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Old 06-29-2015, 07:53 AM   #15
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Rick,

Those green-top Interstate batteries have a date on them. They look like my GC2's I just installed. The date stamping is rather difficult to find because it's stamped into the green top. I believe it's close to the outside edge around the positive terminal but can't verify that right now (not at home). I do know for sure it's stamped on the green top because the Interstate guy showed me. Even then it was hard for me to find it later.
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Old 06-29-2015, 08:35 AM   #16
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Bob - It's hard to read but they might be 2007. There is stamp under a label that says Made in Mexico and on the next line it looks like C1 or O1 and then *007 the * represents a number I can't make out.

twinboat - Like I said above I didn't realize that the chassis and house batteries are connected together. I had a trickle charger connected last night to the chassis batteries. This morning when I realized the chassis and house batteries were connected together I disconnected the charger.

I also have disconnected the negative wire from the panel on the back wall of the compartment and the negative wire that connected the chassis batteries and house batteries together.The chassis battery voltage has already dropped to 12.9v.
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Old 06-29-2015, 09:46 AM   #17
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OK--first thing is to keep this conversation inside the Apline family--outsiders mean well but are often guessing. We need to establish a baseline here before going forward. Suggest you use the search tool on this forum to learn about how Alpines function--we all have been here....

1] your chassis and house bats must be tied together at the negative posts--provides common ground

2] on later models with Vansco, the bats are tied together for charging purposes only--the #19 light shows the connection via the large solenoid based on voltage perameters in the Vansco system [by charging one bank withoutside charger, the Vansco was charging the other for you]

3] "gassing" during charging is fairly natural as bats get older....specific gravity and load testing are the only real ways to determine bat condition....as bat get older, adding 2 oz of mineral oil to each cell will slow gassing....

4] the rs2000 inverter has a by-pass circuit which allows 120v feed of inverter circuits while on shore power--at a glance the breaker boxes appear stock--perhaps a thin second breaker was added to spread distribution.

5] the rs2000 has a hibernate mode in the menu that effectively puts the inverter to sleep--no charge, no invert, no fans. On my rs2000, one of the two sets of fans seems to run continuously, unless in hibernate mode.

Keep asking good questions and try the search function -- if you are still concerned about the wiring behind the breaker boxes not being OEM--you probably need a qualified electrician familiar with rv inverter systems to validate for you....
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Old 06-29-2015, 12:22 PM   #18
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house battery replacement

I had been in need of new house batteries for about a year. I searched many forums for advice. The coach had 3 AGM batteries by Discover. My mind was made up that I was going to stay with AGM. It appeared that the best AGM battery in the size I needed was manufactured by Rolls. They are very pricy. After more research and the help of World Wide Batteries, I found that a Full River Battery is exactly the same as a Rolls, but much less. I purchase 3 Full Rivers and it solved my problems.
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Old 06-29-2015, 07:30 PM   #19
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Thank you to everyone for your replies.
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Old 06-29-2015, 07:51 PM   #20
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Rick,

Here is a link to the Interstate Battery FAQ on date codes. If you see "C1" that appears to mean it was shipped in March of 2011. The other digits relate to where it was made.

Interstate Batteries | Mr. Battery | Age of Battery | How Old is My Battery
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Old 07-07-2015, 07:14 AM   #21
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Follow Up and Outcome

Just wanted to let everyone who has replied to my post and given me help know what was the final outcome of my battery charging problem and breaker panel question. Thanks again for everyoneís responses.

I pulled all 10 batteries. Three of the eight house batteries were dry. I removed and discarded the watering system. I think it is difficult to know if it is working. I left the pump/tank and added a longer hose so that I always have a convenient water source for the batteries. The bottom of the battery box was a bit rusty but I cleaned it up and coated it with some SEM Rust Shield paint. I also put a rubber mat underneath the batteries. I was impressed with construction of the battery box itself and the fact that it is replaceable.

The battery install went great. I did get the Costco Batteries for the house. I was able to get an Interstate rep to find out the Ah capacity of those batteries. They are 208 Ah and the GC2-XHD batteries are 232 Ah. The Zantrex configuration for total Ah capacity set at 440. I changed this to 880Ah.

I had the system charging for two days. Here are a couple of things I donít quite understand. After two days plugged in to shore power my Zantrex SCP indicates float mode and 13.6 volts. This number bounces around and can go as high 13.9 and as low as 13.5 volts but mostly stays at 13.6. The current as you would expect bounces around with it anywhere between +.08 and +1.8. Battery temp is 84 degrees, which is close to ambient. Using my DVM I measure 14.1 volts on both the chassis and house batteries. If you remove a battery cap the water is just slightly gassing. Very tiny bubbles every 3-4 seconds. I unplugged shore power, as I donít know how healthy it is for the batteries to remain at 14.1 volts for a long period of time. Also the battery interconnect solenoid (led 19) remains on all the time.

As for the breaker panel modification done by the first owner this is what the second owner had to say about that. "The by pass breakers were installed by the previous owner. I used it rarely. Basically it bypasses the inverter so while you are plugged into the grid the power bypasses the inverter completely. His thinking it would lessen the wear and tear on the inverter since it continues to run while you are plugged in. Of course the batteries will not charge in this position. I would leave it in the inverter on position".

Again thank you to all that have replied.
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:48 AM   #22
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Many have had trouble with xantrex when set at anything other than 440 for amp hours even though they had battery capacity more than that. I set mine to 440 and it worked much better.
It sounds like your batteries are being over charged. If changing the amp hour setting doesn't help try disconnecting the battery temp sensor at the xantrex unit. Sometimes they go bad and sometimes the unit goes bad. I changed mine to a magnum.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:38 PM   #23
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Jim another knowledgeable member said the same thing to me. I will give it a try. Just curious is changing out your inverter somewhat plug and play or is it a big rewiring job.
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Old 07-07-2015, 04:00 PM   #24
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Fairly easy.
You have to run the wire for the new temp sensor from the battery's to the inverter and change the end attachments on the remote panel at the panel and the inverter.
The magnum uses 4 wire telephone connections. The xantrex uses 8 wire cat 5 connections.
If you replace with a new xantrex than the connections are the same as you have.
The battery and 120v connection are easy to do. Make sure you turn off all incoming power and disconnect the batteries first.
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Old 07-08-2015, 02:08 PM   #25
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Jim, I tried to fish the phone line of the new BTS from the battery compartment to where the Xantrex was mounted but it was impossible. I elected to cut the old one off and splice the new one onto the existing line using telephone lollypop connectors. Worked great.
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Old 07-08-2015, 02:41 PM   #26
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FWIW I am bothered by the voltage differences. I would take a DMM and measure the voltage from the post center to the clamp on each connection. I would also measure from one center post to the next one the cable goes to. It should be way less than a volt. Any readings approaching 1 V would have me cleaning and checking the cables. HTH.
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Old 07-08-2015, 03:12 PM   #27
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Janet or Todd,
Splicing the new BTS to the old wire is a good alternative. But always doing things the easy way could reduce your motor skills over time. Crawling around under your coach and fishing wires requires some practice over time. Cleaning the under side of your engine and trans with your t-shirt and shorts is also an added benefit.
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Old 07-08-2015, 06:09 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrthor View Post
It's a RS2000 Xantrex. I have four manuals. This is a bit overwhelming but I will figure it out.

Thanks
Hi Rick,

Be careful with Xantrex and AGM batteries. I had the MS2000 and it developed a problem charging my Lifeline AGM's. It cooked the string because of a bad temp probe circuit. Xantrex told me that it was unrepairable. The inverter was a $1500 throwaway after a year and a half.

If you are going with AGM's consider upgrading your inverter to Magnum. I have the MS2812 and I am very pleased with it.

Wet cells do boil under certain conditions. If your batteries are not shorted internally this should not last too long as they come up to full charge. But water does get evaporated off and the batteries need to be topped of every few months. If the plates become exposed to air this reduces the storage ability of the battery and should be avoided at all cost. AGM's don't have this problem and love to be charged at a heavy rate. Wet cells not so much.

I think your other questions have been answered.
Your inverter fan should not run all the time.
You have a inverter sub panel.
Your inverter has a built in Transfer Switch separate from the coach transfer switch.

Optima batteries (Car, Marine, & RV Batteries | OPTIMABATTERIES) make a good AGM deep cycle as does Lifeline. This coach uses the Optima (NAPA) AGM's and they are original. Great performance. I am very happy with my electrical component setup.

Hope we are all providing you with worthy information.

Happy trails,

Rick Y
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