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Old 04-27-2014, 10:32 AM   #29
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The ABS fuse picture in the post above, also has to be rotated clockwise for proper viewing… sorry about that, I couldn't figure out how rotate the picture before posting. It looks fine on my laptop.

Anyway, it was back to the schematics to make sure everything that had been recently replaced was wired correctly. By the way, I had already been underneath the coach to look for any obvious wheel sensor wire problems at each wheel… all looked to be connected properly with no apparent breaks or abrasions as far as I could physically trace the wires.

Since the starter along with both the starter relay and charge relay had been recently replaced (as mentioned earlier). I went back to the schematics to see if all the connections were correct. It was relatively easy to read the numbers on the wires between the starter and the starter relay, and they matched with the schematic. However, the charge relay (aka Interconnect solenoid) as shown on the schematic closeup (picture below) doesn't show the numbers of the small wires, so I took a chance that they might be reversed and voila the ABS pump quit running.
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Old 04-27-2014, 10:51 AM   #30
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So after I got the ABS pump to quit running continuously by reversing those small wires on the bottom of the newly installed Trombetta "Bear" solenoid (picture below). I then went back to the ABS diagnostic toggle switch to clear the codes. As mentioned earlier, you turn the key on but instead of switching the diagnostic toggle switch ON and then OFF after a one second hold, you have to turn it ON for three seconds and then back OFF in order to clear faults according to the manual. Unfortunately, I couldn't get it to clear the codes. I tried the three second ON/OFF sequence, then four seconds, five seconds, etc., I even drove the Coach around the neighborhood hoping it would clear and the ABS light would go out. Now the ABS light blinks a couple times every few seconds but brakes feel normal and the ABS Module pump isn't running constantly. So I have a partial victory and I hope that next week when I can drive the coach a longer distance that I can get it to reset or clear. I'll post again if things change.

That's all for now, thanks for the support on this forum, and I hope this may help someone else out a little in the future.
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Old 04-27-2014, 10:53 PM   #31
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FYI the long silver mini-usb-looking-"fuse" is a self-resetting breaker
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:42 PM   #32
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I'am having trouble understanding why switching the signal wire on the battery combining solenoid would effect the ABS motor. The solenoid doesn't care it will work either way. I think the wires to the solenoid are separate from anything to do with the ABS. Maybe the small relay is bad somehow or there is or was a loose connection that got bumped when switching the wires. ???? Anybody have an explanation. Does the wiring diagram show that the small relay is part of the ABS system?
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:20 PM   #33
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Ref my early 03, I tired to use the ignition switch on, flip ABS switch on/off for a second to induce the diagnostic mode but no-joy. Interestingly, flipping the engine diagnotic switch on/off for a second causes the engine diagnostic to engage [I think] but same procedure does not engage the ABS diagnostic mode--oh well. "Assuming" there are no stored codes, it makes me wonder now if my occasional ABS dash on light means anything--ABS/brakes continue to function as best I can tell.
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Old 04-29-2014, 11:41 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMunsil View Post
I'am having trouble understanding why switching the signal wire on the battery combining solenoid would effect the ABS motor. The solenoid doesn't care it will work either way. I think the wires to the solenoid are separate from anything to do with the ABS. Maybe the small relay is bad somehow or there is or was a loose connection that got bumped when switching the wires. ???? Anybody have an explanation. Does the wiring diagram show that the small relay is part of the ABS system?
Jim,
I agree... I wish the schematic I had (as shown in one of the pictures I posted above) had more detail. It seems weird that swapping those small wires on the battery combining solenoid fixed the problem... I suppose I could have bumped some other wires in the adjoining wire loom. Maybe the system just picked that point in time to reset... because I had done the same thing several times before swapping the wires (i.e., turning off the master switches to reset the Vansco and powering everything off).
As a matter of fact, I even used the opportunity to replace the two chassis batteries a day or so before I did the wire swap on the solenoid, and when I did, I had everything powered down as well as the main negative cable disconnected. Of course, nothing changed after I put the new batteries in with regard to the ABS pump running But, when I powered everything down again afterwards (a day later) to swap those wires on the solenoid... Voila! The problem seemed to be fixed, the ABS pump finally stopped running.

BTW: Anybody need perfectly good chassis batteries? I took my old ones back to the local Interstate Battery shop to get my core charge back and they said the batteries are from 2011 and tested fine. They recommended I sell them instead of turning them in for the core charge refund. They are Interstate Workaholic 31P-MHD, CCA 950, RC 195 I was thinking $100.00 would be fair.
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:13 PM   #35
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If you switch the wires back does the motor start running again?
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Old 04-29-2014, 12:59 PM   #36
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If you switch the wires back does the motor start running again?
Jim,

Good question... Ya know, I'm almost afraid to mess with it anymore since I got the ABS Module pump to stop running continuously. Do you think I'm being over-cautious by turning off both master switches, taking off the main negative cable from the back of the battery compartment wall, unplugging from shore power and manually shutting down the Xantrex inverter/charger? Or, can I just "carefully" take off the little nuts on the battery combining solenoid, (aka Interconnect solenoid) and swap the wires without all that? I know that I still get a spark when I reconnect the negative cable. I think that spark is because of the solar panel. I suppose now that I think about it, I should turn off the breaker under the bathroom sink for the solar panel...
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Old 04-29-2014, 03:07 PM   #37
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Notwithsatanding what the wiring schematics indicate--the usual config is for one of the small wires on the solenoid to go to ground and the other to go to the interconnect control point. I this case, either the manual botton on the dash or the Vansco logic that interconnects the bats for charging. Guess if the solenoid had failed in a major way, you might be getting 12v feedback on the lines from the connected bat cables. Dont think the small wires on the solenoid have a polarity so either post can be grounded--I think. "Assuming" any of this is true, its hard to see how simply switching the activation wires on the solenoid has any effect on the ABS.
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Old 04-29-2014, 05:47 PM   #38
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ABS Dash Light On and Noise

Turn off the chassis disconnect and unplug from shore power then switch the wires. There should not be any power to the positive wire or the negative but handle it as if there was. The positive is the one with the shrink wrap on it. The solenoid gets its power from the Vansco #19 output. Turning off the chassis disconnect turns the power off the Vansco .
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Old 05-07-2014, 05:16 PM   #39
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FYI#1- solenoid & relay coils are agnostic as to polarity, either post can be pos & the other neg (most off them, but not 100%, e.g. latching solenoids/relays have a polarity)
FYI#2- the 30A breaker in the fuse block powers the #12 feed to the load side of the Bosch relay in question, which is labelled ABS Recirc Pump on the chassis wiring schematics I've got. The coil of the ARP relay is powered off pin15 of the 15-pin plug on the ABS ECU.

That's all the I that Y get from EM 2day.
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Old 05-08-2014, 10:48 PM   #40
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UPDATE:

Drove Coach a good distance this week, tried again to clear the codes with the ABS diagnostic toggle switch, but no luck. Still have ABS dash light on but at least the ABS Modulator pump no longer runs continuously.

Finally got a tech that is associated with my warranty to come by and diagnose today. His recommendation is to replace the ABS ECU. I guess it was a fluke that swapping the two small wires on the Interconnect Solenoid got the modulator pump to stop running continuously. I will swap the wires back to original configuration

Will update this thread once the ABS ECU has been received and replaced. Thanks again for the help.
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:35 AM   #41
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Save the old part just in case new ECU doesn't fix the issue, then you have a spare.
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Old 05-11-2014, 10:04 AM   #42
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David, will your warranty pay for the new ECU if it doesn't fix the problem? My company would not pay for one unless the shop could "prove" the original one was defective. "Try it and see" was not acceptable as the new one was non-returnable. So I live with my ABS disabled.
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