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Old 06-02-2008, 09:21 PM   #1
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Hello All,
Well it's at it again. To access my systems, to level, put out slides, turn on autofill fresh water, you know the whole coach, it's run through the silverleaf display on the dash, or through the LCD TV if 110V is present. Now, no system is available to work from the dash unit. Know there are manual overrides, for the hydraulic system, found how to do that one, but the other systems don't have a clue. Will call dealer tomorrow for the reset switch, because the better half is ready to take this thing and drive it through the dealers front door, and tell them we want our money back. Dealer had it for two weeks after puchase for so called PDI, trip to Montana for one week, fire under the stove runined that, need to have replaced, leaking lights above windshield gives water tracks when it's raining, dealer fixed once, now it is doing it again. Wrote them 4 page letter about defects needing repair, assume letter is going to be delivered tomorrow, so should get phone call by wednesday - had better, just itching for a fight. Just got back from Cummings for engine valve cover and fuel line bracket recalls, they found turbo bolt had come out, replaced and tested for leaks. They also checked the coolant, put in 5 units of the DCA stuff. Dealer had coach for about 20 months trying to sell it, wish we had walked away from this one, think I have the coach from the hot place. Any help would be appreciated, will also call silverleaf to see if there is a reset switch for it as well. Showing tire error too.
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Old 06-02-2008, 09:21 PM   #2
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Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 2,226
Hello All,
Well it's at it again. To access my systems, to level, put out slides, turn on autofill fresh water, you know the whole coach, it's run through the silverleaf display on the dash, or through the LCD TV if 110V is present. Now, no system is available to work from the dash unit. Know there are manual overrides, for the hydraulic system, found how to do that one, but the other systems don't have a clue. Will call dealer tomorrow for the reset switch, because the better half is ready to take this thing and drive it through the dealers front door, and tell them we want our money back. Dealer had it for two weeks after puchase for so called PDI, trip to Montana for one week, fire under the stove runined that, need to have replaced, leaking lights above windshield gives water tracks when it's raining, dealer fixed once, now it is doing it again. Wrote them 4 page letter about defects needing repair, assume letter is going to be delivered tomorrow, so should get phone call by wednesday - had better, just itching for a fight. Just got back from Cummings for engine valve cover and fuel line bracket recalls, they found turbo bolt had come out, replaced and tested for leaks. They also checked the coolant, put in 5 units of the DCA stuff. Dealer had coach for about 20 months trying to sell it, wish we had walked away from this one, think I have the coach from the hot place. Any help would be appreciated, will also call silverleaf to see if there is a reset switch for it as well. Showing tire error too.
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:21 PM   #3
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Well, it turns out I called Silverleaf. The temperture sensor has been corroded and was causing the system to stay in fault mode. If anyone is interested in the long story of this, send me a message, I will be glad to report. It's working again, and they are going to send me new version of the black box, and a new temp sensor, I will figure out a better way to install it so it does not get wet and corrode again.
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Old 06-26-2008, 10:14 AM   #4
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yes this is a common problem with the apex... WRV has the temp sensor (circuit board) hanging under the coach... this sensor is designed and manufactured for interior use and can not withstand the elements of being mounted out doors... I always move that sensor inside the bay to keep it away from the elements of the outdoors...please let us know if we can help with anything else...
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Old 06-26-2008, 09:13 PM   #5
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Here is what I did. I purchased some PVC 3/4" pipe, took a 4" nipple and had the fellow at store, thread it almost all the way along. Then I took a metal 3/4" pipe flange and screwed this up into the flange. I got a 3/4" thread cap, teflon taped the threads and closed up this hole at the bottom. I slid the connected sensor down into this hole, put Polybutlene tape on the flange and screwed it down into the same original hole WRV had drilled in the floor. I then took a 90 degree elbow, attached it, and put a short nipple out of that. It looks like an "L" coming out of the floor. It gives me the outside reading, but cannot get wet, it's open up top so water won't condense in it. I'm thinking I should maybe seal the hole where the wires come out, but then condensation might form, so unless I get a real good reason to close it I'm leaving it open. I should silicone around the flange, but have not done it yet. Wanted to see if this assebly hold up and solves the problem. I should have used 1" pipe, but made the 3/4" work.
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Old 06-27-2008, 04:50 AM   #6
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Silverleaf Tim, Hey guy, long time no see.

What is the function of this temp sensor other than the outside temp indication on my TV screen I never look at?

The new generation tank sensors continue to work well.
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Old 06-27-2008, 08:26 AM   #7
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hey there Basil, ya long time no see how have u guys been? you going to the st. paul show? if so I will see ya out there.... that is great the new sensors are still working well... I have been switching quite a few apex's over recently... well hope to see ya at the show...safe travels
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Old 06-27-2008, 08:27 AM   #8
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oh ya and the temp sensor is just that... it just ready "outside air temp" on your hms-tv...I believe yours is in the tank bay now though if I remember right
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Old 06-27-2008, 09:30 AM   #9
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If I had to opine, I'd say that an outside temp sensor not designed for outside use isn't very good design. If you mount it in an interior bay, it is insulated from true outside temp, and won't read correctly; if you mount it "outside", you have to twist thru bizzaro gymnastics to find a place that's not really "outside" so the gizmo doesn't snafu. Seems like a true outside design would serve better.

Good thing I don't have to opine.
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:18 PM   #10
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I'd agree with you, but then I did not design this thing, and a true outside temperture sensor, does not cost much, and it's deisgned for the outside, simple logic.

However, I won't know if my fix has solved the problem, becuuse it is the dry season here, and won't know unitl I drive through some wet weather. As long as the water cannot get into the pipe, and consdesation does not build up, I should be ok.

Now What about the new generation tank guages, and how hard is it to change them out. Mine are eratic, and show different levels most of the time.
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Old 07-01-2008, 04:54 AM   #11
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Now What about the new generation tank guages </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The tank sensors are industrial quality brass units and easy to change out. Requires some brass adapter fittings since they are smaller.Simply remove the old sensors, clean up the mess because you forgot to drain & flush the tanks, screw in the new ones and plug in the cable. The Silverleaf tank sensor box must also be reprogrammed. Since you are close, you could pop down and have Silverleaf do it.

Mine contunue to work well after 6+ months of full time use.
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Old 07-01-2008, 02:28 PM   #12
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hi, outside temp sensors are in-expensive however they do not make one in an I2c version which is how that port on the tm-102 communicates... on the tank gauges topic they are quite easy to install yourself or if you will be at any of the upcoming rallies we may be able to arrange something... where are you currently located? feel free to call us as well..541-967-8111
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Old 07-01-2008, 02:29 PM   #13
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good to hear basil... we have not had any fail to date so.... so far so good... you going to the st paul rally?
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Old 07-01-2008, 03:20 PM   #14
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Silverleaf Tim, when we picked up our coach in Oregon back in March, the tech discussed with you the possibility of converting us to the new tank gages. I would still like to consider that option as the existing ones have never shown anything (gray and black) but empty, this even when I know they should show something. He mentioned the need to change the sending units on the tanks plus change the remote unit. Is this a do it myself project, or do I need to arrange someone to do it for me? I am rather handy (have built space instruments).
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