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Old 09-30-2013, 06:16 AM   #43
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]I had a problem with my ShurFlo 5.7 cycling so I decided to rebuild it. The rubber valve assembly had deposits on it that was causing the leak down under pressure which was causing the pump to cycle. I went online and found that Arizona wind and sun sells ShurFlo diaphragm valve kits at low prices.
The pump now works like new after a very easy and cheap fix!
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:34 PM   #44
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I replaced mine with a Remco Industries pump. It work just fine.
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:41 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjshively View Post

I replaced mine with a Remco Industries pump. It work just fine.
Remco is the company that took over making and distributing the Aqua-Jet RV water pumps now.

http://www.remcoindustries.com/Corpo...?f=Aquajet.php

55AQUAJET-ARV is the correct model to get for the RV.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:15 PM   #46
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Now that I have been using my Aquajet 5.3 for a while, I have found that it knocks a lot when first starting up. Once pressure is established, it is fairly quiet. I have found that it does not lose pressure while traveling nor pull as much current as the Shurflo 5.7's did.
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:32 PM   #47
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Now that I have been using my Aquajet 5.3 for a while, I have found that it knocks a lot when first starting up. Once pressure is established, it is fairly quiet. I have found that it does not lose pressure while traveling nor pull as much current as the Shurflo 5.7's did.
Hey Capt.

Is the pump actually knocking or is it a pipe or two that is causing the knock?

My Aqua-Jet is really quiet most of the time except when the water level gets too low in the fresh water tank.

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Old 09-30-2013, 10:39 PM   #48
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I'm on my 4th or 5th (kind of lost track) Shurflo 5.7 since the coach was new in 2004. All under warranty but like was stated above it gets a little tiring doing all the changes. Either the pumps would leak into the storage compartment, would run very silently until it got hot and shut off completely even when the faucets were shut off, ran very eirratic, and the water flow would be more like the cheaper ones - on and off while faucet was on.
The current one has lasted over a year and half now, just keeping my fingers crossed.
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Old 10-06-2013, 12:43 AM   #49
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I was cleaning out the garage today, and loading up the RV prior to trip, and low and behold, I found two Shurflo 5.7's which I had been hanging onto in the hopes of rebuilding the pump end to stop the leaks. I wrote the company referenced above to see about new gaskets/O-rings, if I am successful in that, I will rebuild both of them and carry one for a spare. They seem to last about 18 months then give up the ghost because of bad washers/O-rings. I will update once I have secured the parts.
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:05 AM   #50
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Good luck....hopefully you can get the parts required and rebuild.
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Old 10-07-2013, 03:54 PM   #51
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Some time back I added a standard well pump type pressure switch & PSI gauge on the pump circuit to diagnose some idiotic ideas I had.

Yesterday I took the control off my latest failed 5.7, which quit abruptly. I've had them run constantly w/no pressure before in which case a diaphragm/valve rebuild might have revived the pump if you can find the parts, but this one just quit. So I trimmed off the input wires to the control (red & black w/integral 15A fuse on Red), and cut off al the other wires on the control block, spliced the red/black pigtails I had cut off to the red/black input wires to the pump motor & put 12V to it. Runs great, but no longer has pressure control.

Now I've got the Square D pressure switch on the input 12V line. So now I've got a working 65psi pump spare that doesn't need its own fancy schmancy variable speed control, this baby is WOT every time its on, but will vary from ~45-65psi based on the SqD control instead.
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Old 10-22-2013, 08:50 PM   #52
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[QUOTE="Old Rv'er;1756178"]I was cleaning out the garage today, and loading up the RV prior to trip, and low and behold, I found two Shurflo 5.7's which I had been hanging onto in the hopes of rebuilding the pump end to stop the leaks. I wrote the company referenced above to see about new gaskets/O-rings, if I am successful in that, I will rebuild both of them and carry one for a spare. They seem to last about 18 months then give up the ghost because of bad washers/O-rings. I will update once I have secured the parts.[/QUOTE

Arizona Wind and Sun has the diaphragm valves for the 5.7 cheaper than anyone else. My pump is pre 2008 or something when they changed parts and made the earlier (2005 etc) obsolete.
Look them up on the internet . Good luck !
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:21 AM   #53
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Having replaced my 5.7 pump once before [pressure switch failed], I will not defend the 5.7 shurflo. However, if you dont address the quality of the power supply for the pump, I think you will continue to have issues. Many MH manufactures use separate 3-way switches to control the water pump[eg: one in kitchen and one in bath]. That is a long wire run to complete the circuit and ususally they used std 14 or 16 guage wire. Installing a simple relay at the pump location with a short/clean wire run to a 20 amp, 12v source [separate in-line fuse for the pump] will make a world of difference--just saying....
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:35 PM   #54
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My first two failed 5.7 Shurflo pumps were diagnosed by Shurflo as having cracked heads, which they attributed to very high back pressure. (I don't but they do.) The third, and I am happy to say the last, died after developing a small leak. I suspect it had a cracked head as well, as it was leaking, not burned out. It lasted 5 years, so it lived a good life, unlike the first two.

I agree with the necessity for the proper wiring, but that isn't what killed mine.

When the third one died a few months back, I went with the Aquajet. I am very happy with it so far, but I have not had it very long.
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Old 12-14-2013, 09:34 PM   #55
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Joining the crowd ...

I've had my Shurflo pump for 3 1/2 years and happened to observe that it has started leaking. No problem, had a brand new spare purchased (cheap) after hearing that the pump was no longer being made. A few days later it simply quit.

Here's where it gets interesting ...

Checked the wiring and discovered that I only had 9 - 10V on the pump wires when disconnected. The green status light would come on very slowly as opposed to popping right "On". Also found that one of the white "common" wires at the pump would register 13V+ using the black "hot" lead for reference while the other white wire would register -1.6V or so. Decided to check the monitor panel and after checking the switch wires tried it one more time and suddenly the green light popped right "On" and I had 13V+ on the pump wires. I believe one of the crimped connections in the monitor switch connections was slightly loose and re-crimped them.

Even more interesting ...

I observed that pump switch in the original monitor panel actually employs short crimped connections with what appears to be 20 - 22 AWG wires. It looks like the switch is only capable of handling that size wire. So the 14 AWG "hot" wire and interconnecting bathroom switch wires are actually connected with 20 - 22 AWG wires. No wonder these water pumps have problems trying to maintain adequate voltage across these connections, switches, and distances.

I now own an Aquajet pump but need to install a solenoid relay with direct 12V source wiring.

On another note ... what method is used to remove the small 12V switches such as the 3-gang set in the bathroom? I was going to check that wiring but afraid of breaking something.
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Old 12-21-2013, 10:14 AM   #56
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Does anyone know if our coaches have an Intellitec Water Pump Controller?
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