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Old 05-29-2017, 04:29 AM   #1
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99 40FDS awning, front shocks, and leveler questions

First off I will be needing to replace the large curbside awning and I'm looking for suggestions on where to purchase
Secondly: the front shocks are toast so I'm also looking to replace them as well. To those that have done it how accessible are they. I'm a very large guy so limited in being able to get in tight spaces any part numbers or suggested suppliers appreciated
Lastly: we were parked in our semi yesterday next to a gas powered newer model RV maybe 32 or 33 feet. He had his levelers down and his front wheels were like 8 inches off the ground. The backs were like 2 inches off
Should I expect the hwh system in my coach to attain such lofty goals? Because I can tell you it definitely isn't lifting my coach off the ground. Thanks you guys
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Old 05-29-2017, 08:03 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kennzz05 View Post

Lastly: we were parked in our semi yesterday next to a gas powered newer model RV maybe 32 or 33 feet. He had his levelers down and his front wheels were like 8 inches off the ground. The backs were like 2 inches off

When your back wheels are off the ground you have no parking brake!
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Old 05-29-2017, 09:07 AM   #3
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We replaced our original A & E curb side awning with Carefree of Colorado. We love it! I really like the fact that it utilizes a motion sensor as opposed to the old wind sensor that always seem to fail at some point. The sensor has 3 - settings: Low, Medium, High. I can simply shake the awning to get it to retract. We've seen it retract as a result of a wind burst while the material was attempting to bellow out. The new awning was mounted in the exact same location as the old one so there were no discolorations showing from the old awning.
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Old 05-29-2017, 05:23 PM   #4
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When your back wheels are off the ground you have no parking brake!
Good point! I thought it was somewhat extreme there's no way the parking lot was that far off level
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Old 05-29-2017, 06:32 PM   #5
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I replaced all 4 shocks on my '05 40 footer. The fronts are a piece of cake, 30 mins each taking your time.

The rears are a little tighter and take a little longer. I wasn't going to do the rears my self but once I gave it a good hard look I decided why not. I drove up on some blocks to get a little more maneuvering room and was able to get my impact to each of the nuts. If memory serves it took about an hour and a half. I didn't rush and didn't even bleed, well, not very much. Would I do it again, heck yeah, you get to lay down! I've made a couple of other Alpine improvements that were as bad or worse.

FWIW, I'm 66 and built like a Manatee.

Good luck, Terry
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Old 05-29-2017, 06:41 PM   #6
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"Very large" is kind of a relative measure of girth -- suffice to say, there is not a lot of room to get under the coach. The fronts are better to get to, the rears not so much. Challenge in both front and rear is getting to the top bolts--air wrench is mandatory equipment. Lots of advice on the forum about shocks--my preference is the new Koni 99-series for the font and the old Koni 88-series for the rear.
Reference the issue of raising the wheels off the ground--there is a recent 100-plus entry thread on this subject. After 100 entries, battle lines were drawn, sides staked out, and lots of opinions offered--all to no conclusion. IMHO--I prefer not to raise either front or back off the ground--have had front off ground several times, never allowed rear off ground. Lots of reasons why not but the biggest issue for me is with hanging the axle weight off the shocks and airbags with the trailing arm suspension--really distorts the bags.....
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Old 05-29-2017, 07:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcbowers View Post
We replaced our original A & E curb side awning with Carefree of Colorado. We love it! I really like the fact that it utilizes a motion sensor as opposed to the old wind sensor that always seem to fail at some point. The sensor has 3 - settings: Low, Medium, High. I can simply shake the awning to get it to retract. We've seen it retract as a result of a wind burst while the material was attempting to bellow out. The new awning was mounted in the exact same location as the old one so there were no discolorations showing from the old awning.
Mine is non electric and I was more interested in just replacing the fabric portion of the awning. But thank you for the reply
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Old 05-29-2017, 07:33 PM   #8
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"Very large" is kind of a relative measure of girth -- suffice to say, there is not a lot of room to get under the coach. The fronts are better to get to, the rears not so much. Challenge in both front and rear is getting to the top bolts--air wrench is mandatory equipment. Lots of advice on the forum about shocks--my preference is the new Koni 99-series for the font and the old Koni 88-series for the rear.
Reference the issue of raising the wheels off the ground--there is a recent 100-plus entry thread on this subject. After 100 entries, battle lines were drawn, sides staked out, and lots of opinions offered--all to no conclusion. IMHO--I prefer not to raise either front or back off the ground--have had front off ground several times, never allowed rear off ground. Lots of reasons why not but the biggest issue for me is with hanging the axle weight off the shocks and airbags with the trailing arm suspension--really distorts the bags.....
So should I be able to lift the chassis off the ground with the hwh system or does the large amount of droop that air ride system has pretty much prevent that
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Old 05-29-2017, 07:54 PM   #9
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With enough blocks under the jacks, you can lift the front (or rear for that matter) off the ground. Whether you want to or not is another matter. For myself, I want all four wheels on the ground. FWIW, if leveling and the HWH system indicates unlevel across rear plus unlevel on one side, generally the DS rear tires will come off the ground. If this looks likely to happen, I put blocks under those tires then level up.
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Old 05-29-2017, 10:52 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Kennzz05 View Post
Mine is non electric and I was more interested in just replacing the fabric portion of the awning. But thank you for the reply
My son and I just replaced the fabric on the manual A&E awning on my car trailer. Took about 2 hrs. You need two persons for most of the job but 3 for a few minutes in the middle of the job.
Google awning replacement. I found a couple of videosthat helped a lot.
Not a hard job.
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Old 05-30-2017, 06:44 PM   #11
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I recommend Koni 99 series for front shocks 99 series 99B3209 Koni 99 Evo (PN 998-3209)
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Old 05-31-2017, 03:19 AM   #12
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I recommend Koni 99 series for front shocks 99 series 99B3209 Koni 99 Evo (PN 998-3209)
Thank you
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:43 PM   #13
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The owners manual warns against raising the wheels off the ground with the leveling system. The HWH manual (or the owners manual or both) advises against putting anything under the jacks. Of course we all disregard certain portions if the manuals as we deem necessary.

Should a wheel be raised off the ground while leveling, note the size of the air gap under the tire (ideally less than an inch or two), retract the jacks and drive up onto a suitable leveling pad that is equal to or greater than the air gap observed earlier. Some weight on the pad is preferable to a pad sitting beneath a still hovering wheel. Suitable wheel chocks fore and aft would be a good addition to the safety protocol in such a situation. Re level the coach and check to see that no wheels are off the ground.

As for pads or blocks under the jacks, these are useful on dirt or gravel spaces where the jacks have a tendency to punch a hole in the ground as well as on asphalt where a jack may sink in over time.

Given a choice, parking in close proximity to a coach with it's wheels 8" off the ground should be avoided.
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Old 06-01-2017, 03:50 AM   #14
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Thanks I think I got it
Next time I see this along with my exclamation of holy shizzle. I will follow it with point and snicker (while smh)
Now I wondering if there's a correlation to tire distance aloft and diminished size of ......well you know!
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