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Old 06-30-2015, 06:29 PM   #1
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Accessory Relay Issue?

Hey folks, I am still chasing an issue. When I turn the ignition switch to on sometimes I get the dash info lights and sometimes I do not.When I do all is fine and coach will start as it should.When it does not , well it is a problem.The chassis batts are at 12.3 at rest a little on the low end.I read 13.66 at middle of bat isolator when running. Connections are clean and alt tests good.Come heck or high water I am replacing the start batts next week, they are over 4 years old.I have also ordered a new pollack 31-322 ignition switch.I'm thinking that the accessory switch relay maybe a source of the problem also.With a rig over 12 years old I am more apt to replace parts than to try and isolate one item. This has been a hit and miss issue for a while and it is one of those things that drives me nuts.Electrical issues are not my forte. Anyone have a part # for the accessory relay or a direction to check.
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:54 AM   #2
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Issue solved. Turned out to be a loose connection at the ignition switch. I will change out the switch,it never has felt right when removing the key.I only have one key so with the new switch I'll have a set of 3.
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Old 07-01-2015, 07:57 AM   #3
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If nothing that normally works with the key in the on position (dash HVAC fan is a good test item), the "likely suspect" is the Ignition Solenoid.

Easy to check: The ignition solenoid is located behind the passenger's side dash panel, which is velcroed in place.

You should hear the solenoid click in and can easily check it with a voltmeter. One large lug is connected to the chassis battery. The other large lug SHOULD have that same voltage when the key is in the on position. Even a test light will tell you if this is happening. If not, give the solenoid a light, sharp rap with the handle of a plastic screwdriver. Often this will TEMPORARILY free it up and confirm need to replace it.

I would not just start replacing parts. The ignition solenoid is the most likely suspect, but it could also be the ignition switch or wiring between the two. Let us know what you find about the solenoid and we can give you troubleshooting steps.

Brett
2003 38FDDS
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:33 AM   #4
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Thanks Brett for the pointers. After wiggling and pushing on the ignition plug at the back of the switch it has worked fine. When it would act up I would have a working acc and start position on the ignition switch but no dash lights I could hear the lift pump running in the on position so it's a little confusing to me.If it acts up again I will put my ohm meter on the solenoid .Do you know the part # for the ignition solenoid?
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:39 PM   #5
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Jim,

No, do not have the PN handy. But, checking for the same voltage on both large lugs (between the lug and ground/metal) will instantly tell you if this is the problem.
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Old 07-01-2015, 01:25 PM   #6
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My meter shows 10.35v on each large lug. Solenoid is good,just not a good solid connection on all the prongs on the back of the ignition switch is the best that I can come up with.97% of the electrical issues I find seem to deal with a connection issue. Thanks again Brett.
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Old 07-01-2015, 01:58 PM   #7
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Jim,

10.35 is VERY low voltage-- can cause all kinds of electrical issues.

Check voltage at the chassis battery with the ignition on, and then at the solenoid. If much different, look for corroded or loose connections. Said in other words, you want voltage at the solenoid to be at least 12.2 VAC.

And, if voltage at the battery is below 12.2 VDC, try to recharge the battery. If wet cell, check the SG (specific gravity) of the cells. If not, after fully charging, do a load test. It is amazing how many electrical issues surface with low voltage.
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Old 07-01-2015, 03:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfe10 View Post
Jim,

10.35 is VERY low voltage-- can cause all kinds of electrical issues.

Check voltage at the chassis battery with the ignition on, and then at the solenoid. If much different, look for corroded or loose connections. Said in other words, you want voltage at the solenoid to be at least 12.2 VAC.

And, if voltage at the battery is below 12.2 VDC, try to recharge the battery. If wet cell, check the SG (specific gravity) of the cells. If not, after fully charging, do a load test. It is amazing how many electrical issues surface with low voltage.
Yep my bad.I found a better ground for the neg probe. 12.7 at batt and same at the large solenoid lug.Did a load test on both start batts and they test just fine.I'm sure the issue lies with the ignition switch plug.
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Old 07-31-2015, 10:23 AM   #9
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After replacing the ignition switch,ignition relay and checking the ignition switch plug the issue continued to show up on a hit and miss bases. The latest issue left me driving down the road with no gauges working. A RV tec and myself with dueling ohm meters found the ground fuse to sometimes check out ok and sometimes not. I had this fuse replaced a little over a month ago and instead of replacing it with a 300 amp mega fuse the shop put in a 150 amp fuse. We connected the two fuse leads and started the coach over a dozen times with no issue. I replaced the fuse and now carry a spare. I believe that this problem has finally been fixed once and for all.
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Old 07-31-2015, 02:36 PM   #10
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Jim I am still learning about the electrical system on my 06. Would you tell me where the ground fuse is located.

Thanks
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Old 07-31-2015, 03:06 PM   #11
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ID:	101679 Rick I'm not sure your coach has this ground fuse. It may only have been used on pre vansco models.Mine is located in the maintenance bay.
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Old 07-31-2015, 04:29 PM   #12
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Thanks Jim. No I have not seen a ground fuse anywhere. The only big fuse I have found is the house battery fuse in the battery compartment.
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