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Old 10-02-2009, 12:53 AM   #29
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All,
We are in Coburg, OR at Cummins Coach Care, to have some service work done. The service writer confirmed the rear brake line is copper, and said it needs to be changed, hopefully tomorrow, flush the system, and two more HWH problems, and then we can head for home. I like this place, they are very considerate of your coach and keep you informed what is going on, and when they say it will be back in your spot by 5pm they mean it. They won't start a job unless they can finish it up before then. I met one of my neighbors, and he had HWH hose problems on his Winny, they fixed the initial problem, but stripped out two screws in a threaded bracket which HWH needed to make. He has been sitting here for two weeks, but CCW, told him it was no charge since they stripped out the threaded screw holes, now I like the honesty in that all day long.

I will check to see if their is a board update on the Genset to alleviate the Code 27 issues. I won't hold my breath.

TP - My comment was based on the year of your coach, it may be fine. Breakers can be tested, and dale's load scenario makes more sense to me on that. However, I believe the starting load is tripping the breaker form the A/C unit on the leg 1, which is causing your issue. Move the hair dryer to leg 2 and everything should be good, or wait on the Ac unit for a while. When we are in some Thousand Trails parks the electricity is horrible, so I bring up my Silverleaf system and watch the load on both banks from the 30 amp supply, usually my A/C hits in the 6-7 for the initial fan, then up to 15 for the compressor, then within less than a minute it is down to 9-10 or so. On our coach, if I remember, the front A/C is on Leg 1 and the back one on leg 2. Now, I have not been any place where we needed both units at the same time except twice, and because I had only 30 total available, I alternated between units to get the temp down. If it got really bad, I started the genset, as that power is much better, consistently 123V on both legs, and only down to around 120 with both A/C units running, never less than that even with the microwave.

OS - Dale - all; I checked the dash ac unit today, and I have a rubber hose attached to a common drain point on my ac unit which carries the water off to the PS side of the area and away from the genset. I don't remember seeing any water on the genset at all. But, I am going to figure out some way to put a plastic cover over that area so it won't happen anyway. Water and electricity should not mix in any form, as bad things happen.
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:02 AM   #30
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Monty:

When you say that your genset runs both ACs, reefer and microwave simultaneously without tripping the 35 amp breaker, is the Xantrex also charging the batteries at max output (148 amps)? The hairdryer is using Leg 2, the micro Leg 1 (inverted), reefer Leg 1 (inverted), charger Leg 1. Front AC Leg 1, rear AC Leg 2.

Dale:

I see that my dash AC drain runs beside the genset and drips on the ground, but have seen water on top of the genset on occasion. Maybe the wind is pushing water back up.

Depending on Monty's answer, I'll try limiting my charger output to see if the breaker trips. It'll have to wait until I boondock again at Quartzsite, unless I recreate the problem on purpose.

I'll also see how much I can limit the charger, using the Control Panel without tripping the breaker.

Thanks for your help!
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Old 10-06-2009, 01:09 AM   #31
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Take- I think one problem w/dash air condensate is that it doesn't necessarily come out where is should. If unit isn't sealed up properly, it can drip on whatever is below. You might check to see if a length of that self-stick plastic rain gutter available at CW or in back of FMCA magazine would alleviate that issue as a potential problem, affixed to the firewall below the dash AC and draining to either side of gen.
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Old 10-06-2009, 02:28 AM   #32
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Takepride

If we are going down the road, the inverter is providing power to the Refer. Once we get there, I let the charger run for 24 hours, not limiting its output. But I don't ever remember the charger output being higher than about 85 amps. I will start to monitor this so I get some idea of what is going on there. This is to bring up the batteries and keep them there. Once that has happened, I turn the charger off. I also turn the inverter off as well, because I would sense the difference in sound the coach makes if I lost shore power.

I have not stressed the system other than to run both A/C when shore power fell below 108V on a very hot day. Since it was lunch time, we needed the microwave at the same time and had no issues.

My guess is I don't have the load on my coach you have running on yours. I will say I do enable the charger about every 4 days or so to make sure the house batteries are up. Being as there are only the BH and I, we don't use a lot of electricity unless it's real hot or we need the HH for heat at night. We generally stay outside a lot walking or riding our bikes. I have not ever tripped the Genset Breaker.

I also have not noticed water on the Genset, but then again, I don't think I have ever checked. I am thinking of some sort of cover over that area, and have not come up with a good plan. Winter is here and so it's a moot point now, as we most likely won't run the dash A/C until spring. That gives me time to figure out a way around the drips. As I mentioned, there is some kind of catch basin with a hose attached to the central drain under the Dash A/C, and it seems to carry that water away. Now I am going to try to take some silicone caulk and do as good a job as possible sealing up the bottom seam where that catch basin meets the firewall. Regardless, I still want to cover the breaker area and switch, I will figure out something.

EM - Camping world wants better than 50 dollars for 50 feet of the stuff. I am going to see if I can figure out a better way or find a smaller amount of it. Good idea on wicking the water away from the genset.

All that being said, I am sure, I will find things I don't know or have not seen as we take the cross country trip starting later this year. After I tightened all the a/c stuff (this forums information and guidance) I have had few issues with electrical things. I do hate the dishwasher, and am considering taking it out, changing the stove so we have an oven, but that is next year more than likely. Keeping it locked and remebering to do so is starting to get on my nerves. And RV techs dont seem to notice it, or lock it when they move the coach unless I explain it to them. I have Cummings NW in Portland, OR trained on it.
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:19 AM   #33
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Monty,

Why are you turning off the inverter and charger? The charger will not over charge the batteries and with the inverter set to on, it only starts it if the shore power quits. If you are getting the cycling from the battery bank jumper solenoid, then you can just turn off the chassis battery switch while parked. If you do, then turn it back on for a while every week of so to make sure that they are staying charged.

I am not much interested in a dishwasher myself, but have many friends that have them and wouldn't want to live without it. Before you take it out you should try using it for a while. As to your concerns about the lock issue, I have made a start up check list, that I always check before hitting the road. The new Motosat has no automatic stow feature like the old one had and it seems like I use to always start out with one sliding door not latched.

To check for the dash AC leak problem, you will have to wait for some hot humid weather, I don't see much of that in my home area. Lots of the hot, just not much of the humid.

Takepride,

Monty's, and anyone who hasn't changed from the stock RS200, charger is limited to a max of 120 amps, 30amps (@ 12v) less than ours. The RS3000 will also let you split the load thru it into 2 legs. This only effects the system when an outside AC is supplying the power. When the inverter is suppling the power the 2 circuits are jumped as it only puts out 120vac single phase (one leg). I was going to do this my self, but after checking my circuits I have decided that I am balanced fine.
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Old 10-06-2009, 11:12 AM   #34
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To those that want to prevent A/C condensation from getting into the GenSet, consider using 3M aluminum foil tape across the seams of the GenSet case. See this link:
3M Aluminum Foil Tape 425 : product information aluminum foil tape 425, technical data sheet 425, 427, thermal conductivity

You can buy this or a similar product at Lowes or Home Depot.
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Old 10-06-2009, 12:10 PM   #35
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Dale,

My concern has been water in the circuit breaker. This is the problem I had with the last coach, the water then, came from a small leak in a heater hose. The water got into the circuit breaker thru the front of it, probably thru the breaker lever. It is not in the best of locations, it is right under the generators own water fill.
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Old 10-08-2009, 12:04 AM   #36
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Dale:

Thanks again for your input. I now realize Monty has the RS2000. Maybe the extra charging amps in my RS3000 is putting the load over the top. I also inspected the top of my genset closer. Paint is peeling in several places and rust is developing. The water is coming either from the dash A/C housing or draining in through the seal of the nose slide. I'm starting to lean toward bad breaker at this point.

Also glad to learn how the inverter connects the two legs (single phase) when there is no shorepower. I really ought to study the manual better. Does the Power Share only control the charge rate? If so, I'll lower it to 30 amps and test again, though I'm fairly certain I still tripped with that setting. Thanks!

Dale777:

Good idea for sealing, but the breaker is not sealable. Maybe a cover can be devised. Sealing the box of the genset wouldn't really do too much. I don't think much water is getting in there, but it would keep the edges of the paint from peeling and rusting. Not pretty, but practical.

eMike:

I'll look at the possibility of diverting the leak, if I cannot seal the housing. Thanks!

Monty:

It sounds like my scenario is a bit different from yours. My genset breaker trips when I have no shorepower, am charging the batteries after draining them overnight, am using a residential fridge, am using two ACs and either the microwave or a hairdryer. (My inverter is obviously on.) Running down the road, I have no problem (and hopefully not using the microwave or hairdryer). It's when I'm boondocking and recharging drained house batteries.
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Old 10-08-2009, 12:26 AM   #37
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Monty:

Wanna trade? I have a lovely oven and stovetop just looking to be replaced by a dishwasher and stovetop. Maybe we can meet at Acacia RV for transplants.
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Old 10-08-2009, 12:48 AM   #38
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TP-Yes your situation is different. I also agree you might have a bad breaker. Check PPL Motorhomes or E-Bay for one, but since it seems to be a single phase (maybe double pole-but not sure) based on comments, then on it someplace is a name of who made it, then you can most likely run down to ACE hardware and get one, I say ACE, because they usually have what I need when Lowes, and HD don't, and they are my first spot when trying to match breakers. If not, and I am a novice on the type of breaker, you might have to get it from Onan, OUCH!!! I know they have a good selection of Residential Breakers, since I have changed lots of those.

All, I have given quick consideration to some type of plastic aftermarket box which might cover the area and retrofitting it to make it work. Something made by Tupperware or Rubbermaid, because I want to see inside the area even when covered, also those are heat tolerant and so will last a long time. Rigid plastic would most likely crack due to road vibration and the shaking of the genset over time, where the other ones are a little forgiving in that area. I have not spent a lot of time doing the engineering of it, so I am batting at flies until I give it some good brain cell work.

Dale – I looked at my copy of the Onan manual, and yes the coolant fill is right above the breaker. I purchased a funnel with a long "L" shaped neck which also unscrews from the funnel and that one allows me to put coolant in without spilling it. However, it takes two people, one to hold the funnel, the other to pour coolant into the funnel without spilling it (same problem adding engine coolant). A much better way would be to use a large household (like the ones at restaurants) catsup squeeze bottle with a clear plastic tube inside the spout, then it would come up the tube and into the genset, and usually you don't need a large amount of coolant anyway. I use that method to put chain and bar oil in my chainsaw, so it does not spill all over (+20 years on the same bottle). Plastic tubing is something that can be had at HD or Lowes, and almost any kitchen supply has those plastic bottles. Get a piece of tubing that is a little bigger in size than the hole in the spout, or if you have to cut the spout, then stick the tubing up inside first so you can gauge the hole size to be cut. A longer piece of tube than the bottle (12-18”) since you want the tube almost to the bottom of the bottle so when you squeeze you have all the volume the bottle holds, plus you might have a tight spot or a longer reach for the engine coolant fill.
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:27 AM   #39
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TP - the wife unit wants to use it for our long trip and then she will know. She has a wonderful bran muffin receipe she makes and has not gotten used to the convection oven as of yet. Maybe next year, but the dishwasher is really a pain unless you get used to always locking it when plugging in, it stays locked when you unplug, but once shore power or the genset powers the coach it unlocks. Go figure, smart would have kept it locked until I wanted it unlocked, but what do I know.
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:48 AM   #40
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Monty:

After much baking in the convection, I can highly recommend it over the regular oven. Lower temperatures, better finish, moister result. It just takes a little adjustment in time and temp settings. I think you'll be happy with it. Though we cook full meals regularly, I only use the oven to keep things warm for big groups and for storing extra pans when traveling.

Boy am I going off topic!
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Old 10-08-2009, 10:57 AM   #41
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takepride,

It does sound like you are asking just a bit much from the gen at the time all of those things are running at the same time. When on the gen or plugged into 30amps, as we are now, I limit the load accordingly. Try adjusting the load share setting, you might have to set it below 30amps, and then watch the amps being used. If that doesn't work well for you, try lowering the Max Chg Rate setting. With the panel set to "Advanced Menus," you will find it using this path.
RS3000
Configure inv/chg
Max Chg Rate.

Quote:
My genset breaker trips when I have no shorepower, am charging the batteries after draining them overnight, am using a residential fridge, am using two ACs and either the microwave or a hairdryer. (My inverter is obviously on.)
Your inverter is set "on," but will not actually turn on until the 120vac power source is removed and then the charger will turn off and the inverter will start. When 120vac power is supplied, it feeds through the Xantrex.

The circuit breaker is not a "standard" breaker, it is some sort of special single mount, double pole, single lever breaker. I would try adjusting the load first
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Old 10-08-2009, 01:26 PM   #42
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find the circut breaker for the dishwasher after locking turn the breaker off dishwasher will stay locked
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