Community Forums

Wayne R · 10-21-2009, 06:52 PM

Mark, What adapter do we need for the Alpine brake reservoir?

Roger L. · 11-13-2009, 02:00 PM

Hello Everyone, I've been reading all the issues everyone has had with their brakes. I have one question that I can't seem to find an answer on. I remember reading something on it, but can't find the posting now.
I puchased a 2006 Alpine Limited 36FDDS Coach with 6690 miles on it. The coach hasn't been used much since 2005 (a trip here and a trip there (per the Trip History Report on the SilverLeaf) Would it be a good idea to have the brake fluid flushed before we take off on our first trip?
Roger

Jeff and Cheryl · 11-13-2009, 05:19 PM

Roger,

Absolutely!!

Dale777 · 11-13-2009, 06:38 PM

Roger L.

Yes have the brake system flushed and fluid replaced. Also, have the shop check all brake line connections and brake line standoffs to ensure there is no rubbing or excessive flexing. There is a topic about this that you can view:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/brak...ure-55083.html

Also, while they are under the coach inspecting it, have the shop check the steering gear bracket attachment to the frame rail for excessive flexing:

http://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/caut...ssue-1077.html

EngineerMike · 11-13-2009, 11:24 PM

Roger- if the brake fluid hasn't been flushed since new, it is (over)due.

Old Scout · 11-14-2009, 07:48 AM

Reference the DIY comments on flushing brake fluid, the idea of removing wheels [especially the rear] is just not something I want to tackle [jacking, blocking, torque reqmts, etc.] Nor can I imagine that the "typical" RV shop or truck center removes the wheels. Given that each caliper has two bleed plugs, I wonder how much old fluid is left in the system if you only bleed the inside [reachable] plugs?

EngineerMike · 11-14-2009, 08:47 AM

I only see one bleed screw on the Meritors. Fluid enters one side at the top, then there is a cross-over tube to the other side at the bottom (wire wrapped presumably for a heat sink), and the bleed screw exits fluid at the top of the second side. So I'd say the fluid exchange is as complete as you make it, similar to on your 1968 Camaro RS (or other toad as may apply)

Old Scout · 11-14-2009, 11:57 AM

Assume calipers have not change since 2003 but they may have--on the 03, supply line feeds the inside caliper with bleed screw on top. Cross-over tube leads to outside caliper which also has bleed screw on top. Dont think you will get the outside caliper to bleed without opening that caliper's bleed screw. Small chance of getting a wrench thru the holes in the front wheels--but no chance in rear.

EngineerMike · 11-14-2009, 05:33 PM

Boy howdy. Learn something new each and every day. The Four Piston Quadraulic Disc Brake Caliper Maintenance Manual available at your friendly neighborhood ACA Tech Library, says the following in numbered page 15 (pdf page 16):
3. Each four-piston caliper is equipped with two
bleeder screws. Loosen the inner bleeder
screw (which is always on the top) and purge
the air. Tighten it loosely.
4. Open the outer bleeder screw and purge the
air and tighten the bleeder screw to 9-12 lb-ft
(12.2-16.3 N•m).
5. Now again open the inner bleeder screw and
purge the air and tighten the bleeder screw to
9-12 lb-ft (12.2-16.3 N•m).
I stand corrected, humbled, chastened, and partially sobered up. Guess I need 4 more Speed Bleeders.

Roger L. · 11-16-2009, 08:25 AM

Well, here's a new one I bet no ones has had yet.
This morning I took my 06 Alpine 36FDDS to the local RV Dealership and asked them to drain, flush and inspect the brake fluid system. They told me that they don't do brakes for RV's. Also told me that they could not replace and reroute the hyd hoses that are laying on top of the radiator for the bedroom slide out that have blown.
They are going to change the oil and grease the chassis though, alone with oil and filter change for my generator.
Roger

Algoma · 11-16-2009, 08:34 AM

Roger, that is pretty typical. My Cummins shop will do the engine and generator service but I have to go to the Allison dealer to get the transmission done. Anything else, like brakes, I have to go to a Freightliner shop. Luckily where I live they are all within 5 miles but it is still a pain.

mythplaced · 11-16-2009, 10:41 AM

Yep..

Cummins Coach Care...Engine, tranny, Cooling, dash AC
Local Mobile RV tech...Coach stuff, AC (roof), furnace, waterheater, HWH, Xantrex, etc..
TCI & SpeedPro..........Fluid/filter changes & Lubrication, Brakes and alignment, Tires,
AGLAND....................Annual Diesel Emmissions ceritification
Mythplaced................Modifications, decorations, General fixit

This aint no simple operation..

EngineerMike · 11-16-2009, 02:48 PM

Roger- Service is what it is in your neighborhood. There are occasional shops that do HWH, full chassis service (outside of engine ECM reflash or other "campaign" or warranty type work which is only done by the engine mfgr), brake service, hydraulic flush, etc. even in some cases extending to radiator work. In other areas there are no one stop shops. And in all cases, the shops are as good as the shops are at each specialty.

If you ask them, you will "learn" they are great at just about anything that generates billable hours. If you ask other customers in your area, you will find out the facts. For your HWH work you can check HWH's website for a list of service locations including mobile guys who come to you. For the others, you will want to check out multiple possible service joints and get references from RV owners in your area. It won't take long asking around before you find the places with the good reputations for satisfying customers.

Algoma · 11-16-2009, 06:01 PM

My slide-out has a lock that prevents the slide moving out unless the jacks are down. I have tried, accidentally, to move the slide without the jacks down and it won't budge. Needless to say it has never drifted open like you describe. I guess WRV changed the design but I can't imagine why.