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Old 09-20-2007, 08:44 AM   #1
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As you probably know I have had issues with my Aqua Hot system. These are my issues and solutions in hope that they may help you.

During our delivery walk thru with Izzy he informed me that I would not feel any warm air flow out of the heat vents, that was normal for the system and it would heat the coach just fine. I found the coach slow to heat, way too much heat in the cabinets where the heat exchangers were located and would not effectively heat at all on electric.

Your system may be different than mine or you might not mind heat in the cabinets, slow heating etc. Rather than tell you my process I will list the fixes in order of importance and ease.

1. Check heater vents in bedroom for size of opening.




Stock vent from my coach.




Vent I modified.




Difference in opening size.


2. Check heater ducts. Get rid of excess length and look for tie wraps causing many angles or crushing the duct. Check that fans are not restricted and both are working. Make sure that there is an opening into the area where the heat exchanger is located for "return air."

3. If you still have excess heat in the cabinets use metal foil tape to seal any air leaks at the heat exchanger plenums.

4. Just good air flow should eliminate the heat from the ducts and plenum, but if you are still heating in the cabinets and under the bed etc. you can wrap the ducts with duct insulation.

I have found that on all of the heater vents that I worked on I have a good air flow out now. I was not able to improve the vent under the shower as I am not willing to pull the shower out. I am sure that there is hot air being wasted blowing into the area under and around the shower.

Dale
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Old 09-20-2007, 08:44 AM   #2
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As you probably know I have had issues with my Aqua Hot system. These are my issues and solutions in hope that they may help you.

During our delivery walk thru with Izzy he informed me that I would not feel any warm air flow out of the heat vents, that was normal for the system and it would heat the coach just fine. I found the coach slow to heat, way too much heat in the cabinets where the heat exchangers were located and would not effectively heat at all on electric.

Your system may be different than mine or you might not mind heat in the cabinets, slow heating etc. Rather than tell you my process I will list the fixes in order of importance and ease.

1. Check heater vents in bedroom for size of opening.




Stock vent from my coach.




Vent I modified.




Difference in opening size.


2. Check heater ducts. Get rid of excess length and look for tie wraps causing many angles or crushing the duct. Check that fans are not restricted and both are working. Make sure that there is an opening into the area where the heat exchanger is located for "return air."

3. If you still have excess heat in the cabinets use metal foil tape to seal any air leaks at the heat exchanger plenums.

4. Just good air flow should eliminate the heat from the ducts and plenum, but if you are still heating in the cabinets and under the bed etc. you can wrap the ducts with duct insulation.

I have found that on all of the heater vents that I worked on I have a good air flow out now. I was not able to improve the vent under the shower as I am not willing to pull the shower out. I am sure that there is hot air being wasted blowing into the area under and around the shower.

Dale
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Old 09-20-2007, 09:31 AM   #3
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Dale- Per our PDI w/Izzy the screen below the shower is glued into place, and was there "In the Beginning" for one of the propane furnace vents, but is not used in the AHot system. It is probably still installed on AHot coaches so we have something to ponder.
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:04 AM   #4
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Mike,

Mine is definitely plumbed with heated air, just little comes out. It does warm the shower floor, but I hate to pay for diesel fuel to heat the floor or any area that I don't live. I did clean up the duct run to the shower with little improvement. The same clean up on the run to the toylet room (same heat exchanger and stock heat vent) made great improvement.

Dale
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Old 09-21-2007, 06:15 AM   #5
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In Dec of 04, Izzy gave the same explanations to me, I found as you the same crimping with plastic ties; the extra hose jammed in to tight spaces; and wire bundles crushing heater hose. Four years of indifference on the line, lack of management oversight, and our collective acceptence of the myth of "debugging" leaves us on the side of the road.

Next time you slide into the cramped seat of a new airplane and accept the announcement of a slight delay "due to a warning light that just needs a reset ...." ask yourself..." did this team of craftsmen get their start assembling RVs?
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Old 09-21-2007, 02:58 PM   #6
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Dale -- as we discussed in Newport, we've had the same experience you've described. I'd be interested to know if the various fixes you implemented had a significant impact. We're due in for the year-end warranty service first week of October. This item is still "on the list", and I will be pursuing it once again. Izzy has essentially told us that HydroHot/AquaHot is just not as effecient as the old propane heater. While our experience so far is that he is correct, one wonders why anyone would want to pay such a high premium for something that is less effective at providing heat. I'm hopeful we might be able to comment on this topic further after our visit to Yakima
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Old 09-21-2007, 04:09 PM   #7
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Tom,

I have yet to use it in the cool as it has been too hot here at home. As I mentioned I can feel much better air flow now so I expect good improvement. I am far to slow of a typist to post any longer explanations than I do now. If you want to call me on my cell I can go into greater detail. My number is in the ACA member list. As soon as I get somewhere cool I will post an update.

Dale
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Old 09-22-2007, 05:30 PM   #8
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We have had no problem heating our 36'er with the Hydro-Hot unit. It seems to be quite efficient.
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Old 09-26-2007, 09:02 AM   #9
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After using our hydro hot system I want to make an amendment to my things to check if you are not happy with your system. I would change #1 to #2, check ducts first. Then if you need to check the vents do this. A vent in the bedroom can be pulled by just removing the 2 screws holding it in and then carefully pulling the vent out. There should be enough duct to pull it out far enough to get to the duct. The duct is usually held to the vent by 2 screws. Run the heater and see how much air flow you have with the vent on the duct. Then take the 2 screws out and remove the vent, repeat the process and see how much air flow you have. If there is no difference then your vents are not restrictive. When reinstalling the vent make sure to put the screws back into the same hole they came out of, if you miss the hole and just screw it into the wood you could crack the wood.

Dale
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Old 07-02-2008, 03:33 PM   #10
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Dale, couple of questions, since we last talked.

1. Would the quiet fans you talk about work in the heat exchangers to quiet them down?

2. Later in this post you mention modifying the vents, how did you accomplish this.

3. We should all meet someplace and have a hands on workshop on the HH, seems folks love em or hate em. Ours heats the coach, but does not give us H/water, that supposed to be taken care of next week.

This is a real old thread, but thought I would bring it back up for new issues.
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Old 07-02-2008, 07:15 PM   #11
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Monty,

1. I have no complaints with the noise from the heat exchanger fans. I would be worried about changing them, as I want as much flow from these fans as possible. High flow = cooler temperature in the heat exchanger.

2. I modified vents and pieces I got from WRV as shown in the photos at the first of the post.

3. It sounds like you have this under control, with planned repair.

As to Jerry's comments about how his 36' works good, I have since looked at the 36' coaches and they use different vents in the bedroom.
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Old 07-03-2008, 07:08 AM   #12
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There were some early posts regarding the HydroHot fan wiring. I finally carefully checked mine and found that zone 1 & 2 were reversed. I reversed these at the HydroHot controller. If you set your zone temps the same, it may not make much difference. I guess I will have to wait for cold weather to get a good test.
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Old 07-03-2008, 09:58 AM   #13
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I had a 2005 Alpine with Hydro-Hot that heated very well in cold Michigan winters. My 2007 did not heat well during my walk thru and Izzy worked 2 days and it worked better but not as good as my 2005. Took mine to Holland Motor Homes in Mich. in April, 2008 and they moved the bedroom module close to the vent opening and added a vent in my bath console wall next to shower. This helped the rear of the coach. Module under couch was moved forward but can only get 85 degrees which does not heat the front along with module under dash in cold weather. Plan to return to Holland for more work.
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Old 07-03-2008, 10:00 AM   #14
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Wil, how do you set zone temps on the Hydro-Hot? Maybe that will fix my low temp in my module under couch. Thanks.
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