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Old 07-10-2011, 09:36 AM   #15
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The flush line comes from the water connection on the waste water compartment up thru the floor to a mushroom lookng vent/valve, hooded somehing or other mounted on 2' up onthe backside of the toilet closet wall..very hard to see, and totally inaccessible as far as I have found. Maybe what you are describing... Yes/No
YES. Very YES, that is it, that's your pain in the operating system.
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Old 07-10-2011, 10:05 AM   #16
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Stan:

I forgot about that darn anti-siphon valve. Yes, it is near the water heater, more behind the shower and difficult to reach. To work, it is necessarily above the tank and to accommodate easy construction, it's above the rails and flooring. It's a very cheap part, just impossible to get to.

After-market flushing systems often just use a check valve, but RVIA (?) probably required the ASV. The ASV is much more dependable from a reverse flow perspective.
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Old 07-10-2011, 12:28 PM   #17
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There is another way for the anti-siphon (Vacuum breaker) to fail, The unit should, in teory consist of 2 or 3 check valves, Under pressure one valve opens to allow water to flow and the other two close to prevent water escaping the assembly save through the outlet.

If those fail, water water everywhere.. EXCEPT in the tank where it belongs.

Option 2: You mentioned "Mushroom shaped" that type is often held together by screws.

And as I'm fond of saying: Many RVers have a few screws loose.. METAL screws that is, the kind you tighten with a screwdriver.
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Old 07-10-2011, 04:04 PM   #18
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There is another way for the anti-siphon (Vacuum breaker) to fail, The unit should, in teory consist of 2 or 3 check valves, Under pressure one valve opens to allow water to flow and the other two close to prevent water escaping the assembly save through the outlet.

If those fail, water water everywhere.. EXCEPT in the tank where it belongs.

Option 2: You mentioned "Mushroom shaped" that type is often held together by screws.

And as I'm fond of saying: Many RVers have a few screws loose.. METAL screws that is, the kind you tighten with a screwdriver.
Heh heh ..

I agree, and often the other kind too, including a loose nut behind the wheel...
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:13 PM   #19
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Stan:

Though they are cheap to completely replace, those valves are usually re-buildable, in place. That may be easier. You'll need a gasket kit. They are widely available through irrigation and plumbing companies. Still an access problem, though.
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:23 PM   #20
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Stan:

Though they are cheap to completely replace, those valves are usually re-buildable, in place. That may be easier. You'll need a gasket kit. They are widely available through irrigation and plumbing companies. Still an access problem, though.

Thanks Takepride..

The access is a huge problem if I were going to leave it where it is...but I've decided to not worry about accessing it any more, and bypass it with better plumbing and relocate it to a better, safer location.
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Old 07-12-2011, 12:57 AM   #21
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I've decided to.... bypass it with better plumbing and relocate it to a better, safer location.
Good idea!

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Old 07-12-2011, 01:13 AM   #22
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You might want to consider just abandoning the system and use a flushing probe through the toilet valve. Camping World and others sell them, or it's any easy DIY project to make one.
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Old 07-12-2011, 01:24 AM   #23
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You might want to consider just abandoning the system and use a flushing probe through the toilet valve.
PERISH THE THOUGHT!!!

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....or it's any easy DIY project to make one.
That's more like it, though certainly not challenging enough for an Alpine owner!
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Old 07-12-2011, 07:50 AM   #24
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I installed a one way valve in a RV black water tank years ago. It was really complicated.

I had to bore a hole in the side of the tank... install the fitting and screw a water hose on it to flush the tank. It took about 20 minutes...and it never once flooded the interior.

I think the lack of flooding was the inherent flaw of the device...and why it wasn't used on more expensive RV's....LOL!
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Old 07-12-2011, 11:17 AM   #25
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I have a vacuum breaker on my Damon, it works well, and where they put it if it ever breaks and floods.. It will flood only the water compartment (Which is all water proof and drains well) I have flooded that compartment on purpose a few times. (to clean it out when assorted stuff (leaves, dirt, debris of all kind) builds up in it. Easiest way to clean it out is to hose it out.

But that is a good design.. they put it where it won't cause damage when it fails.
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Old 07-17-2011, 01:27 PM   #26
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Stan:

While a one-way check valve may work well, when it fails, the results can be deadly for others (under a whole set of other circumstances). That is the reason an anti-siphon valve is used. If an ASV fails, there is still no back-flow. Cities, counties and states around the country do not allow simple check-valves to protect the water supply from the user's end. They require anti-siphon valves, atmospheric vacuum breakers and sometimes reduced pressure backflow valves. The anti-siphon is the minimal protection they will allow for you to connect to their supply.

Under the same theory, dump stations are labeled as having non-potable water, both due to the chance of contaminated equipment by users and the potential for backflow from unprotected RVs. Usually the water is actually from the same system the rest of the park is using. Most places cannot afford to install the equipment and piping for reclaimed water or lake/river water, let alone get certified. Many utilities companies will also not permit non-treated water to be allowed into the sewage system, since they cannot bill for the un-metered volume.

That being said... A series of redundant check valves would be safer and perhaps easier to install.

In my coach, there is a cavity behind the electrical panel,under the bathroom sink. It would be possible to install an ASV in a protected plastic enclosure with a drain port, in that location. (Just thinkin'.....)
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Old 07-17-2011, 01:52 PM   #27
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This is just a quess out in left field. Are you using a pressure reducer? I onced by accident hook up my water supply to the santi-flush instead of the water supply inlet, once the black tank filled, water flowed out of the air vent on the roof as well as from under the toilet inside the rv.
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Old 07-17-2011, 04:23 PM   #28
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This is just a quess out in left field. Are you using a pressure reducer? I onced by accident hook up my water supply to the santi-flush instead of the water supply inlet, once the black tank filled, water flowed out of the air vent on the roof as well as from under the toilet inside the rv.
RV Luvin..

Good thought...

...but yes I did and do have a pressure reduce on the water supply faucet. This park is known for it's high water pressure....garden hoses left out in the sun without a reducer sometime spring leaks.
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