Bedroom slide, Eng Mike, how about?

[Mule Skinner]

Old topic that will be back.
New question, can the distribution block be adjusted to lower the PSI going to the slide?
I do not want to have this problem again!
Dan

[Mule Skinner]

Old topic that will be back.
New question, can the distribution block be adjusted to lower the PSI going to the slide?
I do not want to have this problem again!
Dan

[EngineerMike]

Dan- I have no idea, but it is an interesting thought. On my 06, the extend/retract rate is sometimes slower than others, indicating to me likelihood of lower pressure at times (or else increased resistance, but I truly have no idea what would cause either one).
However, w/that said- I'd spend some calories elsewhere first. The reason for the busted hydraulic lines (I'm assuming that was the problem you don't want to repeat) was heat from the radiator. Had a discussion w/the HWH rep during the Newport pre-rally about that. The first level of problems came from lines laying on the radiator, which is obviously no good. Second level, once lines are secured to bottom of floor assembly above, is accumulated heating cycles softening the mylar-like sheath that wraps the line to assist in making the press fitting connections, thereby allowing the connection to fail.

HWH recommended installing a metal heat shield (piece of sheet metal to deflect all radiated and most convected heat around and away from the lines) covering the lines above the radiator. Should be easy for the average DIY'er to do. Home Depot has thin-gauge galvanized sheet metal for flashing that would be ideal. Just need to measure the area to be covered, add for bends to stand off the floor and clear the lines, and add 1/2" for flanges for screwing to floor bottom. HWH opined that would effect a permanent fix.

[OldForester]

EngineerMike,

I haven't disagreed with anything you have said on this forum and I have a lot of respect for your views, but when it comes to what you said about the busted hydraulic hoses on the bedroom slide I am in disagreement.

Being on my 3rd set of replacement hoses on our '06, and having had them replaced by a certified HWH technician (who didn't have a dog in the fight with either HWH or WRV), it was fully his view that the heat from the radiator that the hoses laid on wasn't enough to cause the problem; that the hoses should take 245-250 degrees and the radiator doesn't get that hot.

We moved ours the first time we replaced them away from the radiator and it didn't make any difference - they leaked. Then we installed the flexible heat shield over the hoses that WRV sent us before Desert Rat Rally, moved them away from the radiator and the new ones leaked again. Then We got a 3rd set from HWH that were different from the first two, installed them in the heat shield from WRV, moved them again away from the radiator and they haven't leaked since in 5 months and 9000 miles. The previous ones leaked with just a few extensions/retractions (about one trip each).

It was our technician's view that HWH had some bad hoses/fittings (and he had replaced hoses from HWH at the same time in new Monaco Signatures) and our experience certainly supports that view.

I think it makes sense to move them away from the radiator - but 5 or 6 inches seems to be plenty, especially when the fittings are covered by WRV's flexible heat shield, and you have the newer hoses from HWH.

So I would take HWH's reps' words with a grain of salt -- and I would tell him he's full of $#@* if I was talking to him.

By the way, the picture of our last installation that appears to be working well thus far is in the gallery on our previous thread on this item, and I can resurrect them if needed.

[Mule Skinner]

I may be wrong, but I think the rate of opening and closing has to do with the level of the batteries. The Hydraulic pump, I think, is run by an electric motor and I find if I start the engine before bringing in the slide it travels a lot faster. Faster rotation of the pump develops more pressure (?) I have used my coach several times since replacing the hoses and installing the shield provided by WRV, all seems well. If it blows again, I will look into installing a regulator inline.

[OldForester]

I haven't noticed a faster rate of closing or opening with the engine running; but speed seems to be fairly fast on our 06 in either case. I notice speed is faster when the hydraulic oil is warm, like after driving all day and shutting the engine down vs when it's cold in the morning. Your point on pressure with a faster pump probably has some merit.

Our bedroom slide continues to move inward on closing after I release the switch. I've learned to let it travel the last 3 inches or so on it's own to final closing (e.g. let go of the retract switch). I think this helps relieve the pressure in the system and thus reduces pressure on the hoses, when they're stationary, and I think that's a good thing, as long as there's enough pressure to keep the slide closed.

EngMike, I need to correct the previous response--I think it's a good idea to get the hoses away from or protect them from the heat (ours are fastened to the floor but right behind the radiator grill cover so they get cooling air before it hits the radiator and this helps keep it cool.) All our hose failures were at or next to the hose coupling, and that's what WRV's heat shield covers. My disagreement is that I think HWH had a hose/coupling problem for a series of these hoses, because the final set of hoses we received had slightly different couplings. The new Monaco Signature I mentioned in previous message didn't have any heat next to its hoses -- it lost the whole set on 4 slides. And it received replacement hoses with couplings similar to the last ones we received, according to the HWH certified technician.