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Old 08-01-2005, 04:19 PM   #1
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I've seen the post about having the correct length stems in the battery caps so the automatic battery filler will work properly. I appear to be set up correctly. My questions are... 1) Is there any reason the water tank should lose distilled water when the system has not been manually activated? and 2) If I hold the button down until water returns to the tank, should that be an indication that the batteries are full?
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Old 08-01-2005, 04:19 PM   #2
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I've seen the post about having the correct length stems in the battery caps so the automatic battery filler will work properly. I appear to be set up correctly. My questions are... 1) Is there any reason the water tank should lose distilled water when the system has not been manually activated? and 2) If I hold the button down until water returns to the tank, should that be an indication that the batteries are full?
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Old 08-01-2005, 04:27 PM   #3
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gator67, out of curiosity where did the distilled water come from? The only reason the tank would lose water is from a leak. Yes if the water returns to the tank the batteries are full. That is the way I understand it.
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Old 08-02-2005, 05:10 AM   #4
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Our tank had a leak - a fast one!

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Old 08-02-2005, 11:46 AM   #5
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Could also be evaporation from the tank if it is not tightly sealed.
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Old 09-03-2005, 01:15 PM   #6
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When I got the new stems, and replaced them all; I inspected each cell. One cell, in each of two batteries was dry. A week later, while on a trip, one of the batteries boiled over, and refused to accept a charge. WRV said take it back to the dealer....which I did. The dealer replaced all the batteries, but WRV took the position that the batteries are warranted for 30 months, and since I'd owned the coach 14 months, I was responsible for 14/30's of the replacements. Pointing out that it was the failed fill system rather than faulty batteries didn't move them. I'd suggest that you inspect the cells themselves....I'm going back to regular cell covers, and tearing the autofill system out....I don't intend to go through this again.
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Old 09-03-2005, 07:59 PM   #7
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FYI...battery maintainence can be a thing of the past if you install Trojan AGM gel-impregnated glass mat batteries! Install 'em and forget 'em...no battery fill systems...no checking water levels...no buying distilled water...imagine that!

More information is available by calling me on Tuesday!

Have a safe and happy Labor Day weekend!
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Old 09-04-2005, 04:12 AM   #8
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I recently had Lifeline AGM batteries installed. The amp hr's are 220 each batt. Check out site http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/rvflyer.php?id=4
I think the Trojan AGM amp hr's is only 180.
Mike, maybe WRV might check into selling the Concord Lifeline AGM, seems comparable to Trojan with greater capacity.
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Old 09-04-2005, 05:22 PM   #9
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Thanks for the info! You're figures are probably right, Jeff...but I would be VERY wary about manufacturer's claims when it comes to batteries...it's a totally unregulated industry.

I guess my point was that AGM batteries are the way to go if you want to install batteries and forget 'em instead of babysit 'em. What made you decide to go with the AGM's, Jeff? Sounds like you did some research before plunking down the considerable dollars for some (AGM's aren't cheap, people...hehehe).

(For what it's worth, I can get the Lifeline AGM's as well... )
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Old 09-06-2005, 10:57 AM   #10
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I've watched the auto-batt-fill system w/curiosity since our coach pickup on 8/15. Knowing what I know now, I'd stick w/standard lever-type triple-cap covers. My thinking is a) you can't visually check a battery w/out unplugging a portion of a cap-n-tube manifold that is a messy spider assembly, b) you can't hydrometer-check a cell w/out doing (a), and c) there was a neat manual fill system in the back of a fishing magazine (yacht owners have the same 'issues' w/batteries we do except for much greater stray current problems when in salt water). Standard caps are easier to pull for routine real-life batt troubleshooting.
W/that said, I'll keep the auto-fill in place since I've got it. More trouble to replace than to deal with. I did have the factory raise the tank about 3" to leave it clear of rear tire rock spray; the standard installation leaves it w/about 1/5-2" revealed below the steel bulkhead @ rear of batt compartment, & in harm's way.
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Old 09-06-2005, 11:26 AM   #11
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To clarify a statement from my last post from 9/4...

"You're figures are probably right, Jeff...but I would be VERY wary about manufacturer's claims when it comes to batteries...it's a totally unregulated industry."

I was referring to the BATTERY industry, not the RV manufacturing industry...and I should have said that it's a somewhat unregulated industry...it is not a TOTALLY unregulated industry. Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.
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Old 09-06-2005, 12:01 PM   #12
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Mike, to answer your question about what made me decide to switch to AGM's. The cost differance between wetcell & AGM's were about $450. for 6 batteries. I figure you'll replace wetcells about every 3 years and AGM's probably every 6 years. The cost then becomes a mute point. AGM's are far more efficient & no maintainence or checking if they need water, no headaches. Sound like a NO BRAINER to me.
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Old 09-06-2005, 12:41 PM   #13
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Thanks for the input! That's pretty much what I've been hearing from everyone who's tired of babysitting batteries and switched to AGM's.
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