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Old 07-21-2013, 05:40 PM   #1
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Bedroom slide hose again.

So, my bedroom slide hose failed again. I tried opening the valve and pushing in by hand. I'm getting old, I could not get more than 2 inches of movement. So, I drove 250 miles with the slide out 7 inches.
Now I am pulling the hose out and I will take it to a local shop that builds hoses. I am going to ask if there is a super hose that will not fail?
My real question here is, do I need to bleed the system? If so, how do I do that?
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Old 07-21-2013, 06:33 PM   #2
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Lots of info in this thread:

Bedroom slide hyd.hose failure
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:24 PM   #3
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Dan, when I had to replace the equalizer for the front slide out I called HWH to discuss the procedure and specifically asked about bleeding the system. I was told that the system is self bleeding. You just need to run the slide out in & out several times cautiously while make sure it doesn't try to bind on one side. If it does, retract it and start over as often as it takes to get the equalizer to work. They said to just maintain the proper fluid level before & after running the slide out in & out multiple times.

My very best advice would be to contact HWH Technical Support and determine the best procedure.
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:13 PM   #4
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I'm pretty sure HWH will refer you to a document on their website. If so, please post the link. Thanks
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:17 PM   #5
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I replaced the rear closet hoses, 1/8" diameter, 600 psi hoses supplied by HWH with 1/4" 580 psi hose of the same manufacturer. One of my vendors, Royal Brass, said the hose part number used on my coach did not show up in there book. There opinion was it was a special made hose for WRV.
The hose's I removed looked like they had blisters all over it. After inspecting the hose I concluded the blisters were not fluid leaks, but simply blisters in the thin outer plastic casing from heat. (It was the fitting that let go in my case).
The 1/4 inch hose I used to replace with had a more plastic/cloth look to it. I also add a kevlar slip on jacket to further protect from the heat.
I know one Alpine owner had a hose fail with out even starting the engine.
I think that was a bad crimp or bad hose.JMO
Also shortened the hoses by 30" so it was just one loop and straight into the fitting instead of several coils resulting in the hose coming at the fitting at an angle putting pressure on the crimped fitting.
So that's what I did.

Dan
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Old 08-11-2013, 10:25 PM   #6
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Mule Skinner,

I was the guy with the hose that failed without starting the engine. That being the third set of wardrobe hoses, and being integrally involved with each one, that hose issue was a bad hose and a bad fitting. it bubbled about 6-8 inches down the hose from the fitting, and the replacement hose from HWH had different-looking fittings. The one failure before that had the hose routed away from the radiator. So if two sets of hoses fail and they're both routed away from the radiator and the engine heat, the second one failing without even starting the engine but recycling the slide in and out twice a day for a week, it's hard for me to believe heat is the cause. Even the HWH tech told me the hoses are supposed to take at least 250 degrees F of heat when in direct contact with the heat; not with air between them.

My opinion - bad hoses, bad fittings, and HWH must have corrected it on the last set of hoses because it hasn't failed since for me or the person who bought my coach 1 1/2 years ago.

i think you're doing the right thing by having hoses made up by a hydraulic shop; that's what I would do if I still owned the coach and mine were failing again.
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:52 PM   #7
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Someone correct me but the vanity and bedroom slide have one cylinder which pushes those out/in. There is an equalizer in the battery compartment below the vanity slide I think. Since ours is newer and we have no hose issues (well that is another thing) maybe the older coaches have it a little different.

I do have some kind of leak in the HWH bay, I thought it was a bad end on a hose which Cummins fixed for me, but it still seems to be dripping onto the ground. My questions is, can I make sure all power is off, spray down the compartment with Simple Green, give it a chance to work, then hose out the compartment with clean water, and let it dry and then power up the coach to clean all the fluid off the bottom of the compartment. It is impossible to get into the area and clean up the residual fluid to determine if the leak is still present or I have a new one. Realize water and electricity don't mix, that is why power down coach, and let it sit for a day or so to dry out the compartment.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:03 AM   #8
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FWIW, Redlands Truck & RV used a high pressure sprayer on my HWH compartment with the power on in an effort to determine if anything was leaking. It wasn't and everything is still OK although not clean anymore.
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:29 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Rv'er View Post
I do have some kind of leak in the HWH bay, I thought it was a bad end on a hose which Cummins fixed for me, but it still seems to be dripping onto the ground. My questions is, can I make sure all power is off, spray down the compartment with Simple Green, give it a chance to work, then hose out the compartment with clean water, and let it dry and then power up the coach to clean all the fluid off the bottom of the compartment. It is impossible to get into the area and clean up the residual fluid to determine if the leak is still present or I have a new one. Realize water and electricity don't mix, that is why power down coach, and let it sit for a day or so to dry out the compartment.
I have a small leak in mine too. Sprayed the compartment with Gunk and hosed it out. Turns out it is the blanking screw in the end of the high pressure chamber that obviously isn't sealed completely. Impossible to tighten or remove so I have placed an oil absorbing pad underneath and just replace this every few months.
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Old 09-05-2013, 07:45 AM   #10
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I have replaced my motor before and was able to unbolt the pump from bottom and then could turn the whole conglomeration a quarter turn or so for more accessibility and complete cleaning.
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