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Old 11-25-2017, 03:27 AM   #1
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99 40fds. Parking brake

I have been meaning to ask this question for a long time I am curious if other units the same vintage as mine have trouble pulling out the parking brake knob? To be clear these are not air brakes this is a cable operated system the knob on mine is so hard to pull you're pretty much have to work gloves and it takes two hands
There is no way my wife could do it if her life depended on it. So I just wondering if anybody else has a similar issue and what have you done about it if anything? I'm actually surprised the yellow knob hasn't pulled off the end of the cable yet. The perimeter of the knob is all broken off from the degree of force required to pull it thanks in advance
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Old 11-25-2017, 09:32 AM   #2
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On our 2000 year unit, it's hard but not as hard to actuate as you have described. It's a heavy pull with one hand and requires a good grip, but doesn't hurt to use it.
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Old 11-28-2017, 01:29 AM   #3
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Anybody else?
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Old 11-28-2017, 07:02 AM   #4
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The parking brake on my 1998 36" is almost as hard to set as you describe.
The outside edges of the plastic handle had broken off. I ordered a larger, more comfortable replacement handle from Amazon. It helped some, but it is still harder than it should be.

I assume the cable runs through a sheath - like a motorcycle clutch or brake cable- and there may be a way to clean and lubricate it- but I have had more pressing issues, so I haven't gotten around to it yet.

Hope someone else will advise.
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Old 11-28-2017, 03:11 PM   #5
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My 2000 38fdds parking brake is "just right" . About the same amount of force required as on other coaches I have had so something must be binding or corroded?

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Old 11-29-2017, 02:53 AM   #6
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No idea as I can't get my fat ass under the coach to check it out
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Old 11-29-2017, 02:57 AM   #7
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I need to make a set of ramps but even then it will be tight I am figuring on a 10 inch ramp
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Old 11-29-2017, 09:53 PM   #8
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Ken, I made a set of ramps from 2x10s. The more you stack the higher you go. I bought 2 eight footers and cut them into 4, 3 1/2, 3, 2 1/2 and 2 long. You end up with 6 left over from each 2x10. Each piece of 2 x 10 raises the coach 1 1/2 for a total of 7 1/2. I nail them into one block with one end staggered 6, the other end flushed up, so you have 1 1/2 of rise every 6. You have 2 of pad to stop on, but if you are concerned you could add a piece to stop forward motion. You also must be careful aligning the blocks directly in front of the tires.

I place the blocks in front of the tires and drive up it for the front tires or back up on to the rear. If you are raising the rear you will need a ramp for each tire for a total of 4 ramps. I have some one spot me as I pull on the blocks. Once up, I block the tires on the other axle as well as set the parking brake. I also bought an inexpensive Pittsburgh creeper from Harbor Freight. That creeper is only 4 1/2 tall so it is easy to roll around under the coach.
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Old 11-30-2017, 01:14 PM   #9
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Ken I had a 98
for 8 yrs Had that problem easy fix on the 98 they put the air switch over the driveshaft with a long old style choke wire you can tell if you can't hear air noise under dash board when you put the brake on. the fix oil small amount one drop at a time at the base of the button then work the button in and out many times and repeat.
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Old 11-30-2017, 06:40 PM   #10
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...ok something not tracking here--maybe not a big detail but thought the original parking brake on early Alpines was hydraulically actuated, perhaps by a choke-wire control--but I could be dreaming--again.....
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Old 11-30-2017, 08:21 PM   #11
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Old scout You may be right I never checked that out but the cable is 30+ feet long and ends over the drive shaft tryed to oil from below didn't work but oiled it from top and solved problem
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Old 12-01-2017, 04:08 AM   #12
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So are we talking like regular 3in1 type oil? Or something lighter like sewing machine oil? Would be tempting to try and use air somehow to force it down the sheath
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