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Old 06-23-2015, 04:45 PM   #1
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Alpine 12v aircon wiring

2002 40 FDTS...

anyone know if/where the fuse is located for the 12v controls for the dometic roof ac's?
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Old 06-23-2015, 09:52 PM   #2
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Aaron,

I'm pretty sure you'll find the fuse with the 12V fuse block in the bathroom cabinet. It may not be identified as AC control. According to the diagrams in my '03 manual the fuse is labeled "Interior Lights". If you have a manual look at the 12V distribution diagram. Or, look on the ACA website for a copy of the manual.
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:04 PM   #3
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The rooftop A/C are controlled by your thermostat. It should be fused through your house 12 v fuse panel. In addition, there might be a fuse on the back of the thermostat.
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:15 PM   #4
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Looked at my 03 12v fuse block under the bathroom sink tonight--didnt see a fuse dedicated to the thermostat. Based on location of my stat [mid-door], I suspect the stat is probably powered [piggy-back] by the tank monitor circuit or the interior lights.
This assumes the AC units dont produce their own 12v power to feed the stat--guess that might be possible too--like your stat at home/ residential??????
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:27 PM   #5
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A home HVAC system will have a 24 volt transformer to power the thermostat and provide low voltage power for humidifiers, etc. In your RV pull the thermostat off the wall and use a meter to test for voltage. Also, if your thermostat is working, it should control furnace and A/C fan. If you get it to turn one of those systems on, you can pull fuses one by one until you turn off the furnace or A/C fan. Then you'll know which circuit it's on. If your thermostat has a liquid crystal or LED on it, you can even more easily figure out which circuit provides it's power by pulling fuses.
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Old 06-23-2015, 11:20 PM   #6
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Aaron, not sure what issue you are experiencing, but my AC units take several minutes to come on when the thermostat is set and the fan is set to auto. When I place the fan to high from auto, I think the AC units start cooling a little faster.
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:47 AM   #7
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Problem i'm experiencing.

Front A/C works fine.

Rear A/C has no life at all. I cleaned all the connections. I'm getting a readout that zone 2 is active, and a bar under the zone 2, showing that the tstat says the a/c should be on, but nothing from the a/c, no humming, buzzing, or sounds that anything is happening. I replaced the control board with identical new control board (already has 5 button tstat) and the capacitors, but nothing, still. I'm trying to see if the 12v to the a/c is working, but haven't had a chance to get back up on top to volt meter it. went through my fuses and didn't see anything that stood out...

i'm almost at the point where the rv service guy is going to get it to see what's up.
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:22 PM   #8
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Aaron,

Have you confirmed that you do have 120 VAC at the rear A/C. It takes both the signal from the thermostat and 120 VAC (check its breaker in the 120 VAC breaker box) for it to run.

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Old 06-24-2015, 12:25 PM   #9
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Check that both legs of your 50 amp service are 'live.' If one is off, it could be the one for the rear A/C. If your connected to 30 amps, your adaptor would power both legs, but with only a capacity of 30 amps.
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:31 PM   #10
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Aaron,

According to the diagram, the 12V control wiring is typical connectorized phone cables. One cable feeds the front AC (Zone 1) from the control. Then, a cable runs from the front AC to the rear AC (Zone 2). The rear AC is then connected to the AGS system (if existing). It might be worth checking the cable between the front & rear AC units to see if an end is not fully seated. Also, if the AGS system exists the cable actually plugs into the AGS control panel typically located in the cabinet where the tank monitor resides (above the AC control).
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:52 PM   #11
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I've got 120v...both with volt meter and the old whoops method great when you are on top of the coach.

The AGS (which i do have and works with the batter level right now) doesn't turn on with the A/C's...there is only one cable hooked to the back, although there are two cables coming down. maybe it was unhooked at some point. I will research that...neither AC has the AGS switch toggled on the control board. if i toggle those switches i get the comm failure EE on the tstat which makes sense if the cable isn't hooked up to the rear tstat?

me thinks something else is going on at this point.

If i disconnect the cable from the front to the rear ac the tstat loses recognition of the second AC...so i assume i'm getting a decent connection there.

I've been doing this off a 50 amp service, and off the generator, so i'm pretty sure that's not part of the problem.


Thanks for the help guys. I've found someone to watch after my coach while i'm out of the country and i'm using it a few more times before i go!
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Old 06-24-2015, 06:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181 View Post
Check that both legs of your 50 amp service are 'live.' If one is off, it could be the one for the rear A/C. If your connected to 30 amps, your adaptor would power both legs, but with only a capacity of 30 amps.
I had that same condition with my coach a few years ago. Both A/C's had been working fine on the road using the generator. But at the RV park the rear one worked and the front one didn't. I connected to the 30 amp service, and both worked. So it was a bad leg on the 50 amp service. Fortunately it was not that hot so one A/C was enough.

I now carry a circuit tester.
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Old 06-24-2015, 10:04 PM   #13
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Ok. So I replaced the rear control board. What about thoughts that it might be the front control board.

When I parked it in the fall both worked perfectly. When I took it out of storage. Rear not working.
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Old 06-27-2015, 11:36 AM   #14
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To update everyone. I did a bunch more searching on the web...clicking every link that i could find. Finally found some archived post from another rv forum (which naturally i didn't save). Same symptoms as me. did the same thing (naturally, i know i'm not the first).

Everyone here was correct, there was no 12v to the rear AC. but, there was 12v to the system. rear AC gets it 12v from the front thanks to Bob's knowledge of the circuits. checked output from front control board (which i didn't replace) and none there.

So next day aired a new control board for the front from PPL and installed it this morning. Happy to say, i now have 2 excitingly cold blowing AC's!!!!!!!

so...2 new control boards, $280 (both next day aired), 2 new caps for the rear (not needed, but $50) and it works perfect!

thanks for the help and suggestions everyone.
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