Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Alpine Coach Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 04-03-2014, 09:03 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 19
Battery Isolator

I have a 2004 Alpine 40ft. FDTS that I installed a 270 Amp. alternator on because of what I had read about battery demand on the stock 160 amp. alternator. recently the alternator failed, when I took it to North County Rebuilders, John told me I had blown all 6 diodes , which he said rarely happens and suggested I check the battery isolator. Being familiar with the battery compartment I thought the isolator would be behind that neat little panel above the batteries, well surprise,surprise,surprise, no isolator. Can anyone help me with locating this device? I looked where the inverter is and in the front Gen slide, and wonder if it is under the coach somewhere. Thanks for any help
__________________

__________________
TDREAMER01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 04-03-2014, 09:36 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 240
If you have the Vansco system than there isn't a battery isolator. A solenoid is used to isolate the batteries.
If you don't have the Vansco system than the battery isolator is in the battery compartment on the rear or inside wall.
__________________

__________________
Jim & Sandy
2008 34' FDDS Alpine
Limited SE
JLMunsil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2014, 10:03 PM   #3
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 19
battery isolator

How can I recognize what system I have? I must have the Vansco system because there is no isolator in the battery compartment. There is a battery isolator in the diagram that came with the coach.
__________________
TDREAMER01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2014, 07:31 AM   #4
Senior Member
 
Wil Rathke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 283
On my 2005 the Vansco control panel is on the wall of the battery compartment and is plainly labeled as such.
__________________
2005 38FDTS
2011 Ford Edge
Fredericksburg, TX
Wil Rathke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2014, 08:26 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Algoma's Avatar


 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Charleston, WV
Posts: 2,639
If you do have the standard battery isolator it will not take the output of a 270 amp alternator. Unless you upgraded all the wiring and components and added extra batteries I am not sure you will gain much from the extra output of the alternator.
__________________
John and Mary Knight
2015 Newmar Ventana 4311 - wheelchair accessible
2015 Cadillac SRX Luxury AWD
Algoma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 11:12 AM   #6
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 19
battery isolator

The reason I went to the 270 amp alternator is after doing research on alternator outputs with the 8 batteries on my coach and the understanding that each battery takes approximately 25 % of output and you can only use about 75% of the total capacity I felt the 270 was a good alternative. Since installing the 370 my batteries have been at a much higher voltage charge when I arrive at a destination so my generator does not need to start as soon as before. I do a lot of dry camping so that is an issue for me. Also the 370 has a higher charging rate, close to 14.2 where as my 160 used to shut off at about 13.9 and that .3 volts makes a difference with my auto gen start.
__________________
TDREAMER01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 11:15 AM   #7
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 19
This question is for Wil Rathke, is your isolator called a interconnect controller?
__________________
TDREAMER01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 11:17 AM   #8
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 19
This question is for Wil Rathke, is your isolator called a interconnect controller? I have nothing that says Isolator
__________________
TDREAMER01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2014, 01:09 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Auburn, CA, Havasu, AZ & Mulege, BCS
Posts: 5,217
If you have something that looks like this (view on the link is the top, your view will be looking direct on at the two small studs with two large studs on left/right), then that is your "isolator" and it is run by the output of the #19 LED on the Vansco module located on the left wall of battery box looking into the box (front bulkhead making up batt box). If you have nothing like that inside the panel, you may have a battery isolator in the engine bay near the opening into the battery compartment.

IMHO 270A alternator is too big for other components in the system. I'd go 200, maybe 225, but not above that.
__________________
Baja-tested '08 2-slide 36'
Alpine: The Ultimate DIY'er Project
EngineerMike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2014, 04:21 PM   #10
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 4
The 270a Leece Neville alternator you selected is a very good, high quality alternator and it's having a large alternator is not inherently problematic. The fact that you blew the diodes within the rectifier plate is an indication that something goofy is going on within the electrical system. Perhaps poor grounding. Perhaps faulty components downstream. Are the blown diodes blown by thermal breakdown and toasted, or elevated voltage. Not enough information to help you but all your interconnect components should be rated to sustain around 300 amps based upon the size of the alternator so I'd start with that. If it a solenoid style isolator, it should be a big one. If it's a solid state isolator, Perfect Switch has the highest current capacity with a negligible voltage drop. Cabling should be beefy.
__________________
jumpshowhigh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2014, 08:25 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Wil Rathke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 283
EM Mike's photo of the solenoid is probably what you will find mounted on the back panel of the battery compartment. No, it is not an isolator nor does it function exactly like an isolator. An isolator consists of 2 large capacity diodes that direct current from the alternator independently to both battery banks. Charging current from the battery charger will not charge the chassis battery bank. Therefore WRV installed an Echo Charger to provide a trickle charge to the chassis batteries.

The large solenoid could be termed as an "Interconnect Controller". It connects the house and chassis battery banks together under control of the Vansco microprocessor and also the battery boost switch on the dash. The Vansco microprocessor senses both the house and chassis battery voltages and then operates the solenoid as needed with the #19 output signal.
__________________
2005 38FDTS
2011 Ford Edge
Fredericksburg, TX
Wil Rathke is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2014, 09:42 AM   #12
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 19
Thanks to all of you, the interconnect controller looks nothing like the old Ford starter relay but it does connect the chassis and house batteries. The rebuilder told me to look for a loose connection or a faulty cable, either one could create an open circuit the could blow the diodes, but the positive cable, after physically tracing it from alternator to battery box, is a solid cable with the exception of the thru frame stud connects directly to the chassis battery and then goes to the interconnect controller so there isn't much af a chance of that being open. I guess back to the rebuilder and ask if anything else could have created this failure. This alternator is only two years old with less then 20K miles on it, again thank you you all for your guidence and help.
__________________

__________________
TDREAMER01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
battery



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Large power draw on chassis battery '94 Kountry Star omegacanuck Newmar Owner's Forum 54 01-31-2016 09:22 PM
Apex Battery Solenoid vs. Isolator casper124 Alpine Coach Owner's Forum 12 05-10-2014 09:27 AM
Battery charging mystery Kenneth Neal RV Systems & Appliances 12 02-25-2014 06:34 PM
Battery Advice sjkted Class A Motorhome Discussions 33 02-06-2014 09:12 PM
73' Sportscoach Dual Battery Isolator Problem crosby716 Vintage RV's 7 01-30-2014 01:26 PM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:31 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.