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Old 09-15-2009, 09:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diceman1530 View Post
........does it ever end ?
No it doesn't....But what stories we have to tell around the campfire!
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:44 AM   #16
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Diceman,

Do not assume that your brakes are the Bosch model, I also have a 1999 model but my brakes are Bendix #4150844 same as on a GM C6500 truck, which is what the parts man said. Crawl up under the coach and take a look.
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Old 09-15-2009, 11:56 AM   #17
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GMFRYER,
Yep that was exactly what I have,they were used on the freightliner FL60 trucks of the same year 1999
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Old 09-15-2009, 05:09 PM   #18
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We're on the road and I smoked the left grease hub and ABS sensor due to a hung caliper. Fortunately, we were 10 miles away from Dutchess County Diesels and they had a new Stemco (?) grease hub. I was able to replace the hub and add grease so we could get to them in Millerton, NY.

After spending the night in their lot they got us in at 8:00 AM, removed the wheels, pulled, cleaned, lubed and reinstalled the calipers. After which, of course, they replaced the wheels and torqued them to 450 ft. lbs. with a calibrated Torque wrench. We were back on the road at 9:45 and only $180.00 lighter.

Pretty good (and da**ed lucky) ending but I need an ABS sensor. Can anybody help with a source?

BTW, my only reason for being specific about who did the work is that it might help someone else.
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:31 AM   #19
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I have a 2008 and the brakes really suck.. I travel always with the engine brake on and in the tightest setting..sure would spend a fortune getting an upgrade if it was possible but now just travel much slower and retired am not in a hurry anyway..Had the fluid checked at Guraranty and they said it was the right stuff and ok. Mel
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Old 09-17-2009, 12:42 AM   #20
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Mel:

Do a search for your brake issue. There are a number of threads that pertain to how much pressure is needed to stop. Some had real safety concerns. The causes seem to be:

- bad leverage of pedal (adjustment)
- various fluid changes
- seat positioning
- pump pressure

Mine is a 2003 and is quite easy to stop. When WRV went to the adjustable pedals (2004?), all sorts of issues cropped up. The leverage/adjustment issue seemed the most reasonable to me, but then again, I don't have an issue.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-17-2009, 12:02 PM   #21
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Bob,
I had an ABS Sensor burn up in '06. The part # is 0632-51-97. Walt's Radiator and Muffler in Fife WA did the work. Their phone #: 253-922-1478. I don't have a manufacturer for the part # but assume it is Bendix. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-18-2009, 06:27 AM   #22
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Hi Jeff.
Thanks.
Any information provided will help.

Bob
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Old 09-18-2009, 01:45 PM   #23
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I had the brake recall performed on my 2000 Alpine back in January 2007. Does anyone know if the replacement calipers are included in this recall?

My number one fear when driving the motorhome is having the brakes fail while going down a hill. I always use the pacbrake and lube it every year. Maybe I should get a surplus military parachute and mount it up under the rear of the motorhome so if the brakes fail I can send the wife back to pull the ripcord.
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Old 09-18-2009, 05:06 PM   #24
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No, but yes. I.e. there isn't a recall per se for Alpines using the Zoh-t or Zops Bosch brakes; however, all those calipers have the bakelite coated pistons and that brake caliper in a motorhome use is the subject of the Workhorse chassis brake recall (and maybe one other brand). Workhorse is also using that brake in delivery vans, and in that use there is no recall.

I don't know if you could convert to the Meritor 4-piston calipers that WRV used in later models, or if you would rather stick w/Bosch. In either case, the bakelite you have now seems to want to absorb water & swell over time so that w/heat it can swell enough to stick in the piston bore & overheat a brake.

If I had your brakes, I would do an immediate brake fluid flush and then repeat that at yearly intervals or until you get new calipers or get yours rebuilt w/out the bakelite. Note that I'm assuming there is or will be a rebuild kit to change out the pistons, or that you could order the new pistons as part of a kit you assemble for rebuilding. Don't know that Bosch is set up for that yet.
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Old 09-18-2009, 05:57 PM   #25
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Is bleeding the brakes a DIY job like it is on a car?
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:07 PM   #26
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If you can do it on your car, you can do it on your Alpine.
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:32 PM   #27
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Maybe I should get a surplus military parachute and mount it up under the rear of the motorhome so if the brakes fail I can send the wife back to pull the ripcord.
Tom and Laurel

EM posted this awhile back. It is his auxiliary brake kit. I think he sells it for $795.



I have a 10/99 build date, and I do not think we have had the brake recall done yet. I had trouble once with the brakes getting hot, but it was during an emergency downhill stop to miss a dog. We had some smoke. That was it.

I am going to change our brake fluid by the gravity method that EM recommends.
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Old 09-19-2009, 12:41 AM   #28
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For the Aux Brake kit shown above, you can try bungee cords instead of rope for a softer, more relaxed stop.

Gravity method may not work so well on the early coaches with the master cylinder below the driver's seat (less gravity advantage). However, you can rig a remote starter switch w/long enough leads and speed flush using the electric pump on the Bosch HydroMax (same pump you hear run when pushing the brake w/key off). Run the remote switch leads to the relay that operates the HydroMax 12V pump, push the button and I believe it will pump brake fluid thru an open bleed screw.

Let me know if this works.
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