getting familiar with the coach, so where is the master cylinder located and the shaft that need to be greased for better operation of the brake. I do not want any brake problems so any advise and help from you folks would be appreciated. The DW and I love the interior and size of the coach, but the huge holding tanks and the 400 Cummins is what we were wanting also. The test drive was great and it sure is nice driving.
Thanks for all your help and advise!



Ralph
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Old 01-06-2015, 09:27 PM   #2
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Check this forum for issues specific to 05s--all are fixable. First 40+ 05s built had problems with size of bolts used to attach rear suspension to frame; 05s may have the low temp [blue] turbo pipe hoses/elbows vs the higher temp [orange]--should be replaced; most 04 and newer Alpines have issues with metal fatigue of bracket holding the steering knuckle; radiators on 05-07 can develop leaks; make sure the brake flush process includes wheels-off so outside caliper bleed screws can be accessed. Otherwise -- welcome to the World of Alpine--we love our coaches--also check out our website at AlpineCoachAssociation.com...and check out the rally schedules.
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Old 01-08-2015, 05:03 PM   #3
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The master cylinder is on the front firewall. Extend the generator slide and you will see it on the right top of the firewall.
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Old 01-08-2015, 05:16 PM   #4
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Welcome to the world of Alpine Coach ownership. You'll find plenty of support here and I also encourage you to join the Alpine Coach Association (ACA).
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:38 PM   #5
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As Wil has a 2005 I think it has been verified. The master cylinder was moved from under the floor to the bulkhead around then.
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:26 PM   #6
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Just to clarify--when WRV went to adjustable pedals [brake and fuel] in 2004, the master cylinder moved from inside the fender well to the front bulkhead. In doing so, the issue of required brake pressure began. Generally speaking, the original cylinder location in the fender well did not have the brake pedal pressure issue.
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:07 PM   #7
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I have located the master cylinder in the generator area. The brakes flushed today, we just got the RV back at 5:00 pm and of course we are spending first night in the RV with about half of the systems are working. I can't get the entry lights and ceiling lights working. The AC's will not power up at all, have tried to turn on while on generator and shop power. I have reset every breaker in both the panels and checked the fuses in the panel. The Amana is working and water heater is working. Not familiar enough with inverter to know for sure if it is working or not. I have reset the inverter at the main system and it shows the inverter enabled, float charge, charger is working. I have not disconnected the house batteries yet, but I am very willing to try it if necessary. Any suggestions??
2005 40FDQS
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:01 PM   #8
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The A/C's are on a time delay, of about 5 minutes. So if you have not left them turned on that long, you might not have a problem after all.

There are two 12 volt master switches. One is for the chassis batteries, and the other for the interior 12 volt systems. Make sure both are turned on. The thermostat for the A/C is 12 volt. Is there power to it? The inverter is wired to the coach battery bank, and likely does not go through the master switch.

As long as you are connected to shore power or running the generator, the inverter is not providing 120 volt power to anything. It only supplies power when you don't have shore power or the generator running. The next time you unplug from shore power, see if you have 120 volt power at the microwave or to the TV. That should tell you if the inverter is working.

Enjoy your new coach!!!!
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:02 PM   #9
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I am still trying to determine what is working and what isn't. The surge guard is showing 72 amps on one side and 0 amps on the other leg. I am thinking maybe a bad connection or a relay that is not working. I have tried to disconnect the house batteries at the door, where is the other disconnect? Even with generator running the load is not balanced on the surge guard display. So I will have a list of things for the Service Manager to look at tomorrow.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:07 PM   #10
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Ralph, I have a 05, 38FDTS. The inverter operation depends upon your settings. I leave mine enabled all the time, figuring that if shore power goes out my refer won't ( I have the residential refer). Your dealer should be able to help you with the setup. You should also be able to set up auto start (time of day or voltage from the battery bank) on the generator.

Be aware some of the interior lights are 12 volt DC, some are 120 volt AC. Also some of the 120 volt plugs are on the inverter some are NOT. The other cutoff switch (chassis batteries) is in the battery bay, but it is ONLY for the chassis batteries. Be careful, I got caught once, I had the chassis switch on, but the house switch off, the HWH jacks would not work, they are on the house batteries, cost me to get that worked out😱.

Check that you have power on both legs of your shore power cable AND are not using a 30 amp adapter, if you do, have the dealer look at the transfer switch, they get pitted and might not be passing both legs. Also I assume you made a typo, you should NEVER see 72 amps one one leg, if it is not a typo, check the surge guard.

Welcome to the forum, we are always glad to help.

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Old 01-08-2015, 11:36 PM   #11
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Folks, I put a EMS-PT50C, it is showing E0, L-1 118v 14amp & L-2 119v 6 amp, come inside and the Surge guard is showing 117 volt. 72 amp. 120 volt 0 amps and flashing open neutral. I think i have a bad or loose connection at surge guard or transfer switch.
Thanks will update with final solution.




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Old 01-11-2015, 10:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
Just to clarify--when WRV went to adjustable pedals [brake and fuel] in 2004, the master cylinder moved from inside the fender well to the front bulkhead. In doing so, the issue of required brake pressure began. Generally speaking, the original cylinder location in the fender well did not have the brake pedal pressure issue.
Could this comment be expanded upon inasmuch as whether (and how) required brake pressure is a good thing or not? Are you saying that pre-'04 models are easier braking?
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Old 01-12-2015, 09:03 AM   #13
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YUP--the change to adjustable pedals changed the mechanical geometry between the brake pedal and the master cylinder--less mechanical advantage. Preferred solution is to swap out the 2 inch OEM cylinder for a 1.75 inch piston cylinder--the result is about 30% improvement in pedal pressure required with minimal increase in pedal travel.
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