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Old 04-03-2008, 01:51 AM   #15
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Hi Brad.

Assigned to Cavalla (Qualified on her) and Dogfish. Rode the Albacore and Thresher on exchange.

Bob (Squidly Down Under) & Peg - 2013 Ford Focus pushing a 2011 Phoenix Cruiser 2552S
"In God we trust" to preserve our country and bring our Troops safely home.
Carry on, regardless..................
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Old 04-03-2008, 07:50 AM   #16
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 94
Thanks for the various ideas and inputs. I agree that the "best condition" is to self fill and check the electolyte level and specific gravity on a regular basis, but at 62 years of age with a back that doesn't like to bend the way necessary to check the batteries - especially the back two, I have opted for ease over best. The fill valves in mine are # 34's which according to Mark at WRV and Tyler at Battery Fill Systems are the correct units for the Golf Car PowerVolt Premium Deep Cycle batteries in the coach. Tyler had me measure the distance from the top of the battery cell to the outside of the battery case (2") and the # 34 measures 2" when the float is fully extended. When the float lifts or closes it travels about 1/2" which means there should be a little over 1/2" of water in the cell to lift the float - IF it is working properly and not sticking.

2006 - 36MD Alpine

Being pushed by a 2006
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:27 AM   #17
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Concerning the battery cleaning please see the Thread "Electrical Tips" The solusion mentioned in that thread works, no cleaning needed, and trust me, it's real expensive to have a High Voltage Electrician go up on a tower to clean stuff, better to use something to protect the connections which last many years. Nice info about the fill system, just another tip to keep in mind and check when I get the new coach home.
Monty & Janet - 2007 Alpine APEX 40 MDTS
S/N - 75715 - Retired - Master Certified RV Tech
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Old 05-09-2008, 08:35 AM   #18
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To update everyone on how I ended up ...Chris, formerly with WRV, send me the #29 floats before they closed the doors so I replacedthe # 34 floats I had. These should increase the water level in each battery cell by 5 mm, or about .2". I also cut the hose on the pressure side of the water fill system between the pump and the first battery cell valve and plumbed a Tee with a shutoff valve in the new leg. Now before and after using the water fill system I open the shutoff valve to introduce air and break any vacuum that might be holding the floats in each battery cell up and closed.

I don't know if any of this helped as I have yet to pull the floats back out to check the water levels.
2006 - 36MD Alpine

Being pushed by a 2006
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Old 05-09-2008, 07:04 PM   #19
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I have the new system that relies on an old sustem (gravity) to fill the cells. Same plastic tank, but instead of electric pump there is a small valve on the fill line. If I leave it on all the time, some floats spill onto the battery tops. I found that turning it on while driving ~110 miles will fill all cells that are down, then I shut off the valve.

But there are still downfalls of sticking floats to worry about, so AGMs are next when this bank is showing its age.

I'm using DeoxIT Shield where I've had corrosion problems on batt terminals and like the results. I think you get better battery life if your connections stay clean, allow full easy charging, and don't contribute to stray current discharge across the top of a leaky battery. For which I have nothing but deductive reasoning to offer in the way of proof, so there.
Baja-tested '08 2-slide 36'
Alpine: The Ultimate DIY'er Project
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Old 05-10-2008, 12:43 PM   #20
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I chase the corrosion problem around my battery compartment. I clean the corroded termials with battery terminal cleaner and then add battery terminal protector, and it helps, but it's not bulletproof. I find there's always one bolt or connection someplace trying to corrode, so it's about a once every three month cleaning and protecting of some connection.

I don't like to rinse the batteries with water so I'm careful to rinse only the spot where I put the cleaner.

I keep our battery compartment clean using a Swiffer Duster. Everytime we dust the inside of the coach with a hand held Swiffer, I go down to the battery compartment with the used duster, and then dust the batteries and everywhere I can get in that compartment without pulling a wire loose. Then I throw that duster away and wait for another slightly used one. I find this keeps the battery compartment almost like new and doesn't introduce water. Also, the duster is plastic and doesn't give me a potential for a big short.
Former Owner, 2006 36MDDS
2010 Arctic Fox 22GK Travel Trailer
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Old 05-10-2008, 01:34 PM   #21
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The Swiffer makes a lot of sense OldForester. Now I have a use for the ones my wife is throwing away!
Jerry and Judy
Fremont, California
2017 Dutch Star 4018
toad 2012 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
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Old 10-05-2010, 06:29 PM   #22
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Bob and Peg...
Ran across your old post while looking for info on our battery fill system on our '04 MDDS (not working). Bought the coach used in sept '08, so don't know if the floats were replaced or whether it's even the same system (I don't see a push button, there is a small motor/pump mounted near the bottom of the reservoir). The real reason your post caught my eye, however, is my dad was the Albacore's first skipper. We 7 kids grew up among you diesel-smelling guys. Anyway, if anyone is still following this thread and you know anything about our system, give us a shout. Thanks.

John and Susie Balistrieri
San Diego, CA
2004 Alpine Coach 36' MDDS; 2013 Honda CR-V
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