Community Forums

jheitzenro · 03-25-2011, 07:11 AM

I would like to know where the pressure switch is per the above. Since I'm still having air leaks in my lower right module panel (one line/no air brakes)
I'm thinking it's a pressure issue. There's no way the plactic module will with stand 130 psi.
In addition, what happens if I cap off the line? Other than I get no warning about low air pressure. Is their some type of alarm that would need to be disabled?

Thank you very much in advance for your help!

John Heitzenroder
Cell 302 598 1999

OldForester · 03-25-2011, 06:17 PM

If it were me, I would not cap off the low pressure warning, much as I have experienced it.

Have you put a pressure gauge on the coach? If not, you can buy one for about $8 at Home Depot or Lowes and put it on the air drain chuck. It will tell you how much pressure you are building, and it should not be much more than 120 psi, if everything is factory. Above 120 psi the purge valve should work.

If you are building more than 120, then you might want to follow the low air suspension thread to see all the things you can check to get that under control. Primarily, it's the air pressure regulator on the top of the compressor, or the quick release valve that act to dump the excess air.

Are you sure the leak is coming from the control panel and not the parking brake switch? That's where most of them come from and just need the hose tightened.

If it's truly leaking at the module, you can call Actia in Elkhart, IN, and they will tell you how to take care of the module, and whether they can send you a new one or want you to send the panel back to them, as they did me on my turn signal clicker issue. It's relatively pain free; just takes about 10 days to do the whole thing and turn it around.

jheitzenro · 03-26-2011, 02:56 PM

OLd Forester,
Not sure if you got my reply today. So here's a shorter reply.

I got a air pressure gauge from Home Depot today. The coach max pressure is 120 psi.

I agree with your recommendation as NOT to cap off the low pressure line.
I put the old module back in place today because I want the pressure to build up so I can move my coach out side to wash. When I get the new module I will have my guy hook up the line.
I was satisified with my hook up today.

I will get my guy to put his young ear to the power boost and the park brake line.

Thanks again!

John

OldForester · 03-26-2011, 10:26 PM

Glad to hear your air max pressure was 120 psi. That's where it should be. Sounds like your regulator, compressor, and quick release valve are working, assuming the outside temperature is not too cold.

One thing to listen for -- is your air leak constant or do you just hear it during power up until the purge valve releases? If so, it could be just air building up and it sounds like a leak. Mine does that until the pressure is up.

If you're still having trouble tomorrow, PM me or let me know on the forum and I'll give you a call to see if it helps.

jheitzenro · 03-27-2011, 06:08 AM

Old Forester,

You may have hit on something about air noise during power up.
I put the orginal panel back in and the constant air noice was there, but no bubbles with the soap test. My shop is 55 degrees. The noise did get weak as the pressure build up. This is the module that my mechanic checked with air and soap and had several leaks. However, I don't know what air pressure he used. It's 30 degrees in Delaware/should be 55. I'm going to wash my coach shortly, so I will pay attention to start up. I will let you know.
I hope to get the new module from Patrick next week which I will install, and pay attention to air during start up, and put the old one in my "parts dept". If your return is within 30 days of purchase there's no charge.

We are not leaving DE for Destin and Tampa, FL until 4/26/11. Destin R & R, and Tampa/Lazydays to get my last fogged three windows cleaned and sealed. I had the other windows cleaned last year.

I keep looking at the steering bracket area and NO cracks as of yesterday!!!
Everything else is working great, and all service is up to date.

Thank you much for your help!!!

John

EngineerMike · 03-28-2011, 06:28 PM

I have a short lived hiss from the Actia air line nipple on engine start-up. I have undone the plastic line from it a few times for fun. The grip mechanism puts a pinched-in ring around the plastic line around which some air can escape until pressure builds up enough to expand the plastic line (my theory), as the hiss stops abruptly when pressure goes above a certain point. I don't lose any air after that.

jheitzenro · 03-30-2011, 06:39 AM

Thanks, Mike and Old Forester for your comments.

Patrick sent me a new module yesterday to replace the leaking one that I purchased two weeks ago.
We are going to install it as well as adding a 10 - 150 psi air gauge to the dash next week. We will leave extra tubing in the dash so that there's no strain on the fitting/air line.

Regards,
John

EngineerMike · 03-31-2011, 07:10 PM

John- trim off about 1/2" of the plastic air hose when installing the hose to the new module, i.e. enough to present the air nipple w/unblemished tubing surface. If the "cut-mark" from previous use would cause a leak (as is the case w/mine), that should cure it.
You can add a tee to the line, back ~3-4" from the Actia air nipple to run to an air gauge. I did that for a customer a while back when he was having air troubles. Its nice to be able to read a gauge, and I'll do that on mine "when I get time" ha, ha, ha, ho, ho, ho, hee, hee, hee....

jheitzenro · 04-01-2011, 02:50 AM

Mike,
Is a good quality hole saw the tool to use to cut the hole in the dash?
The Auto Meter air press. gauge requires a 2 1/16" hole. We added a power boost gauge on the right side of the dash 3 years ago, and there's room to install the air gauge to the right of the boost gauge.

Thanks,
John

takepride · 04-01-2011, 11:11 PM

This is the type hole saw I used. The smaller teeth and fixed size will save you from accidentally ruining the edges of the cut.

jheitzenro · 04-03-2011, 10:15 AM

Thanks,
The teeth size looks just like the holw saw I purchased. One more question,did you use the blue painters tape over the spot on the dash before drilling the hole?

Regards,
John

EngineerMike · 04-03-2011, 11:42 AM

John- that's what I used, a hole saw. IIRC the 2" size produced a slightly larger than 2" net hole size due to minor wobble, which mad the 2-1/16th gauge a perfect press fit (i.e. I didn't need to use the bracket on the back which would have been awkward installing it blind behind all the ducts & wiring of the dash. Measure carefully for the spot to begin the hole as it will be difficult to adjust location once the pilot hole is started.
I probed the strip of 12V studs just above the floor & in front of the PS seat on the firewall (behind plastic kick panel) for 12V that comes on w/ignition key ON. From one of those studs (I think there were 3 that followed that logic) I ran a new IGN-switched hot to the bulb for the gauge, and installed a new ground to one of the steering column bolts, then zip-tied wiring for neatness. I also applied a small zip-tie tag labeling the circuit (a practice I find invaluable every time I need to revisit any wiring in the neighborhood).

takepride · 04-03-2011, 05:40 PM

John:

The blue tape will help if you accidentally bump the surface while lining up the drill and for marking the spot where you'll start. It doesn't help keep the edges neat. Just drill at a slow speed as the hole saw will start to melt its way through and will require a little cleaning, if you go fast.

BTW, you can tell a good hole saw from bad by the way it wobbles (and the price). The cheaper one just requires more concentration when starting out. I have a whole drawer of cheap ones. When I drilled my dash, I bought a good one for fear of irreversibly damaging an irreplaceable part.

EngineerMike · 04-03-2011, 11:26 PM

A good hole saw strategy when you want to get neat & precise work is to drill the pilot hole first. When doing steering upgrades I drill the pilot hole a 32nd or so smaller than the 1/4" pilot drill size. The pilot bit then enlarges the center hole as it goes. When i'm really trying to get on point, I use a 1/8th or less first, then a larger, say 7/32, then chuck up the hole saw w/its 1/4 center bit. W/a good initial centering hole, you can get the large hole right where you want it.