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Old 01-26-2007, 10:23 AM   #1
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I'm starting my battery compartment overhaul project and am curious about a couple of things.

First, here's the existing rat's nest:


Now here are the questions:

Any idea what this might be? It's attached to the 'roof' of the batt compartment (floor of the coach.) The black 8g (?) comes off the house fuse, the B/R/B group goes towards the 'house' and the B with the fuse is crimp connected to a red wire heading towards the house.

Next:

Off the battery isolator runs two fused wires -- a red one and a red w/yellow trace (this one has a broken fuse) -- any thoughts on where these might lead?

I've read the posts on Chuck & Toyz's revamp and Cruzer's link to the RV Tech library (Tiffin). I used to own an offshore fishing boat so I'm very familiar with West Marine and their buss bars, fuses, etc. I'm planning on using marine grade wire.

Toyz mentioned an oxide inhibiting grease-like compound he used -- is there an actual name for this stuff?

I'm also planning to seal all the crimp connections with 3M 5200, shrink wrap the connection and put a second clear shrink wrap over a label indicating what the connection is -- if I can figure them all out!

I'll probably add an additional two T105's after I fab a tray to fit next to the existing tray and in front of the jack (I have no jack housing, BTW.) A Pro-Fil system is in the plans as well.

Thanks,

Mark
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Old 01-26-2007, 10:23 AM   #2
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I'm starting my battery compartment overhaul project and am curious about a couple of things.

First, here's the existing rat's nest:


Now here are the questions:

Any idea what this might be? It's attached to the 'roof' of the batt compartment (floor of the coach.) The black 8g (?) comes off the house fuse, the B/R/B group goes towards the 'house' and the B with the fuse is crimp connected to a red wire heading towards the house.

Next:

Off the battery isolator runs two fused wires -- a red one and a red w/yellow trace (this one has a broken fuse) -- any thoughts on where these might lead?

I've read the posts on Chuck & Toyz's revamp and Cruzer's link to the RV Tech library (Tiffin). I used to own an offshore fishing boat so I'm very familiar with West Marine and their buss bars, fuses, etc. I'm planning on using marine grade wire.

Toyz mentioned an oxide inhibiting grease-like compound he used -- is there an actual name for this stuff?

I'm also planning to seal all the crimp connections with 3M 5200, shrink wrap the connection and put a second clear shrink wrap over a label indicating what the connection is -- if I can figure them all out!

I'll probably add an additional two T105's after I fab a tray to fit next to the existing tray and in front of the jack (I have no jack housing, BTW.) A Pro-Fil system is in the plans as well.

Thanks,

Mark
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Old 01-26-2007, 10:44 AM   #3
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Good luck Mark, I just finished my upgrade just in time for the Desert Rat Rally. It took me about 3 weekends (coach NOT @ home).

Toyz pictures made me try real hard to do a good job. I'll post my pictures this evening.

Jeff.
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Old 01-26-2007, 10:52 AM   #4
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The three thermal relays 0n the celing are one for the pasenger seat, one for frige,and one that bypasses house fuse and goes to battery switch in font by stair well it should be disconected on both ends and not used.I replaced the relay with one the same amp rateing as the fuse. I think it was for the step. The two little fuses Yellow are for the chargeing of engine start battery from heart inverter. I hope this makes it clear fo you.
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Old 01-26-2007, 11:05 AM   #5
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MFortie:
Any idea what this might be? It's attached to the 'roof' of the batt compartment (floor of the coach.) The black 8g (?) comes off the house fuse, the B/R/B group goes towards the 'house' and the B with the fuse is crimp connected to a red wire heading towards the house. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The three small matchbox sized components on the ceiling of the compartment are Circuit Breakers. I know at least one is for the fridge. But, not sure what 'DR Dave' replaced and what he means by: "it should be disconnected on both ends and not used".

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Off the battery isolator runs two fused wires -- a red one and a red w/yellow trace (this one has a broken fuse) -- any thoughts on where these might lead? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
These are leads to/from the Xantrex Echo Charger. Replace the bad fuse, but most importantly, verify that the wire to the house batts is the wire that goes to the "House Battery" connection on the EchoCharger, and the wire from the Chassis batteries goes to the "Starter Battery" connection on the EchoCharger. There is a high probability that they are reversed.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I've read the posts on Chuck & Toyz's revamp and Cruzer's link to the RV Tech library (Tiffin). I used to own an offshore fishing boat so I'm very familiar with West Marine and their buss bars, fuses, etc. I'm planning on using marine grade wire. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I found a good price on the Blue Sea Systems bus bars at Butler Outdoors. I used 2/0 welding cable for all of the connections.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I'm also planning to seal all the crimp connections with 3M 5200, shrink wrap the connection and put a second clear shrink wrap over a label indicating what the connection is -- if I can figure them all out! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The battery place I went to had some real thick (1/8") shrink tube (initially 1" dia.) which definately provides a totally sealed point at the cable & lug connection.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I'll probably add an additional two T105's after I fab a tray to fit next to the existing tray and in front of the jack (I have no jack housing, BTW.) A Pro-Fil system is in the plans as well. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
My additional tray was a bolt-in assembly made of 1.5" angle iron and 1/8" steel plate. It was welded together away from the coach, painted, then bolted into place.

Jeff.
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Old 01-26-2007, 11:37 AM   #6
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Thanks all. I did some more research and did find out about the Echo Charger leads and the broken fuse resolves my dead chassis battery problem!

Mine might be wired correctly because the chassis battery dying issue is fairly recent and the batteries are not all that old. And they do charge from the alternator when the motor is running.

Jeff, the angle/plate is exactly what I was planning -- great minds must think alike!

Thanks again and I'll post pics when I'm finished.
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Old 01-26-2007, 02:35 PM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Jeff S.:
I found a good price on the Blue Sea Systems bus bars at Butler Outdoors. I used 2/0 welding cable for all of the connections.
Jeff. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You weren't kidding about better pricing; I save roughly $30 per bar!

Thanks!
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Old 01-26-2007, 03:35 PM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Desert Rat Rally </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Mark......

The three thermal overload circuit breakers mounted to the ceiling feed the refrigerator, front electric step and both front electric seats.

The oxide inhibiting grease like compound I used is called NO-OX it is a Conductive Grease and Lubricant for Electrical Contacts. Most hardware stores will have the similar product. It is always used for high amperage aluminum wire to copper terminals. For the coach and any potential moist application I always dip my wire in this grease before crimping (All wires 22ga and up).

I am on my way home from Desert Rat Rally.
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Old 01-26-2007, 05:24 PM   #9
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Gee Gary, If I had known you did such a great job on your battery compartment I would have had you show me while at DRR. (It was great to meet you two there).

Our coach (as new as it is) is already showing some signs of needing some care and TLC in the battery compartment. Gonna have to get out there and start now!
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:25 PM   #10
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Well, here is my battery compartment before I started:

Over the couple of weekends of work, I forgot to shoot pictures of the new platform by itself, before installing it into the coach.

But, heres a couple of finished picts:






The 1/8" plate bolted to the orig batt tray along the front and right sides. Angle iron to the RH wall and small pieces of angle iron to the vertical aluminum "T" channel on each side of the bay, and angle iron left to right on the outside edge "frames" the 1/8" plate platform.

I used four temporary bolts to hold all of these pieces together, then removed it all from the coach. Next, had the pieces welded together, including filling the 4 holes from the temp bolts.

I repainted the chassis battery tray, left and back walls, but didn't bother doing the RH wall. I also fabbed new battery hold downs using 1" angle iron and 1"x3/16" bar that I had powder coated black. Also ended up replacing all of the threaded rods.

The bolts holding the new tray to the orig tray are underneath the original 4 house batteries. Since the bolt heads could cause a problem underneath the batteries, I used old mud flaps to make a mat under the 4 orig house batts, under the 2 chassis batts, and under the 2 new house batts (can be seen in one of the picts above). The mud flaps are thicker than the height of the bolt heads.

I picked up some gasket material recently and placed it along the outside angle iron to seal against the bin door.

Here is the new wiring schematic that I posted on the wall:



Here is a picture of my connections with labels:



I have a verticle piece of metal to place between the jack and the new RH batteries, but have gotten tired of painting.

It was a "fun" project, and advise from Danny G. & Toyz (Gary) really helped!

Now that I have good storage, solar is next on my "to do" list.
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Old 01-28-2007, 08:30 PM   #11
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Jeff, Great job!! Great job of getting the pics posted too... very clear cut.
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Old 01-29-2007, 05:07 AM   #12
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Nice job and great documentation. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 01-29-2007, 06:49 AM   #13
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Thank you!!

That's a great job and the documentation (pics annotated, etc.) is superb.
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Old 01-30-2007, 03:47 PM   #14
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Beautiful! Now I have something to strive for!!!

Jeff, what did you do for ventilation in the battery compartment?

Also, I've noticed on your coach and others I've seen, there is a white panel (looks like a frame component) above the frame but on mine it's open to the engine compartment. Anyone know what this is?

(See the pics in the above posts...)
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