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Old 06-02-2008, 08:17 PM   #15
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OK so here's the scoop, since I started this post, Ive done ALOT of research on our hydraulics, and have decided to let someone who specializes in this field undertake my repairs. I took it to Acacia RV in Coltan, CA today. Not to my surprise there were three other Alpines in his lot. One was a 2001? that had its tow(surburban) rearended into itself, which was totalled, but to my surprise there was minimal damage to the coach. Another testiment to how tough these babies are. Anyway, Greg said that the problems we are having are not caused from heat but rather from fittings which began to fail allowing fluid between the outer jacket and the inner hose and that is what starts the blistering. I'm still going to shield it when I get'er back home. Thanks for everyone's help and advice.
P.S. My sink fell out on the trip to the shop.
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Old 06-03-2008, 09:26 AM   #16
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Hello Bill:

I saw you're Alpine and the hoses at the same repair facility mine is currently at. I want to see how they repair/replace the hose when they complete the work. Mine is the 2001 that was towing the Suburban when I was rear ended and the Suburban was totaled. I was traveling 55 mph when another vehicle traveling in excess of 80 mph rear ended the Suburban and pushed into the rear of the Alpine while driving through Utah.
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Old 06-03-2008, 11:39 AM   #17
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Dave,
Sorry to here about your misfortune , hopefully everyone is O.K. . Have you had your hydraulic hoses repaired yet or are you one of the lucky ones? If you have, did this shop do it and what did he do and how long ago was it. If you saw our coach then we must have just missed each other, I think we left there about 3:00 o'clock.
We have a trip scheduled for Big Bear at the end of this month. He said he'll do his best to have it ready.
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Old 06-03-2008, 11:46 AM   #18
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Our experience with hydraulic lines is to take them to a company that builds them, I have had many hoses blow and replaced on and off site on heavy equipment. This is the least expensive and quickest way, you can pick you quality. In florida (Tampa)use Amazon hoses

Jim
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Old 06-03-2008, 02:22 PM   #19
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My company has been dealing in hydraulic jacking equipment up to 300 tons for years. We have had hoses made by a local shop for 25 years and never a failure. I can't imagine if a fitting begins to let loose that the hose begins to bubble. That is absurd. The hose bubbles because it is way beyond it's heat restriction or/and both its PSI capabilities. Pressure or heat or both. Find a good hydraulic hose shop that makes hydraulic hoses for a big cat machine or something else with a PSI of 6000# or more at 6-800 degrees and your problems are solved. This is just not a difficult proplem. If HWH can't get a hose to work you can and quite easily. Our jacking equipment generally works on 10000PSI and at pretty much any temperature within reason.
It would probably work in Patty's GT, if Tom keeps his hands off of it.
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Old 06-03-2008, 02:51 PM   #20
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I, and an RV tech, replaced the rear slide hoses on my 06 34' in the summer of 06 in Cody, Wy. Here is my experience.

Both of the connectors blew off the ends of the hoses. They had been laying on top of the radiator. HWH was very good and sent out new hoses. These new hoses connected directly to the hydraulic pistons in the bedroom and were then routed across the front of the engine compartment, to the battery compartment. They were then connected to the flow control valve and the rest of the system, inside the battery compartment.

So..... there are no longer any connectors, or hose ends, in the area above the radiator. Also, WRV sent out some plastic shields which went around the hoses and then screw mounted to the bottom of the bedroom floor. This provided a shield for the hoses and keeps them about 10" above the radiator. HWH did confirm that the connectors were not designed to be exposed to the constant heat from the radiator and it was the heat causing them to fail. Hence, the new hoses move the connectors away from the radiator area.


I'm going on two years now, and so far so good.
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Old 06-03-2008, 04:25 PM   #21
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Ted,
Thanks for your input, your're what I was hoping for, someone in the field who has vast experience. Your advice is well taken. It sounds like you 've been around the block a few times with hydraulic issues. Have you personally had hydraulic hose failure on your coach?
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:17 PM   #22
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Hello Bill:

We were not injured and did not realize were in an accident until after I stopped to see what the noise was and why the coach jolted forward.

Acacia has replace some hoses over the years, never the same one twice, but my rear slide is electric not hydraulic. Acacia has been a great resource in repairing my HWH problems they have the equipment for building the HWH hoses.
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:22 PM   #23
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Once again, our third set of hoses failed when we didn't have the engine turned on; just cycled the wardrobe slide twice a day for a week with new hoses and no heat on them and they failed by blistering behind the fittings. Fourth set from HWH had different fittings and they haven't failed in 16 months. All sets after the second were routed away from radiator and had heat shield over fittings. If they hadn't failed in the cold test I might have been a believer in heat. Also, our HWH certified tech said they should take 250 degrees and the radiator just doesn't get there in normal operation. Then when they failed in use with no heat, and were replaced with others from HWH with different fittings, and haven't failed since, I'm inclined to believe in the fittings or hose, rather than heat, cause.
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Old 06-04-2008, 06:11 AM   #24
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WILLIAM SCHNIEBER, I have never had my hoses fail as yet. App. a year after I had the coach Mark Glazier(then serv mgr for WRV) called me and told me he was sending new hoses and a guard assembly for the hoses to my dealer for replacement. I had them take care of that and to this day I have never had a problem. I almost hate to write ths letter out of fear that something may happen. I do have the large HWH cylinder leaking inside my basement, (first door on passenger side) HWH has sent me a replacement sometime ago and hopefully I will get it changed this week. The leak was not that bad so I lived with it. HWH is not happy so I paid them for the cylinder and they will reimburse when I send the old one back.
How does Remco's disconnect work. I never knew anyone that had one and what vehicle are you using it on? I use their pump on a PT cruiser and it works great.
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Old 06-04-2008, 08:45 AM   #25
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Sure would have been nice if WRV had called me to warn me about the bedroom slide hoses. They, and HWH, acknowledged it was a known problem when I called them. Instead, my hoses blew in the middle of nowhere in Wyoming.

Another example where WRV could have been a "professional" organization, and wasn't.
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:13 AM   #26
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Retiredfields,
Welcome aboard , you better hang around here and check out previous posts because WRV isn't going to call you about the kazillion other problems your're going to incounter either. This place is a great resource for solveing problems and there are alot of great people here ready and willing to help. I've hung in this because, despite all the issues, we still love our coach.
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Old 06-04-2008, 10:22 AM   #27
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Ted III,
Thanks for the info. The disconnect is on a F150 Ford truck that I use for work (electrican). Alot of times we drive to the camp site set up and I go back to work while my wife and kids enjoy the sweat of my labor. The kids are homeschooled so that makes for many trips out. We're going to try to get back east and give them a on site history on our great country some day.
The disconnect has a lever with a handle on the florboard with a cable back to a the disconnect, you pull, it separates the driveshaft from the rear diff so that the transmission is not turning, it took awhile getting used to the proceedure of engaging and dissengaging it, but we did it. I didn't like the idea of a pump possibly failing but I'm sure there is some kind of alert system that tells you that.
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Old 06-04-2008, 09:02 PM   #28
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TedIII:

We also have the Remco driveline disconnect on our 2006 Toyota 4Runner toad. It is a V6 with 4WD, not AWD. It doesn't help with AWD cars; only rear wheel drive or selective 4WD where the rear differential is driving the wheels in 2WD mode.

We have been very happy with ours disconnect. We have driven the vehicle 42,000 miles and towed it an additional 41,000 miles in a little over two years.

As William says, it takes a little bit of getting used to in engaging the disconnect -- usually put the automatic transmission in neutral with engine running, then into drive and back to neutral while quickly pushing the little knob on the cable (located on transmission tunnel next to driver's seat) to the disconnect. This produces a slight grinding sound as the gears in the driveline disconnect mesh and engage. To disengage, I simply pull the knob on the end of the cable with the transmission in neutral and it usually disconnects right away.

Other than that, it's been trouble-free. The shop that installed the disconnect insisted on re-balancing the new driveshaft when they received it from Remco before installing it, because they said they weren't always well balanced when they came new.

The good thing about it is the only thing that's turning is the rear differential, side shafts and wheel bearings when towing. And the second good thing is it allows you to pick a lot more vehicles that you might like to drive better than those listed as factory towable.
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