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Old 08-25-2012, 06:56 AM   #57
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I have the exact same coach (and paint scheme)and I have to tell you it was a little scary to see the damage on your coach. I am glad they were able to fix your coach as I know we are all doing upgrades to make it a little more like home, and changing coaches is starting over. I hope your coach is repaired to your satisfaction and you get back on the road again soon.
I know the feeling. When I got my used Breeze, it took me a month to Dunnerize it. Same with my 20' enclosed... And it's a never ending thing.
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:51 AM   #58
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Radiator grill

FWIW, when I had my crunch back in 2010 and the radiator grill got hit real bad, the folks doing the fixing had a new one fabricated by the outfit in Yakima who did it for the factory new coaches. About $1800.
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Old 08-25-2012, 11:16 PM   #59
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Hmmm, I gave the body shop the Majic Metals contact info, maybe they got the new one from them, as I think that is who made it for WRV.
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Old 08-27-2012, 06:11 PM   #60
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I wonder if they made you a new style or an old style. Probably no cooling difference. If the fin hole is rectangular you are in good shape; if it has rounded upper corners (latest style) you may have some amount of mismatch between the grill cutout & the radiator intake that would require some shroud/seal modification. I'm guessing Magic could fab the correct one given model year, so I'm probably fretting over nada.
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:32 PM   #61
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Have not seen the pictures so I don't know what I got yet. Soon though I hope.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:03 AM   #62
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Radiator grill

When I got my new one, there was a slight discrepancy. The picture is the new one in front and the old one behind. See if you can spot the difference.......
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Old 08-29-2012, 12:17 PM   #63
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Monty- one thing your repair outfit had to do was match or generate a comparable floor/basement exterior molding & hinge. The original is a paired aluminum extrusion. Find out what they did to match that, and what was their source, if you can. Others can benefit down the road. Thx
(David's picture reminded me of that)
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Old 08-29-2012, 12:21 PM   #64
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Dave- angled center bar on the new one vs parallel w/the top & bottom of panel on the old one? Shouldn't be an issue in operation, and cosmetically indistinguishable unless somebody gets out a micrometer to check.
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:36 PM   #65
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Ok, I will ask the repair guy. He is supposed to send me pictures, none so far, and I know it's finished as it's being moved into covered storage until I can get down to it. I will let you know. The original damage ones, dont show much damage to that flange, so it might have been reused.
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:06 PM   #66
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MIke wins! The center bar was definitely on an angle. The shop in Vermont couldn't believe it when they unpacked it and placed them as you see in the picture. With much screaming and shouting at Magic Metal about their useless quality control, they gave me a credit back of $500.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:29 PM   #67
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I'm guessing the layout guy placed one end of the mid-bar at mid height of the grill front, and the rear at mid height of the grill rear. The earlier design would be easier to fab, as the grill bar intersections would all be same height till the taper comes in to play. But no difference in function either way.
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:55 PM   #68
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MIke wins! The center bar was definitely on an angle. The shop in Vermont couldn't believe it when they unpacked it and placed them as you see in the picture. With much screaming and shouting at Magic Metal about their useless quality control, they gave me a credit back of $500.
Actually they or you owe your insurance company the credit.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:18 PM   #69
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All - My new Radiator Grill was gotten from Burke along with the radiator. The flange hinge was part of that assembly, although the original one was not damaged according to the body shop. I don't know what it all looks like yet, but I am hoping it nice. Will know by the end of September for sure.
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Old 09-21-2012, 12:11 AM   #70
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All – Well, I rented a truck, filled it up with motorhome stuff, food, and such, drove 1350 miles and spent so far 1600 dollars to find out the Motorhome is not ready to take back yet, although I was told by the facility "it's ready to go", NOT!! When we had it towed in, I tried to explain to them, this MH is way different than any other you have fixed, and I showed them stuff. Not sure they got it.

There were 6 areas of concern, the major was the inverter is dead, and needs to be replaced, and the shroud around the radiator/CRC is not completely sealed against hot air being sucked back into the cooling area. They had that fixed today, but I forgot to check on it, and I will tomorrow. Oh, speaking about the radiator grill, it's similar to the one pictured above, but the horizontal bar is square like it should be. I don't remember the original having rounded corners, but maybe it did.

Since it’s going to be two weeks to a month before it’s fixed, I am leaving our stuff in a storage shed, (some went into the motorhome), and worrying about it in November when I can drive my own car down and not have to worry about putting a lot of miles on a rental truck. I explained that the coach needs to be put on shore power for three hours about every 8-14 days, and or run the generator, so those house batteries stay up to snuff. I don't remember the figure for sure, but the inverter will draw some amps from them even when the master switches are in the off position. That is I believe to keep power on the CPU's in the inverter so it does not lose its brains, similar to the CMOS chips in a PC, which keeps all the startup settings. I think its 5A parasitic load, but I could be wrong, someone will know.

The body paint and fiberglass work was very well done; I could not see any areas that were not a complete match on the original paint scheme. The interior was detailed and it’s in top shape as well. So the body work part and the customer service of the shop is recommended highly. WRV did a good job on the original cabinets and they have stood up to the heat well.

Since the inverter was out, I could not test the fridge, and it took two days of testing, and then figuring out to manually charge the house batteries up to 12VDC that I finally got the surge guard transfer switch to switch over shore power and genset power so the A/C’s could work. Speaking of that, the a/c’s however could not overcome being in the sun, with temps in the 100’s, and it took well over 1 hour to bring down the 103 to 93 degrees. If it’s under a cover, I think you could keep it in the mid 80’s but they would run a lot. I never turned on the Hydro Hot, since no way to charge up those house batteries, I am going to leave that chore until I return in November.

Thought all would want to know the MH’s status. It’s still got a ways to go.
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