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Old 09-21-2012, 12:33 AM   #71
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Thanks for the update, too bad it's not completely ready though.
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:00 PM   #72
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Just curious if you got it back yet?
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Old 10-05-2012, 06:33 PM   #73
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I'm late chiming in but I thought I'd add my thought.

This is why I keep uninsured/underinsured on ANY vehicle I own. My mom's previous car was hit twice (many years apart) both by people without insurance. It was a 91 Corolla and was almost totaled 1994 by a 1970's boat of a car that suffered almost no damage.

The two accidents I have been in (both not my fault), luckily the people had insurance.

One was in a Wal-mart parking lot and I got REALLY lucky that the cop who responded wrote out his observation of what he saw when he showed up. He couldn't do an actual report since it was on private property. He basically said how it was about 11pm, well lit parking lot, she failed to stop and t-boned my car near the front right wheel. Ironically, that was the 91 Corolla my mom had. I sold her a newer car I had ad did a partial trade for her Corolla. And it was hit almost in the same exact place!

The other one, a lady thought an intersection was a 4 way stop (it was changed to one about a month later and then changed to a 2 way street several months later..) so she went on out into the intersection and I t-boned her car.

Low speed, no injury accidents both times luckily. And both times my car was "totalled" out but I kept the car for about $300 less payment and kept on driving them. The one I'm driving now, I did replace a broken headlight and the front bumper but that's it. There's something to be said for driving an old junky car. I've gotten paid back the value I had in two of them now!
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:17 PM   #74
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No it's not done yet. They have done the following:
Checked the a/c on dash, it works like it's supposed too.
Checked the a/c on the roof, they also work as they are supposed too.
Verified the hydraulic reserviour was overfilled, cleaned off the area and it's fine.

They have not checked the steering noise yet, and the inverter has not been replaced yet. My guess is sometime in November if I'm lucky.

Thank you for asking.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:30 PM   #75
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All - Well we got the coach back on 11-20-2012. It seems to be working fine except for a few little things, couple of lose bolts, which I fixed, two burned out bulbs in the left and right tail light assemblies, a short in the front TV area and lose wires which I will fix next week once we get to Yuma.

Otherwise, aside from this being a very stressful thing which I hope we never have to go through again, the work done was performed professionally and completely as I can tell.

All systems work (except the aforementioned TV and stereo stuff), and we have stressed out the cooling system on a real long high climb into Cottonwood, AZ from the Phoenix area. We will stress it out again, going to Yuma, as we get to climb the same hill once more. Otherwise everything works as it should for now.

I think we can complete this thread and send it to bed.
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:40 AM   #76
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Ok, wrong again. However, here is the latest update on the coach. We did pickup up on the above date, and it spent some months in Yuma on our lot. We took a short trip to Casa Grande, AZ and back, and then started for home. Before we left the lot, after hooking up toad, found coolant leak, tightened the upper rear radiator hose clamp and all was good. When we arrived in Pahrump, NV everything was good until we left, then the lower front hose was leaking, so I thightened that one, again no leaks. Then we got to Canyonville, OR at 7 Feathers, and just before we left the next morning, again a hose was leaking, it was the rear one attached to the long pipe. It should be noted we found these leaks by using the engine pre-heat feature for the hydro hot, so a slow pre heat shows a multitude of problems without any damage. I had to add about a pint of coolant to bring leval back to good in the tank.
My other problems is a lose connection in the silverleaft system (it was removed for inverter replacement - read above) and it drops off line periodically. Silverleaf has another issue to deal with also related to the above, so I am going to just take it to them for repair. Additionally, one Hydraulic hose for the HWH is leaking, and it was not prior to the accident so they are going to have Cummins in Junction City, OR fix that.

With that said, if I remember, when placing the coach in Drive, my front headlights come on, and they still do. I have though tried the "driving lights switch" and they wont come on. I am assuming the driving lights are similiar to fog lights and are the ones at the lowest point on the front of the coach. I have other "fixes" which are part of the DIY feature of Alpine Ownership for the summer season, so that is just one thing I have to add to the list. Please confirm that I have the correct light in mind when engaging the "driving light switch" please.
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:00 AM   #77
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If your lights come on when you go in to drive then they are acting as Daylight Running Lights (DRL). Your lower driving lights (fog lights) would not normally come on unless you turn your light switch to the full headlight position.
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Old 04-14-2013, 12:43 PM   #78
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Then exactly what does the driving light switch control, it's not the clearance lights since they come on when I turn the headlight switch to parking/running position?
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Old 04-14-2013, 01:52 PM   #79
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If you turn your headlights ON the driving light switch should then turn the driving/fog lights on and off. If they don't come on maybe you have a fault somewhere.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:18 PM   #80
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Have been having silverleaft issues because of the accident we had last year, maybe while those are being addressed it will solve the driving light delima, if not, I choose not to drive at night so it's not a real important issue, just hate it when stuff does not work.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:47 PM   #81
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Insurance companies and repair shops are "supposed" to return your vehicle to the same or better condition than it was before an accident. I've never found that to be true. They (repair shop) usually screws something else up in the process.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:03 PM   #82
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Driving Lights are the two round lower lights. They work by Input LED#16 and Output LED#18 on the front Vansco VMM2820. The Input seeks ground thru the Driving Light Switch by driver's left elbow; when switched On the switch should ground the ~11.9V the Vansco sends out, & the #18 Output LED should light & send 12V to the driving lights.

If #16 Input lights, but #18 Output does not, then the circuit within the Vansco is burned out. Mine was on original delivery, and I opted to keep it and to wire around the circuit using a relay. I kept the switch as "ground seeking" to operate the coil on the relay, and the switch side sends 12V out on the same wire the Vansco output used. I snipped then spliced into the input & output wires to take the Vansco out of the circuit.
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:30 PM   #83
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Another Update - On the 26th of June, I ran over and got the coach to take it out to the truck stop fuel it up and then bring it home to wash it real good. On the way, the engine lost power and lots of black smoke out the tail pipe. Great!! I though another problem. So it just went home so I could clean it up and then called Cummins in Phoenix to check on if I could drive it to the Portland, Oregon shop, and they said because it's black smoke, that I could (White smoke is bad, if you have that immediately stop and turn off engine). They said they were running behind, and it would be a while before they could get to it for diagnosis. They got to it on Monday the 15th of July, and it took 3 days of different things going on to figure out the upper front CAC hose and clamp were very lose and air was blowing out instead of making the circle to the turbo. Which has fixed the coach I have just gotten off the phone with them. There will have to be some discussion on a bill adjustment between Phoenix and Portland, but it now is fixed. Tomorrow wen I pick it up, I am going to test drive it to Troutdale and get fuel, and then bring it back to storage. I will update this thread once I know if/when/what and all the rest concerning this latest issue.
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Old 07-17-2013, 11:58 PM   #84
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They probably reassembled the charge air lines dry, and the joint may slip apart again. If it does you need to clean the mating surfaces real well, apply a modest coating of hair spray to the metal, slide the pliable tube over, fully tighten the bands & let sit for the hair spray to take a set. Should be good to go after that.
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