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Old 10-31-2015, 02:50 PM   #15
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There are two outputs on the rear VMM that carry voltage to the backup lights, check for red LED's 6 & 7 on the output side, which LED's correspond to pins 1 & 13 on the lower right 35 pin plug on the VMM.
If they light but nothing happens, likely there is a problem in the loom. If they are flashing, there is trouble detected on the circuit by the VMM (see VMM manual on the ACA Tech Library for meanings of flashing LEDs). There is no input LED for Reverse, so the VMM has to take that signal off the J1939 CAN Buss signals from the trans.

If 6 &/or 7 don't light, either the trans reverse signal isn't getting out on the J1939 (gotta have Allison software to read that), VMM is busted and not outputting reverse lamp signal, or there is a trans analog switch indicating reverse that isn't contacting to initiate Allison reverse signal on the CAN Buss and I can't help you on locating that to test (but I believe the reverse signal is J1939).
Let us know what you find.
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Old 11-01-2015, 11:19 AM   #16
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I am not sure of this but my experience is that the back-up lights will not work unless the engine is running, not just ignition on. I needed power for a camera on the license plate to let me see the trailer ball when hooking up and wired it to the back-up lights.
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Old 11-26-2015, 02:02 PM   #17
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On my '03 should the backup lights in the taillights illuminate when the backup lights in the bumper illuminate. I've got bulbs and wiring going to the clear portion of the taillight assembly, but they do not come on when the lights in the bumper come on.
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:42 PM   #18
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OK, Eng. Mike, here's what I've done; no solution yet.

I killed 12VDC power, & unplugged output from rear Vansco. Opened up harness enough to read wire no.'s As I had said, LED's 6&7 had been flashing. They equated to pin no.'s one and thirteen, which connected to wire no. 1149, and an unmarked wire, which spliced together about 6" up the loom. So far, everything just as you described. I connected a hot lead to pin one in the plug, and got all back-up lights to light. To me, this means that the pos. wire connections in the loom are OK, and obviously also the ground. So that means everything aft of the plug is OK(?) If this in fact a fair assumption, then the problem must originate up front I guess.
In reverse with engine running, front vansco LED's are lit as follows; INPUT, 1, 3, and 5. OUTPUT, 1, 3, 7, 14, 15, 16, &17.
This is all I know, and it's obviously not enough. I can think of a work-around, if all else fails, but I would need to know which wire energizes re-verse on the tranny.
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:49 PM   #19
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OK, Eng. Mike, here's what I've done; no solution yet.

I may have posted incorrectly.. I posted at the end of the last reply after #14 or so.... Dudley
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Old 02-24-2016, 05:42 PM   #20
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here is what the VMM manual says about flashing LEDs:
If an output LED is FLASHING, the corresponding output that the LED represents is faulted. There are five types of faults that will cause output LEDs 1 to 18 to flash. These are short circuit, over current, back drive, no power detected at the output pin, and open circuit. There are two types of faults that will cause output LEDs 19 and 20 to flash. These are short circuit and over current.
-- A short circuit fault occurs when the circuit that a VMM output is driving shorts to ground. An over current fault occurs when the circuit that a VMM output is driving is drawing excessive current. A back drive fault occurs when the circuit that a VMM output is driving is shorted to battery voltage. A no-power-detected fault occurs if an output circuit is physically damaged or if there is no power on the output bus bars. An open circuit fault occurs if open load detection is turned on (via ladder logic) and there is no load attached to the output.
--Note: A back drive and open circuit fault is detected when an output is in
the off state and the short circuit/over current/no power faults are
detected when the output is in the on state
.

Soooo, IIWMI'd reconnect the 35 pin plug, and either back probe the 1 & 13 pins or pin-prick them to read ground or voltage. If there is no ground detected w/KeyOFF, then the circuit is open (not likely as you have driven it w/separate 12V). If there is 12V w/KeyON and trans in Reverse, then the VMM senses overcurrent, i.e. too much draw; first unplug only the left reverse lamp & see if it corrects, then unplug only the right; if circuit corrects w/only half the load then one or more bulbs are low resistance and need replacing.
If there is ground detected on 1 & 13, but no voltage out then the VMM isn't getting 12V to the 1 & 13 pins due to an internal problem. If that's the case, its time to do a relay work-around for that circuit w/a new analog input for Reverse taken off the Trans or the TCU, and that'll take more research to figure out which is a good source pin for the relay coil wire.
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Old 02-28-2016, 06:07 PM   #21
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solution to the continuing saga of the missing brake ligkts;

Eng. Mike; here's what I found, and my solution to same:
I had read some of what you quoted from the VMM manual, but some of it made my eyes glaze over. However, your suggestion to unplug the lights one at a time to see if that would expose a problem, did so, but not in the way you (or I) may have expected.
Engine running, brakes on, trans in rev., LED's 6&7 winking away, I picked a back-up light, and unplugged it. As soon as I did, the other three came on! So I thought to myself "gee I'm lucky, I picked the problem branch first", but just for grins, I re-installed that light, (then every went out), and I picked another light, and the same thing happened again. I ended up going through all four light branches, with the same results.
Your comment about over loading a cricuit came back to me, as a result of this experience, so I decided somewhere along the line, someone, (not me) had replaced some or all of the back-up bulbs with something larger, resulting in a circuit overload. The two bulbs in the red/orange/white assemblys, were 27watt, while the two rectangular sealed beams were 55 watts each. This amounts to 165 watts, or about 14 amps. I don't know if that's good or bad, but here's what I did. I cut the feed wire 1149, and installed a 30 amp horn relay. Across that relay, I connected the downstream end of #1149, wired directly to a battery hot. So the only thing the Vansco outputs 6&7 see is pull-in coil amps. I now have back-up lights. My guess is that they haven't worked since I bought it. But I'm still not sure what the real reason is.... Dudley
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