2005 Slide Outs

[Dave Stanley]

Hey guys, need some help...

One of our bedroom slide outs is sticking on one side as it first starts to extend, then it jumps a little and goes out all the way [ not really very far ] We have learned to just help it get started and it has been fine.

Now, we have a new problem that affects all three slideouts. When we first actuate the switches, nothing happens. After cycling the switches
2 - 3 times [ you can hear the solenoid clicking ] they act as they should have the first time.

Additionally, looking for help with emergency retracting them if they get stuck out. The manual talks of a crank mechanism which I do not have, and / or, opening some valve in the solenoid compartment with a tool I do not have and / or, to try pushing them in. Has anyone with a 2005 model ever had to manually retract the slides and how did you do it ?

Thanks pros,

[two sailors]

You will probably get a better detailed from other members but the first thing to do if don't have the HWH manual or instruction diagram is down load it from HWH or ACA web site.
I had bedroom slide problems once and after I got off the Freeway and out of the panic mode it was fairly easy. becareful of the wires off the solenoids I broke one off with all the messing around during a two week period of replacing hoses. The tool needed is actually part of the fill/dipstick cap. or a 1/4" socket. There is a diagram of which solenoids are which inside the pump compartment. The bedroom slide move very easely with the solenoid opened.
I don't have an answer for the non responce of the slide except run the pump a few seconds at end of the in or out cycle and check the oil level.
Brad

[NorCal C&H]

To deterime if your coach has the main slide retraction crank device (the bedroom slides do not have one) look on the ceiling of your storage compartments behind the main slide. If there is a crank and strap it is mounted there. In the area up behind the main slide (with the slide extended crawl under and look inboard towards the center of the coach) you should see a removable plug similar to the one your sewer hose and electrical cords pass through. This is where the retracting strap passes through to attach to the slide to pull it in once the slide solenoids are opened. Opening the solenoids does not require a special wrench or tool. You just have to identify the correct solenoid for the main slide from the schematic on the wall of the compartment and using your fingers (most likely it will take pliers to start) back the "T" shaped handle in the end of the solenoid out until you can retract the slide using the crank.

I had to do this on our 2003 and the hardest part was I didn't open the valve far enough and the retraction strap was a tight as a bow string. I found out later that if I had opened the valve another turn or more it would have been a LOT easier...

Now that I've said all this I'll let you know that although our 2006 has the hole and crank / strap WRV never installed the attachment bar and loop on the back side of the slide to attach to!

The bedroom slide is pushed in manually but a couple of tall and strong friends after opening it's solenoid bleed valve.

As to the hanging up and poping loose on extension. Mine does that a little. If it's too bad the slide can be adjusted with shims out behind the slide but you need to make certain there is sufficient clearance at all corners before you start making adjustments. While behind the slide looking for the retraction strap pass through hole you will see the shims in the ends of the slide boxes (?).

Harold

[Old Scout]

Unless they changed on the 2005, the jack solenoids have the t-handles, the slide solenoids have a 1/4" nut with a small center screw/bolt. Dont mess with the center screw, just turn the 1/4" nut [counter clock-wise--I think]. WRV says no more than 5 or 6 turns but you should hear/feel the fluid release. Since the slide rams are bi-directional, I think you need to release both the extend and retract solenoids for the affected slide in order to push it in manually.

[kraig]

It is possible you could have air in it. If you have been extending, retracting and stopping at each end, without holding a couple additional seconds in each direction. To get the air out, I would try extending it and holding a few seconds, the same on retract. Thats the way WRV did it. You may have to do this several times. Also, when you extend or retract the slides, don't stop.

One other tip about opening and close slideouts. Since Alpine Coaches are so tight, you should open a window or door for the pressure before you operate them. If you don't, on the retract, the pressure could push out through the vents, but not on the extend. If you don't, probably the weakest point is the window seals.

As as emergency retract for the galley slide, I don't have a hook or strap. I kind question if it is heavy for a 14' slide. I carry two 2' pieces chain with hooks. You can hook each chain around the end of each arm. Carry 2 come alongs attached to the frame and the loop in the chain and pull in evenly. It would be easier if you had 2 people. First open both the extend and retract solenoids. T handle jack solenoids can be opened all the way ok, but don't open slide solenoids all the way. That information is in the coach I can't get to right now.

Don't forget to close solenoids after retract or the slides can come open.

[tinytom]

Dave,

I just started having the same problem with my slides. Push the retract button get a click but no pump. It has happened twice now. Both times my rig was not plugged into shore power for a period of time. Battery was good and plenty of voltage but it surly was not the 13.5 volts you would get when you are plugged in. Both times the slides came in after trying it several times. I am begining to think the brushes may be bad in the pump. I am going to call HWH for advice. Any one else had this problem?

[Old Scout]

Switches, relays, HWH motherboard or control panel, and loose wire/cable connections could all contribute to this. Some older HWH pumps do have a problem with brushes [mounting brackets on brushes tend to get loose, arc, then deform--brushes get misaligned]. Their new pumps seem to run stronger [sound better????] and hopefully have overcome the brush issues. Depending on model year and pump location, this is a modestly challenging DIY project.

[dgerstel]

For the slide sticking problem see here: Slide Adjustment????

If you hear a click, but the motor doesn't start, I would first check the solenoids that are strapped on the pump motor. See if you have 12 volts at the motor, if there is then the motor is the problem.

[OldForester]

Another possibility, if one of your bedroom slides is not in alignment side to side, and you have hydraulic rams on both sides of the slide is that the rams are not synchronized. I can't speak to a 38', but in our 36' we had to synchronize the rams on both sides of the bedroom slide each time we replaced the hydraulic hoses. (a total of 4 times). There is a hydraulic ram located on each end of the wardrobe slide, and we synchronized them by hooking up the hoses, disconnecting the rams from the slide, and running the extend/retract switch in and out until the rams fully extended and retracted. It took about 4 extension/retraction cycles to get the rams so they extended and retracted simultaneously and then we hooked them back up to the rams. They worked fine after each set of hose changes and have done so for the last two years on the current set.

So if you have rams on each side of the slide, you might try this as a way to get both sides synchronized.

[Dale777]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinytom Dave, I just started having the same problem with my slides. Push the retract button get a click but no pump. It has happened twice now. Both times my rig was not plugged into shore power for a period of time. Battery was good and plenty of voltage but it surly was not the 13.5 volts you would get when you are plugged in. Both times the slides came in after trying it several times. I am begining to think the brushes may be bad in the pump. I am going to call HWH for advice. Any one else had this problem?

P
The clicking sound could be from a weak relay in the HWH compartment. HWH can help you determine a bad relay. There are 2 separate relays, one is continuous duty and the other is intermittent duty.

[EngineerMike]

I had the push/no-go intermittent for a while. Turned out it was a bad pump relay solenoid in the HWH compartment. this is one of the two solenoids strapped to the pump motor Dale mentions above. The OEM one is still strapped to the motor, but is now unused. I added a Cole-Hersee #24059 where it would mount easily near the pump motor and moved the cables to the C-H unit. Has been running sweet ever since.

Not sure when HWH started using the cheapo pump solenoids, but the above C-h is a good replacement IMO. Same C-H would substitute for the "Main" solenoid as well IMO. The older coaches have ???-White brand solenoids which are more durable, but way spendy compared to the C-H (like $75 vs $38 last time I checked). If my main ever goes out, I'm going to take all that wiring off the pump housing and install it alongside where I can get at everything w/out having to pay a chiropractor 2 year's annuity to get straightened out again.