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Old 12-25-2010, 08:52 PM   #29
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Thanks Norcal,

Happy Holidays,

Jeff
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Old 12-26-2010, 12:39 AM   #30
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Merry Christmas and happy travels in 2011.
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Old 12-26-2010, 01:14 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirchner56 View Post
On these coaches (his Beaver) there's a bellcrank between the pedal and M/C that provides a considerable amount of mechanical advantage. In order for the bellcrank to work it must NEVER go over-center. Mine started out at center and immediately went over, decreasing the assist all the way through the travel. It was a simple adjustment to remove the bellcrank attachment at the clevis, clamp the pedal up to maximum height against the floor, and then screw out the clevis to it's new position, unclamp, re-attach the return spring and you're good to go. It cut my braking force in half I'd say.

You may have to re-design the pedal extension or cut a slot in the plywood floor if your linkage is poorly designed. In my case it was just not assembled properly.

, it's progressive loss of mechanical advantage throughout the stroke.
Has anyone out there looked at the pedal, linkage and other mechanical aspects of the Alpine's braking system with kirchner56's experience and comments in mind? Our coach is 300+ miles away at the moment so I can't run down and look at the linkage to see if any adjustment or redesign is possible.
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Old 12-26-2010, 05:41 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal C&H View Post
Has anyone out there looked at the pedal, linkage and other mechanical aspects of the Alpine's braking system with kirchner56's experience and comments in mind? Our coach is 300+ miles away at the moment so I can't run down and look at the linkage to see if any adjustment or redesign is possible.
Read all the brake threads, one of the members modified the pedal bell crank arrangement with some success.
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Old 12-27-2010, 01:10 AM   #33
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I have a paper with photos (and appropriate disclaimers) if someone wants something to show roughly how it's done. E-mail me and I'll send it.
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:56 AM   #34
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Big Jimbo - I'm with you. For the money we paid, this thing is a mess, although I have fixed most of the stuff that was wrong with it when we purchased. Three things I have not fixed, one of them might be my fault because I did not know the suspension bracket for the HH was located above the rear end and it needs to be replaced. The cracks in the side behind the slides, the cracks in the front cap above the windshield are WRV crappy manufacturing and quality control. Our hope is we go to the store and it burns down to the frame rails. And when we get home in the spring, it goes up for sale, or we will trade it off for something else, as I'm tired of fixing it more than using it or trying to figure out a way to make something work that was mis-designed or not installed correctly. Hydro Hot rebuild, windshield wiper motor, windshield popped out, are a few.

However, the brakes have never failed to stop us when we needed them too. Do I like them, yes and no. WRV used that copper whatever on the rear line over the differential, and I wanted it replaced with SS. They also used two different types of connections for that line, one which was approved one of which was not, both of them were fixed when the line was replaced. Next spring it's time to power flush the fluid which is a maintenance item that should be performed on any hydraulic brake system about every two years, regardless of a car or motorhome. Would I like air over Disc better, it would take getting used to the lag inherent in that type of system. I have driven air brakes; it’s just a learning curve allowing a little more time to stop. There is maintenance with both types, so that a given.

Our inside rear wheels give us a false temperature alarm if I use the brakes too much going down hills because the brakes transmit the heat generated to the wheels on the inside duals and causes the air pressure alarm/temp alarm to go off. However, coming into Vegas the last time, I used the engine brake all the way down and never had to touch the brakes, so it works good now, once it was determined it was hooked up wrong with the boost battery switch.

Now every time we put the bedroom slide out, we have to vacuum up all the metal filings which have started to appear, so something in that slide, a spacer or something is failing, causing metal on metal to occur. I will have to deal with that once we get home. And the big living room/kitchen slide has to be put in every time it rains hard with a wind from that side or we will have water all over the kitchen. WRV built the best 5th wheels on the road for the money; they failed horribly with the Motorhome they built. That said there is nothing that drives better than an alpine, and I have driven a lot of big trucks, and several motorhomes. Nothing drives in this weight-length range like this coach.

And it goes on and on, like EM says the Ultimate DYI project!!!
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:09 PM   #35
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brake seize

Twice in the last six months we have had to apply the brakes hard. Both times it seems like one brake got hot and we could smell it. We have seen comments about lubing the calibers. How do you do that? Do you have to remove the wheels. Paul



Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom and Patty View Post
Having driven our Alpine 42K miles through the western US we have descended many grades with just the PacBrake. Tioga Pass, 8% for 6 miles, never used the brakes, Highway 12 in Utah, up to 12% never used the brakes, and the Colorado Rockies, 2 lane roads north to south, never used the brakes. We drive the grade out of Shaver Lake CA. many times a year, it is 7% for miles. The Grapevine, 6%, I have to step on the throttle to keep my speed up. If you start off in the right gear, your trip down the mountain might be slower than with a Jake brake but it is doable.

We have had a few PANIC stops in our 00 Alpine and we stopped faster than I thought possible. Maintenance if the key point. Change brake fluid and lube the calipers. Our coaches sit much more than a car does.

Never had brake fade in stop and go, but maybe I'm a better driver. We are not in a BMW even though it handles very well. So I drive in traffic like it weighs 32K GCVW.

Not that I haven't had a caliper stick because of poor maintenance, but the fix is easy, few bolts and a little bit of grease. I learned my lesson.


Most coaches used a PacBrake or exhaust brake. The Jake, which retards the exhaust valve opening, came in later years as Stretch mentions. Stretch also bought 2 Alpines before he purchased his Navigator.

Drive the coach, then drive an air brake equipped coach.

Trucks use air because mostly for the simplicity of hooking up to trailers.

Just my 2 cents, worth a bit more because I still own an Alpine.
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Old 01-06-2011, 11:43 PM   #36
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2golfers, The early Alpine's had slide pin calipers and needed to be lubed to keep them working properly. The newer Alpine's have fixed calipers no lube required. I believe the fixed caliper brakes started in 2000 or 2001. After that they are all fixed calipers.
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Old 02-05-2011, 06:27 AM   #37
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I have a 2003 40' FDTS Alpine Coach, have had it on the road for five weeks now and just attended the Rally in Quartzite. My coach has only 21K miles on it. My "ABS" lights just went on. Can you more experienced owners tell me where to start with this problem? Thank you as I have only owned the coach one year now and have lots to learn.
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Old 02-05-2011, 09:06 AM   #38
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Quote:
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I have a 2003 40' FDTS Alpine Coach, have had it on the road for five weeks now and just attended the Rally in Quartzite. My coach has only 21K miles on it. My "ABS" lights just went on. Can you more experienced owners tell me where to start with this problem? Thank you as I have only owned the coach one year now and have lots to learn.

Hello..

You probably have a blinking code sequence on your control panel via the ABS light. Count the blinks then go to the MeritorWabco.com and find Blink Code Diagnostics under Diagnostics and Troubleshooting.

It seems to me that many times the issues are at the wheel sensor itself. Often one of them is just it is just pulled out of its socket. Also on the front wheels you can purchase a sensor with a longer lead that gives it a little more room when turning sharply (cable is too short on some pulling it out of position during a sharp turn).

Maybe some of the guys can send you a copy of the Blink Codes if you can't find it. I don't have mine here or I would send you a copy...but I got it fron the Meritor Wabco site.

At any rate ..I wouldn't worry much about it just yet...it's generally something pretty simple.

Best regards..Stan
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Old 02-05-2011, 10:40 AM   #39
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I have a 2003 and the ABS light will come on at times but then goes out after restarting the coach or ?. From everything I've read on this forum and judging by the previous owner's maintenance receipts, one or more of the wheel sensors gets dirty but will then come clean on its own.

I've asked 2 - service shops in the Denver area and they both said that unless the light stays on "all the time" &/or you notice changes in braking, don't worry about it. You can pay to have the sensors cleaned and the light will eventually come back on.
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Old 02-06-2011, 11:42 AM   #40
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As Stan said check the blink diagnostic codes iaw the Meritor Wabco directions. If you don't have these codes and instructions check the IRV2 technical library or the M-W website. On our coach the switch, lights and panel are behind the dash panel on the passengers side. The ABS sensors slide in and out of the wheel assemblies. They are not held in place by anything but friction. To operate correctly the sensors have to be very close to, almost touching, the sensor ring. After having my tires rotated I got a right front sensor warning. Turns out the sensor had been pushed in too far. All we had to do was pull the senor out about 3/16" and all was fine.
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