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Old 10-09-2009, 12:57 AM   #43
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TP- we have tried corn bread and bran muffins, and I'm sure once we use it a some we will get used to its features. We like to eat at home a lot, for food safety and because we need to watch our coin. When we do go out one place we like is Sweet Tomatoes (Souplantation in CA) as it has a lot of different stuff, mostly salad, soup and fruit, and I know for a fact the company requires all the restaurants to have 95% or better on the health inspections or they change managers. I know the mgr of the one near our home well, and his is spotless clean. Now what was that about off topic?

Dale - I figured the breaker was some special esoteric brand, which would need to be purchased from Onan and cost $$$$$.

Since I have the apex, accessing the advanced features is not easy, and I don't have the Xrantrex control panel. There is a code I can get from Silver leaf, and I think I have it someplace. I just watch my use and set the system incoming amps via the SL display, and it seems to manage it well enough for me. But then we don't have parties trying to feed the whole campground or anything.
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Old 10-10-2009, 01:56 AM   #44
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Dale:

Great explanation of the inverter bypass. Some articles I've read complain about how the genset charges the batteries, then the inverter turns it back into 120 volts and how wasteful and inefficient the process is. In fact it was just mentioned in a recent blurb on RV News. It makes more sense that the Xantrex merely bypasses the inverter while charging and that charging and inverting are mutually exclusive.

My original thought was that I was abusing the power source. However, my friend Monty got my hopes up. Oh well.

I'll keep testing. I'll also ask Cummins to test the breaker (if they can) next I need their services.

Monty:

Funny you should mention Soup Plantation and the Health Department. The local restaurant was closed by our Health Department after lots of people got very sick (one? death) on Alfalfa sprouts. It never recovered from the bad press and went out of business shortly thereafter. I, too liked the food, seemed fresh. A bit pricey (at the time), back before restaurant prices skyrocketed.

P.S. - I think I just shot the heck out of this topic.
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Old 10-10-2009, 02:17 AM   #45
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Wow, those little pesky sprouts, I never eat them any more, as they are not safe, taste good, but oh how they can get you. I am sorry that one closed, they have great food. I believe that was the reason, the parent company is buying up farm land and starting to grow their own vegtables. They then can control what goes on the plants, and who picks them.

As far as I can tell, there are not any Onan Parts available online. The manual on mine does not have any electrical schematics, so no description on the breaker. The only mention is to turn off loads if it trips, and then reset it. You could check onan/cummins web site to see if there is something their, I have not been able to find more than manuals. No diagrams.
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Old 10-10-2009, 02:43 AM   #46
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Thanks Monty! I'll google for some Onan schematics.
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Old 10-10-2009, 01:55 PM   #47
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takepride,

It can get very confusing with how all of the multiple systems in our coaches work. Our generators, do produce DC internally and convert it to AC with its internal inverter. This allows the generators motor to run at a low (quiet) speed when the load is low and then speed up as the load increases. The generator only outputs 120vac to the coach system and our Xantrex units charge the batteries from this AC input to it.

Most gas generators, at least the ones I use to have, have to run the motor at a constant speed to produce the 60 cycle AC needed. The throttle has to increased and decreased as need for the load, while keeping the rpm constant.

And as I posted before, I do think that you might be "abusing the power source."
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Old 10-12-2009, 01:26 AM   #48
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Thanks again Dale. I see the DC to AC to DC waste arguement is true.

Also, I'll try to keep the abuse down, lest the neighbors notice. LOL!
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Old 04-03-2012, 05:05 PM   #49
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Solenoid problem finally fixed - over 2 years later!

So, we were at Quartsite this year, and I was chatting with Tom Anteau who was parked next to me. He mentioned a program problem with the Xantrex 2000 that I should be aware of. It seems that if you set you battery amp load above 600 amp hours of capacity, the charger doesn't work correctly.

I have a 675amp battery bank, and faithfully had the Xantrex also set for 675ah. Tom said, try changing the setting to 600 and see what happens. I did, started the generator, and saw something I've never witnessed in 3 years we've owned this coach. The charge rate ramped up to 120 amps! The most I'd ever seen before was 20a or so.

It seems there is a known fault with the Xantrex 2000. If the amp hours are set above 600, then the charger never goes beyond float stage. My house batteries had never been fully charged in the 3 years I've owned it!

THAT was why turning on a few lights was enough to drain the battery below 13v, which in turn caused the solenoid to pull the engine battery out of circuit. When the Xantrex is working correctly, it ramps up charging power to compensate for the increasing load. Amazing!

(for those reading between the lines, yes, I realize that my original batteries were probably not bad. And, yes, I wonder what damage has been done to the new set of Trojans that have been on trickle charge for 3 years)

I wonder how many other Xantrex 2000's are out there in permanent trickle charge mode?

This thread is now concluded!
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:50 PM   #50
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Scott:

That issue extends to various settings. My old bank had 660 Ah and I had to set the Xantrex to 650 to get it to work. IIRC, there were a few other levels that would not charge properly. Several other posts mention this issue (in the past). You might try some of the other levels and the resulting charge Amps. I'm not really sure it makes much difference at your currently set level.

Of course, Xantrex denies everything, and have for years.

BTW, the 3000 watt version will charge at 150 Amps and doesn't seem to have the same "setting level" issue.
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:28 PM   #51
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Battery boost solenoid

This seems to follow the solenoid problem. Recently while dry camping my engine battery when dead (3 different times) When I used the bost switch every thing started up. This is the comment from the garage. "The batteries are being charged by the vehicle alternator. Batteries test good on load test. The current draw is a solenoid that couples the battery banks together. It is on all the time ~1.4 amps. According to the manual it should come on with the dash button and on certain other conditions to charge the starting batteries. It is on all the time. Need further information and diagrams to diagnose the problem. Bateries will not go dead when plugged in on shore power. When the chassis batteries get low enough the solenoid shuts off. Coach will not start because of low chasssia batteries. Pushing the dash will energize the solenoid and start the coach. The solenoid is energized from the chassis battery"
Apparently, while dry camping the solenoid will discharge the chassis batteries. Is this the way the solenoid is supposed to work?
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Old 06-28-2012, 02:54 PM   #52
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Battery boost solenoid

This problem seems to follow the solenoid problem. My chassis batteriies have gone low enough that they will not start the engine or the generator. A garage found the following "The batteries are being charges by the alternator. Batteries are good on load test. The current draw ~1.4 amps from the cassis battries is the solenoid that couples the battery banks together. It is on all the time. according to the manual it should come on with the dash button and under certain conditions to charge the starting batteries. It is on all the time. Need further information and diagrams to diagnose this problem. Batteries will not go dead if the coach is plugged in to shore power. When the chassis batteries get low enough on voltage the solenoid shuts off. The coach can then be started by prssing the boost switch which will then energize the solenoid and let the house batteries start the engine"
It would make sense that the solenoid should be shut off if there is no charging power being supplied ( like when dry camping). Somewhar similiar problem different slant.08
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Old 06-28-2012, 03:47 PM   #53
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Bob- if you are dry camping, (and assuming your wiring is original) the only way the solenoid can come on (indicated by LED# 19 on the Vansco panel in your battery compartment) is by solar panel indicating to the Vansco a voltage high enough on house batt's that it will think there is amperage to charge the chassis batteries also. On mine, when it does that, the chassis batt's are usually low enough that it will draw the solar charge volts down below the (I think) 13.1V threshold set in vansco programming, and LED19 goes out; solar voltage goes back up, LED19 goes on, solenoid clicks On, repeat.

I get a standing draw of ~1.4A on my chassis batt's no matter what. Only way to stop that is to disconnect them.

Check your three large battery switches on the rearward bulkhead of the battery compartment; I've run into coaches that had chassis & house batteries connected since birth by the middle switch (Emergency Parallel) being ON. this has the same effect of the intertie solenoid being ON.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:32 PM   #54
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FWIW - If the middle switch if ON, that will cause the big 300A fuse to blow when trying to start the coach. I was specifically warned to not to turn it on for any reason especially if I was going to try to "START" the coach. My rule of thumb is, use the battery boost switch (does essentially the same thing) as the middle switch in battery compartment.

FWIW2 - I have two of the solenoids recommended by EM, I carry them as spares. I have noticed that if the AGS starts the genset (Dry camping) it wont shut it down correctly and tends to overcharge the house batteries. I know this because the solenoid clicks until I run the house batteries down by using the inverter to bleed off a little bit of that energy. Since it's still clicking, I know it's contacts are not fried, but carry the two spares for the time when it does fry and won't click anylonger. I wanted to change it proactively, but getting the nuts and it's assembly lose and removed proved a larger problem than I wanted to do on the road, it was/is one of my maintenance items once we get the coach back home or someplace I can work on it.
EM can clarify but I think if it's clicking it's doing its job, as he explained above. My guess is if the genset is running/shore power connected it won't engage/dis-engage unless the system calls for charging the chassis batteries. Please go over it again for us of limited intelligence.
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:41 AM   #55
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Bob,

My coach is an '09 with Xantrex 2000 just like yours. Normal operation is as follows:

Solenoid on all the time until battery voltage drops to 13.0 volts. Then it drops out so the chassis and house are separated, preventing you from running down the starter battery.

If your solenoid stays on below 13 volts, then something is wrong with the programming, or a defect in the Xantrex.

I would recommend that you set your battery bank capacity to 600 amps in Xantrex setup, regardless of your battery AH capacity (assuming you have 6 house batteries). The Xantex 2000 does not charge correctly when set higher than 600.

Making the above change on my coach resolved all my battery/Xantrex related problems.
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Old 06-30-2012, 01:38 PM   #56
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Battery boost solenoid

Thanks for all the replies. In reply to the last one from Cinnequip I have a question. I agree that when the voltage drops the solenoid disconnects the two battery banks. But my engine battery goes dead. Is the solenoid energized to stay connected or is energized to disconnect in which case it is drawing 1.4 amps continually from my engine battery which is causing the battery to lose power to start the engine which doesn't make much sense.
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