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Old 07-03-2011, 01:44 AM   #15
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Mary Ann:

Make sure your inverter/charger is not trying to charge your batteries. You can either disable it at the panel, or depending on which inverter you have, set the power share down to 15 or 20 amps. That will force the charger off, unless nothing else is running.

The charger on my Xantrex RS 300 can pull as much as 150 DC Amps, which translates to 12.5 or better amps (efficiency loss) off the A/C feed.

BTW, welcome to our forum. I hope you also choose to join ACA (Alpine Coach Association) or even a local sub-chapter. That website contains lots of technical information and answers, as well as opportunities for fellowship. I know you'll find the members even more friendly (and intelligent and good-looking and... ) than your Lazy Daze group. We look forward to your input, and feel free to ask as many questions as you'd like. You'll find lots of answers by doing a "search" on the forum, since we've been documenting problems and issues for a number of years. It takes a while, but you might eventually read through the entire archive.
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Old 07-03-2011, 07:19 AM   #16
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Dr H--the two main issues when trying to power the coach via a 120v 15 amp extension cord [10 amp std or 20 amp heavy duty] is the inverter/charger [already mentioned-- which can pull as much as 20 amps trying to charge bats], and less obvious-- the hot water heater [usually on unless you shut-off breaker in bathroom]. Depending on length of the extension cord, even things like the mirco wave going thru "wake-up" pulls pretty good amps. Again, a std gauge by 100ft extension cord might give you 10 amps of useable power on the other end.
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Old 07-03-2011, 02:06 PM   #17
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Mary Ann:

Old Scout brings up two very good points (I always forget about the darn water heater). Make sure your extension cord is the shortest and fattest cord you can get. For length and reduced cost, I purchased a 50' 30 amp extension cord (#10 AWG). With that, you make the final reduction down to 20 amp plug and know you have the best setup. An even shorter cord will work better, but is less usable in campground situations. Remember, there is huge drop in available power as the wire gets thinner and longer. The amps are what's likely tripping your breaker.
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Old 07-03-2011, 02:12 PM   #18
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Milt: Well, I would suppose this group may be more friendly, and surely the intelliegent, good looking part, is probably also true! However, going from the best of the Class C, up to a coach that has a pretty good--while short--history of being one of the best in the diesel line up, is still a huge step up for us.

As stated previously on the Newmar group, our first was a Class A, which was gas, then thought in 2005, that wow, it didn't really have any problems, let's buy this great National product, like we had, and jump up a bit. Huge mistake! One trip in the brand new 2005 Dolphin LX, and I was at the president's door, telling him it was a lemon and that they would be taking it back. While it took six months and some money for the lawyer, we were successful and about 4 months later, they went under.

While owning that one, we also got the 2000 Lazy Daze, knowing it was at the top of the Class C coaches. Nice coach, 30', rode great, but still liked the room of the three slides in the 2005 lemon. So even last year, we were considering moving to a slide type coach, looking mostly at the Newmar gas, Country Coach and Alpine. Had a couple deals that didn't seem quite right, go away, until we spotted the Alpine we now have. While it is a '03, it appears there wasn't a lot of major changes in the last few years of this product, otherthan upgrades to water system, slides and compartment trays. Since it looks great inside and out, we believe it is a keeper.

We were a little worried when getting home and thinking it was level, and the slides bound up, refusing to extend very much. Guess it really likes to be very level! Then the plug in issue. We actually solved it by turning everything off, then adding breakers to see what would break the breaker at the post. It is new wiring, wired for 30amps, but at the post I didn't put the 30amp plug in there, just two sets of regular GFI outlets.

The 40' covered pad does have the correct plug--well a 30amp that will require an adaptor--so think that the few things I might run out there should be alright. If I leave the inverter on to charge the batteries, plus, say the refrig, I am guessing that might blow it, too?

Anyway, I couldn't believe the post connection was bad, as the Lazy Daze worked fine from it, but also know it is a 30amp drawing vehicle. Nevertheless, it was fine, so was concerned when nothing was running (although breakers were on) and bam, it blew.

So the load sharing may have to be what I use when in the RV pad. I am just hoping it will FIT in the pad. The Dolphin was 37', and a couple inches lower, and fit. However, this one has the satelite on front/center. I don't think it will be an issue, though, as the covering is much higher at that point. Usually, I backed the LD in, so this may be a challenge for me. Plug in on that side (when backed in); time will tell!

I checked out the ACA site before and now that we have the coach, ran off the club stuff for NoWACA, and plan the first event, which will be in July of next year. Our long trip this summer prevents any other events.

Also ran off the wiring diagrams from ACA, and the list of parts from that place in Washington, that bought up remaining WRV materials. There are a couple of buddy seats listed, as ours does not have the foot rest. Debra is short and cant touch the floor, so either see if the ones they have would have one, or maybe go to a shop that makes furniture for RVs, to see if they can add the foot rest...

So, for now, we are beginning the sorting of "stuff" to see what we can add to the basement areas. Hope to add another slide try (one was added) and go from there.

Thank you again, and right now, not sure I have the time to read all the archieves, as we have some Alpining to do! DrH
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Old 07-03-2011, 07:30 PM   #19
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FWIW - when I bring my coach home to work on it or get it ready for a trip, I use a 100' extension cord plugged into our home inside outlet (to avoid the outside GFI). I use a typical 30 Amp adapter pigtail and a 110/15 Amp adapter on the coach end.

The engine shut-off is "On" and the house shut-off is "On". The water heater is "Off'. The residential frig is typically "Off" but I even turn it "On" when getting ready for a trip. The inverter/charger keeps the batteries at float level (13.5V). No problems!

Perhaps I'm just "lucky" (but that doesn't run in our family!).
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Old 07-03-2011, 09:23 PM   #20
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Three things caught my eye in your last discussion: 1--doesnot matter how level the coach is, the jacks must be down and leveled in order for the main room slide to extend [bedroom slide[s] should work with or without the jacks down] If this isnt working, check yr HWH hydraulic fluid level; 2--as mentioned earlier you can set the power share function on your inverter/charger to share minimum amps with the rest of yr coach--this will keep yr bats charged over the long haul and not blow breakers [just remember to reset to full power share when you run yr genset or are on 50 amp shore power]; and 3--if you do need to use an extension cord of modest length, the configuration I like is a 50' 30amp cord from Camping World. The 30 amp cord works great for any and all 30 amp applications and by buying a female 30 to 20amp pigtail, you can turn it into a really, really, heavy duty extension cord for yr maximum 20 amp applications [assumes you already have the male 30 to 20amp pigtail with you current cordage config].
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Old 07-05-2011, 03:08 AM   #21
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What I actually did was take the coach cord over to my post outlet, added the stepdown ends and plugged directly into the post. Nothing was on, then turned on the microwave/convection, just to see what would happen. It blew the GFI.

I did not turn on the inverter to sharing. So, since the biggest cord possible was used, and it still blew, I just said phewee, and went back to my orange cord, step downs, and just kept the frig going.

As I learn more about this coach, and while I am only on the driveway a short time, I don't think I have to make major electrical changes to the post. It does have the 30 amp power coming to it, and then it goes on out to my RV pad, to a 30 amp plugin....

So with one step down out there, I would gather I will have enough to keep my fridge going, if I want, and then use a small heater in the winter, to keep the chill off the coach.

Any suggestions are certainly appreciated. My next door neighbor is pretty good on all this, but just as we brought the coach home, he was leaving on a weekend trip, and didn't get to pick his brain too much. He has a 40' Fleetwood Revolution.

I just joined the local Alpine club, NoWACA. I will look into adding the main ACA in the near future. The first event for us won't happen until next July, as we are planning a long trip back East in August and will miss their last yearly one that is local.

Anyway, I will be watching this site and checking the readings on issues I need to understand. Need to get a ladder, for one thing, and already noticed the posting on ladders with this group. Lots of information. DrH
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Old 07-06-2011, 03:04 PM   #22
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I just turn the thermostat for one of them to highest like 99 i think and the other down to 72and when that room is cool I reverse the settings..the one set on 99 fan will operate but not the compressor
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Old 07-06-2011, 03:27 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Wrinklemeist View Post
Our 40'fdts has 50 amp plug in like all the other Alpines, I assume. I have heard of some method, or device, that will allow the use of both a/c units when youare inan RV park that only has 30 amp service. Is there such a thing?
Thanks,
Mike
Need to check to see if you can run both just as you are. I labored under the assumption I could only run 1 on 30 Amp as was case with my old gasser.

Then parked in my son's driveway I found my wife had both airs on! But my son has installed a very good 30 AMP circuit that was his water heater before he converted to gas. I would assume it would have to be a good circuit to take the startup load jump which I understand is more than 18 AMPs and that you had not other draining stuff running like the electric water heater.
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Old 07-06-2011, 03:48 PM   #24
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Hover over image to zoom







50-Amp RV Box Adapter

Catalog Item # 25774 This Item is In-Stock and Ready to Ship

President's Club SALE $69.99


From Camping world.. in the electrical adapters section.. www.campingworld.com
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Old 07-06-2011, 04:19 PM   #25
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When I owned a Fleetwood Pace Arrow Vision, it came with a Fleetwood proprietary circuit that would allow use of both AC units on 30 amp service. It would automaticaly cycle one then the other such that the surge current would not hit the circuit at the same time (that is why we need such a high capacity circuit for the AC units), I have not checked, but it would not surprise me to see an aftermarket item that works like the Fleetwood circuit. If one were available, I would consider installation of it for the many times that 30 amp is all that is available on hot days.
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Old 07-06-2011, 11:51 PM   #26
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The A/Cs will work on 30 amp only, assuming nothing else is on and the units aren't working too hard. As you may recall, your generator is only 35 amps at the breaker (and works fine). Two problems are: 1) loading all the amps on one phase (at a pedestal), and 2) being short those 5 amps that your genset has.

I've had it work okay at times, and other times the 30 amp pedestal will pop. It can also be affected by other folks using the same system.

When working the A/Cs hard, you can still trip your generator's breaker, if you don't turn off the electric side of the water heater, or use the microwave, blow dryers, etc.
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:12 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melorene View Post
Hover over image to zoom









50-Amp RV Box Adapter

Catalog Item # 25774 This Item is In-Stock and Ready to Ship

President's Club SALE $69.99


From Camping world.. in the electrical adapters section.. www.campingworld.com

These only work if you have 2, 30 amp circuits to tie into. If you go to a 20 or smaller circuit for one leg, it will trip the GFI. I have had one for 4 years, never found a place it would work, so save your money.
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