Community Forums

Todd49 · 03-24-2011, 10:51 AM

Does anyone know if an adapter is made to take the RV electric supply cord ( 50 amp) to a regular wall recepticle? Would that supply enough power to keep the batteries topped off using the onboard charger? I don't currently have a 50 amp outlet in storage and just want to keep the batteries charged.

Paul R. Haller · 03-24-2011, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Todd49

Does anyone know if an adapter is made to take the RV electric supply cord ( 50 amp) to a regular wall recepticle? Would that supply enough power to keep the batteries topped off using the onboard charger? I don't currently have a 50 amp outlet in storage and just want to keep the batteries charged.

There is available a 30 to 20 amp cheater cable but I do not know of a 50 to 20. You just may have to get a 50 to 30 and then a 30 to 20. 15 or 20 amps is more then enough power to keep batteries charged and even run many accessories too. On my old 30 amp trailer I only had a 20 amp recepticle and used a cheater adapter it worked great but don't try powering your AC with it. It will run for a while but it will overheat the 20 amp cheater and it will melt.
-Paul R. Haller-

Old Scout · 03-24-2011, 02:24 PM

Sounds like a trip to Camping Word is in order--and yes, you will need to step down from 50 amp to 30 amp and from 30 to 15/20 amp. These adapter pigtails are handy for on the road anyway. One caution--your inverter/charge will draw 20 plus AC amps at full charge [but not if you are just topping off{float}]. Problem is if you lose shore power and your bats drain down, when power is restored, your inverter/charger will jump to full recharge mode [bulk] unless you set the "Power Share" setting on the inverter/charger to 5, 10 or 15 amps. This allows the inverter/charger to "share" the limited 15/20 amp shore power feed from your house, regardless of bat charge state.
PS--with a heavy duty 20 amp extension cord, you can run one A/C unit [18 amps to start and 12-15 amps to run] but everything else on 120AC [eg, water heater, inverter/charger, microwave, etc] need to be off.

Jeff and Cheryl · 03-24-2011, 07:37 PM

Todd,
What size inverter do you have?

kraig · 03-24-2011, 11:24 PM

If all you want to do is keep the batteries topped off, there is no need to run run your inverter/charger all the time. I use two Schumacker Model SE-1-12S Automatic Battery Charger/Maintainer. They are not very expensive. I use one for the house batteries and one for the chassis. If you have good batteries that are charged when you store it, these keep them charged no problem. I used on my 2000 and 2007 now for 11 years.

Todd49 · 03-25-2011, 05:22 AM

Jeff, I have a 2,000 Watt inverter. I went on Camping Worlds web site, ( don't have a store close by) and they had a 50 to 20 amp adaptor so I ordered it. $88.00 for the unit. I will be able to plug in a day a month to top off the batteries. Thanks everyone for the feedback.

Todd49 · 03-25-2011, 05:25 AM

Thanks, I ordered one from Camping World. They had a 50 to 20. $88.00 shipped. Should be what I need. Don't think I will ever run anything on the coach from shore power with this set up. Just top off the batteries.

Jeff and Cheryl · 03-25-2011, 11:42 AM

Todd,
FWIW, I have 10 amp service where I store my coach. I can run a battery charger and a small electric heater and don't have any problems. I just make sure that the chassis and house disconnect switches are in the off position and throw the breakers for the inverter.